Whats the worst thing to find on your lathe?
- Thread starter cmacclel
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gadget_lover
Flashaholic
That sucks big time. I'm so sorry to hear that.
I assume that welding the crack would deform the bed. Boy, I'd hate to have to crate that up to send it back.
Daniel
I assume that welding the crack would deform the bed. Boy, I'd hate to have to crate that up to send it back.
Daniel
I'm thinking the only feasable fix would be to drill the top of the crack to prevent it from growing then putting a mending plate on with a bunch of screws. I do not think there is alot of stress where it cracked maybe just a flaw in the casting? But then again if there was no stress then why did it crack?
Mac
Mirage_Man
Flashlight Enthusiast
Man, that sucks! Could it have happened during shipping and you just didn't see it until now?
Yes it could have been there all along but I didn't see it until now. The crack is probably 3/4 way down about 6 inches in front of the tailstock in the back.
Mac
LukeA
Flashlight Enthusiast
There's a steel girder bridge near where I live. Right after it was put in, it developed a large crack in the center span, very similar to what happened to your lathe. They jacked the span up and bolted on reinforcing plates. That particular bridge has been in continuous service for 30 years since then, so I assume that that strategy could work for you.
that sucks. I doubt it will effect anything on the lathe precision wise. It could grow bigger though.I wonder if Grizz will replace the lathe? They may if you make a big stink.
Have you been cutting something really big? :naughty:
Bummer!!
I had a friend who owned a restaurant and he had a piece of equipment, can't recall what it was, that was cast iron and he asked me to weld a piece that had broken off. I wasn't successful with a stick welder and I seem to recall that you need to braze cast iron?!?
I like your idea of a hole at the top of the crack and some plates bridging the crack.
:shrug:
I had a friend who owned a restaurant and he had a piece of equipment, can't recall what it was, that was cast iron and he asked me to weld a piece that had broken off. I wasn't successful with a stick welder and I seem to recall that you need to braze cast iron?!?
I like your idea of a hole at the top of the crack and some plates bridging the crack.
:shrug:
Drilling a hole at each end will stop the crack. You have to make sure you get the same angle of the crack. Welding might work, but the heat could warp the bed.
Grizzly has a one year warranty on their machines, not sure how they handle equipment that size. Shipping it is expensive.
( for some reason I get 4 boxes with an X in the middle instead of pictures )
Grizzly has a one year warranty on their machines, not sure how they handle equipment that size. Shipping it is expensive.
( for some reason I get 4 boxes with an X in the middle instead of pictures )
PEU
Flashlight Enthusiast
I sell maintenance welding alloys for a living, and let me tell you, welding poor quality cast iron is not a simple task (I hope this is not your case) it can be done of course, either by brazing or by using electrode, the later has the advantage of no need to pre heat to cherry red the part to be repaired.
Either method needs the crack to be stopped, and the suggestions given here are the only way: drill a hole at the end of the crack.
If you plan to weld it, 1st make a chamfer all along the crack, welding rod only penetrates 1/3 of its diameter into the base metal, so if the wall is thick a chamfer is a must.
Also for cast iron, using a welding pattern like this helps to avoid further cracks:
--(1)--> <--(4)-- <--(3)-- <--(5)-- <--(2)-- this is to distribute heat evenly, keep the pattern for each layer. (use blackboard chalk to draw the pattern into the piece)
[edit] forgot to add, if you decide to weld, try to avoid doing it vertical, do it flat, it will improve your chances of a good repair significantly... I know its a lathe and is heavy, but I just wanted to let you know.
Isn't it covered by the manufacturer warranty?
Good Luck!
Pablo
Either method needs the crack to be stopped, and the suggestions given here are the only way: drill a hole at the end of the crack.
If you plan to weld it, 1st make a chamfer all along the crack, welding rod only penetrates 1/3 of its diameter into the base metal, so if the wall is thick a chamfer is a must.
Also for cast iron, using a welding pattern like this helps to avoid further cracks:
--(1)--> <--(4)-- <--(3)-- <--(5)-- <--(2)-- this is to distribute heat evenly, keep the pattern for each layer. (use blackboard chalk to draw the pattern into the piece)
[edit] forgot to add, if you decide to weld, try to avoid doing it vertical, do it flat, it will improve your chances of a good repair significantly... I know its a lathe and is heavy, but I just wanted to let you know.
Isn't it covered by the manufacturer warranty?
Good Luck!
Pablo
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Yes it is covered under the MFG warranty. I called them an hour ago and of course the technical technicians will not be in until monday.
At this point I'm going to slap it back together without installing the DRO until I see what Grizzly us going to do. Either they replace the machine or give me a hefty return, the value of the lathe is probably less than half of what I paid right now. I'd prefer to get half my money back than to have to move this 1500lb beast back out.
Mac
At this point I'm going to slap it back together without installing the DRO until I see what Grizzly us going to do. Either they replace the machine or give me a hefty return, the value of the lathe is probably less than half of what I paid right now. I'd prefer to get half my money back than to have to move this 1500lb beast back out.
Mac
Last edited:
TranquillityBase
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- Jun 12, 2005
- Messages
- 3,742
I'd bet Grizz will take care of the problem...At least you have a working machine until they decide what to do.
Anglepoise
Flashlight Enthusiast
If Grizzly will not replace, do NOT attempt to weld or braze.
As others have advised, drill a small hole each end of the crack and apply a patch by drilling and tapping.
However before doing this, make sure the lathe bed is 'level' and not under any twist. Good articles on how to set up perfectly are online .
And check every once in a while to make sure' level' remains and hopefully you will have no problems.
Good luck.....
As others have advised, drill a small hole each end of the crack and apply a patch by drilling and tapping.
However before doing this, make sure the lathe bed is 'level' and not under any twist. Good articles on how to set up perfectly are online .
And check every once in a while to make sure' level' remains and hopefully you will have no problems.
Good luck.....
That is way bigger than my bolt! 
smokin_arkie
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2007
- Messages
- 15
Sorry to hear about the crack, that seems like something Grizzly will take care of though. Reading about them on a number of machine tool forums it seems their customer service is really good. I imagine it will be particularly good on this machine since it is a new design and it was spec'd specifically by the president of the US end of the company who is an avid competition shooter.
I'm in the local machining program and the tailstock housing on one of our Victor 1640 lathes cracked when someone tried to adjust it with it locked down to the lathe ways (a few years ago, before I started the program!). We discussed repairs the other day when talking about maintaining tools and he suggested that probably the only way was as has been suggested above: Drilling the ends of the cracks, tapping some holes, and putting a plate over it. However in this case since its under warranty I bet Grizzly will save you the trouble.
The G4003G looks like a great lathe in general (aside from your recent problems) have you been happy with it outside of the crack in the body? I was looking it for a potential addition to my shop as well.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm in the local machining program and the tailstock housing on one of our Victor 1640 lathes cracked when someone tried to adjust it with it locked down to the lathe ways (a few years ago, before I started the program!). We discussed repairs the other day when talking about maintaining tools and he suggested that probably the only way was as has been suggested above: Drilling the ends of the cracks, tapping some holes, and putting a plate over it. However in this case since its under warranty I bet Grizzly will save you the trouble.
The G4003G looks like a great lathe in general (aside from your recent problems) have you been happy with it outside of the crack in the body? I was looking it for a potential addition to my shop as well.
Good luck and keep us posted.
jch79
**Do Not Feed The Vegan**,
That is way bigger than my bolt!
It's the birthday cake I've always wanted: Chocolate Aluminum.
LED Zeppelin
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's not big, that's HUGE!
Lathe problems aside (hope you get it sorted), I can't wait to see what that mass of alum gets turned into.
Torque1st
Enlightened
Get the lathe replaced. It could be shipping or even installation damage. That crack will throw the tailstock out of alignment. Essentially there is a shallow "V" shape to the ways and they are twisted. The lathe will also vibrate easily during some cuts. The only way to repair it would be brazing and re-machining the ways.
Did you every fix your surface finish problems you mentioned in this thread:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138345
That crack could certainly contribute to problems with surface finish.
Bummer about the crack. Hope Grizzly does you right.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138345
That crack could certainly contribute to problems with surface finish.
Bummer about the crack. Hope Grizzly does you right.
