Mine fires up every time....I am using an FM 1909 bulb with IMR 18650 and McClicky...maybe it has someting to do with the AW switch as mentioned above...FWIW the light is not fickle...something is off...most likely the switch...
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Sold/Expired 3x18650 Megalennium-B
- Thread starter fivemega
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Fender
Newly Enlightened
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- Sep 11, 2009
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No, I've tried both the AW and the McClicky switches, and it won't light up with a direct connection between the rear battery plate and the body like it should. Tried several bulbs. I've never had this much trouble with any light I've ever owned, I do know what I'm doing.
Real sorry to hear you are having this much trouble...maybe FM can suggest the next step...
sterr11
Newly Enlightened
I am having some similar problems with mine, is inconcistant with the AW2600 cells, but works fine with Panasonic unprotected. I stretched out the AW switch spring a tiny bit, to put a bit more tension in the rear battery cover, and that seems to help, but the AW cells have to be in just the right way or no contact.
Fender
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I have a feeling it might be the 2600 batteries not being able to make contact, but I purchased them because it said it was compatible with them. At this point I'm either going to see about returning it or putting it on the marketplace.
Yes, it is compatible with AW's 2600 protected 18650 when used with WA1185
You can send it back for repair/replacement or refund as long as it's in same shape you received it.
cryhavok
Enlightened
I'm having some trouble with my Megallenium-b as well.
I think the problem is AW's new 2600 cells. The contacts on these cells are more recessed compared to other 18650 cells (including the IMR cells).
It seems the metal contacts of the light just aren't raised enough off the plastic holder to make a solid connection with the battery.
I have an AW softstart but I can't get it to work. Making a direct connection between the battery plate and the unannodized metal of the body still doesn't make the light fire with an 1185. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I'll have to just send the light back with batteries so fivemega can fix
I think the problem is AW's new 2600 cells. The contacts on these cells are more recessed compared to other 18650 cells (including the IMR cells).
It seems the metal contacts of the light just aren't raised enough off the plastic holder to make a solid connection with the battery.
I have an AW softstart but I can't get it to work. Making a direct connection between the battery plate and the unannodized metal of the body still doesn't make the light fire with an 1185. Any ideas? Otherwise I guess I'll have to just send the light back with batteries so fivemega can fix
sterr11
Newly Enlightened
Its not only the 2600, I'm having the same problem with both the 2600 and IMR. It is random however, most of the time it works fine, but other times, not at all or flashes on for a fraction of a second and goes off. It only happens when I change batteries. I can get it to work again by moving the batteries and the bulb around. Could the problem possibly be the bulb socket? The 1185 bulb is very loose in the non-setscrew side. Could there be some oxidation or something else in the socket occasionally preventing continuity?
cryhavok
Enlightened
Did some more testing and finally got the light to work...kind of.
I had to use 3 magnets to make contact between the battery plate and the back of the batteries.
The only way I could get the bulb to work is by not tightening the set screw on the socket. Now by tightening the set screw I'm talking about the minimal amount of pressure once resistance is felt...I'm not cranking that little screw.
With the bulb on, if I try to turn the set screw to lock the bulb, as soon as I hit resistance the bulb goes out. If I loosen the screw, the bulb will turn back on after I press the switch. This behavior happens every time. Perhaps there is a short somewhere? IDK :shrug:
Anyone else experiencing this?
I had to use 3 magnets to make contact between the battery plate and the back of the batteries.
The only way I could get the bulb to work is by not tightening the set screw on the socket. Now by tightening the set screw I'm talking about the minimal amount of pressure once resistance is felt...I'm not cranking that little screw.
With the bulb on, if I try to turn the set screw to lock the bulb, as soon as I hit resistance the bulb goes out. If I loosen the screw, the bulb will turn back on after I press the switch. This behavior happens every time. Perhaps there is a short somewhere? IDK :shrug:
Anyone else experiencing this?
Got my 2nd Megalennium-B in today and am having the same problems trying to get and keep this light working. (#1 light I first purchased is working fine)
With this second light (AW soft-start), I tried the 3 x IMR batteries and the FM1909 bulb and nothing happened. Then tried the 3 x AW 18650 2600 batteries and the WA1185 bulb. Again, nothing came on. I did remove the bulb set screw and used compressed air to somewhat clean out the socket thinking maybe some lubricant or anno was down in the holes. I put everything back together and spread the pins out a little bit on the bulbs before insertion. I then tightened the bulb down with a little firmer force and waaa laaa the light came to life. I works fine now with either set up...
Maybe Fivemega can give us a little more guidance on this matter of what the problem might be...?
Hope this helps for you all.......
iflyjts :thumbsup:
lovecpf
With this second light (AW soft-start), I tried the 3 x IMR batteries and the FM1909 bulb and nothing happened. Then tried the 3 x AW 18650 2600 batteries and the WA1185 bulb. Again, nothing came on. I did remove the bulb set screw and used compressed air to somewhat clean out the socket thinking maybe some lubricant or anno was down in the holes. I put everything back together and spread the pins out a little bit on the bulbs before insertion. I then tightened the bulb down with a little firmer force and waaa laaa the light came to life. I works fine now with either set up...
Maybe Fivemega can give us a little more guidance on this matter of what the problem might be...?
Hope this helps for you all.......
iflyjts :thumbsup:
lovecpf
Getting correct voltage at tail side proofs that batteries installed correctly and have contact. Also bulb pins have contact and fillament is OK. All it needs is complete the circuit at negative connector and body edge at tail side.
This can NOT be true because my test proofs otherwise.
No matter how many bulb you replaced. Problem was somewhere else.
I wish it was so.
I received the light and tried to check what the problem is that you talking about.
Inserted WA1185 and 3 protected 18650 (2.6) then put the tail cap noticing (feeling) push the cell too much.
Removed tail cap and by touching switch spring, realized retaining ring is totally loose.
Tighten it up and light works perfectly.
I am sure I didn't send it that way because:
It is unfortunate that light was returned from Canada for simple problem. However, refund already issued.
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Fender
Newly Enlightened
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You can sit there and try to tell me that there is nothing wrong with it, but my claims are reinforced by the fact that 2 other users after me reported the same problem. There's no way I made it up only to have two strangers say the same thing afterwards. 25% of the people that have purchased them so far reporting this problem most likely means that THEY ACTUALLY EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM. I hope you do not insult their intelligence by telling them there is nothing wrong with their lights also.
And for the record, the reason the mcclicky switch wasn't in tight was because I replaced the AW switch with it for shipping. It's an irrelevant issue though, since it wouldn't light by connecting the end of the battery plate to the body to complete the circuit.
If you're so confident that there is nothing wrong with the light, are you going to sell it to someone else? I bet not in it's current condition. If you do, then you better hope they don't have the same problem. I'm betting you're not willing to take that chance.
I thank you for refunding my money, I can now give it to a manufacturer that won't tell me I'm wrong when I experience a problem. This is the first poor experience I've had both here and at CPFMP. I'm also sorry that you're insulted that I don't think your product is perfect. My sample certainly wasn't. Have a nice day.
And for the record, the reason the mcclicky switch wasn't in tight was because I replaced the AW switch with it for shipping. It's an irrelevant issue though, since it wouldn't light by connecting the end of the battery plate to the body to complete the circuit.
If you're so confident that there is nothing wrong with the light, are you going to sell it to someone else? I bet not in it's current condition. If you do, then you better hope they don't have the same problem. I'm betting you're not willing to take that chance.
I thank you for refunding my money, I can now give it to a manufacturer that won't tell me I'm wrong when I experience a problem. This is the first poor experience I've had both here and at CPFMP. I'm also sorry that you're insulted that I don't think your product is perfect. My sample certainly wasn't. Have a nice day.
one2tim
Enlightened
im also have problems with the megalennium-b with 1909 bulp i got from oveready. The light only works sometimes...very annoying for a light that cost me 450$. Some help would be appreciated.
If you are using AW's soft start switch, use very tiny copper wire braid between collar and switch housing and make sure after tightening brass collar into tail cap, switch housing does not have free movement.
Also slightly bending bulb pins will make better electrical contacts.
In following picture, bulb pin bendings are exedurated for learning purpose and shows how to do that but in real world, you will be more easy and bend them slightly.
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Could you post a pic of that?
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
I find that using a little solder on the switch helps as well and secures the two pieces together. Push the inside piece all the way in and use a hot iron to quickly apply solder at 3-4 points around the perimeter. Smooth the solder down to be flush with the top.
stuffgeek
Newly Enlightened
are heads in matching color still available?
