If you get the Quark, you will be happier with the deep carry clip. I also EDC a QPA-X lego when I'm not carrying my Copperhead, and I fill it with a 14500. The beefier Quark handles the heat from a 14500 much better than the D25a, but it is noticeably larger in the pocket. Since I am now...
I confirm that I have gianetics funds in hand, so make your deal with him and I'll send the light directly to you with the accessories that you choose. No problem here, light guaranteed by me.
Thanks.
UPDATE: I am out of the country until the 18th. the stainless is kicking my butt - the jig I made was hopelessly outclassed by the clips and I'll have to fabricate some upgraded hinges when I get back. In the meantime, this is a good test of the clip ans I am wearing it every day/night in the...
Update: All outstanding orders are completed, and paid orders are shipped. I am out of the country until the 18th, but can arrange shipping while I am away.
The interface is in the head, so you can use any tail with the QTA and still get the tactical interface, except of course you lose momentary with the reverse clicky. I tend to use the QPA with the QTA tailcap because I like the forward clicky and don't care about tailstanding much!
No, it's not crazy - we mod cheap torches all the time. Its fun! Just realize that it is not the most cost effective... I don't recognize the LED on the left, but the one on the right is a generic version of the Seoul p4. Regular 3v LED, so any of the regular driver boards for CREE or...
If you post a photo of your LED we can identify it, but it is probably a common one that will work with any of the popular drivers. The only difference is how much power to give them and how many batteries are in the light. For a small light I would suggest less than 1,000 ma maximum power...
I can't see you images where I am, but with the inexpensive lights it is almost always the driver board, though the switches can also go out of adjustment. Clean and check the mechanical parts, then I'd start looking for a new driver. kaidomain, dealextreme, and fasttech are some of the...
That would be the maximum power draw on high. More draw = more lumens = more heat = less runtime, so you can choose what you need. I personally find about 1400 to be a good compromise in that size light.
Back in the day, weren't "white" led fixtures available that used a mixture of colored emitters, and no phosphors? I would think that those would produce no UV. I'm just going on vague recollection here...
Short answer - they are lying. 1k lumens OTF is at least a 3.5a draw, so about an hour from the best 18650, assuming it can stand the heat, which it won't anyway. You can't get around physics.