Thanks all,
I ended up going with the skilhunt h04r in 400K high CRI (40 USD shipped). The high CRI pulled me in more than the lower price of the Sofirn. I thought maybe the h04 might have a less tight hot spot, I don't want wide spill but I also like a less well defined spot. I'd rather...
I used to have a Zebra light (that I got for cheap) years ago, but lost it. Since then I've wanted something to replace it but always stopped at the cost and things not quite checking all the boxes. I was looking around recently and found the skilhunt H04R (or F) with high CRI that seems to...
wire in series (+ to -, + to -, etc) and they will each get 1500mA. in parallel (all + together and all - together) and they will split the 1500 to each get 375. remember that your voltage input must be at lest 3 volts higher than the LED string.
I'm considering building a light that would run on 6 lithiums in series (and have maybe 2 parallel strings depending on space/cost). I'd like the batteries to be able to be semi-permanently installed and have a usb/some VDC/120VAC powered charger built into the light. I know there are single...
COB allows you to pack more light/heat/power in a smaller area. That's pretty much it.
If you need to pack that amount of light in a small emitting area then use COB (but make sure this small little area gets the heat pulled away). If you want to make a larger fixture or have more emitting...
How many units do you need? (main stumbling block)
How many lumens do you want/need? (and what lumens per watt)
Do you need a light distribution of any specific kind? (percentages at certain angles/qualifies for certain certifications/DLC)
How long does it need to last (waranty)?
Does CRI...
By your post I had assumed the machine had a 5 volt supply that fed the existing LED? with a buck driver (or a 7135 based unit that was well heat sinked) you could likly just use the existing 5 volt line since most power LEDs take in the 3 to 3.5 volt area
My initial thoughts:
LED: nichia 219. they can have a cri of 92+ and nice colour (4500k? 5000k?)
Driver: since it supplies 5 volts you could send that 5v to a 7135 driver that woudl in turn drive the LED. depending on which driver you sued you coudl get whatever current you needed and maybe...
7200 lumens from 0.7amps at 54 volts? thats only 37.8 watts. that means you getting 190 lumens per watt. or maybe you ment each side was going to be fed 700mA?
direct drive: when you wire the LED directly to the battery (with a switch in there too fo course). tends to drive the LEd very hard (lots of current) depending on how much the battery(s) can source.
why do some drivers whine in low: this is common in 7135 based drivers (can happen in others...
nope.
For the LED I'd use an XM-L2 and I'd also go with a driver such as the 7135 amc based 2800mA (from anywhere with flashlight drivers; really, anywhere) or up gunned 3040mA (from illumination supply [or other?] if they end the back order status?).
Other than the above, that guide you...
You can do whatever you want!
So by t6 I assume you mean cree XM-L of the brightness bin 'T6'.
Batteries change voltage as then drain. Those LEDs run on a voltage of around 3 volts so that's around 12 volts for 4 of them. But if you runt hem a little hot, like 3.4 volts then you're suddenly...
I think I'd agree with them somewhat. To make glasses I think you'd need a press and a pattern for the rims. I suppose you could cut it from a sheet by hand and bend by hand but that's a lot of work and requires bending and filing down to shape them. I suppose that isn't too technical it just...
Re: Noob cheap flashlight questions
You could try some copper tape. It is on back order at illumination supply and I couldn't find any on the cheap Chinese sites I checked.