canister wet connections

[Codiak]

Has anyone identified or implemented a cheap and reliable wet connection?
seacon's wet-mates are a bit on the expensive side.

Not sure if RCA jacks would be a good cheap hack so I'm looking for ideas.
For that matter how about standard dean connectors....

 

[Packhorse]

Regardless of what connector type you have you want something that is corrosion resistant.
While you can get gold plated RCA's they will not last long. Same thing with Dean's.

To be honest I dont think there is a cheap AND reliable option.

 

[jspeybro]

This may help:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?268436-Waterproof-cable-connector

 

[betti154]

Cheapest source I've found for true eo stuff is dive-xtras.com, but that not what I call cheap.

Ds

 

[350xfire]

Nope. Cheapest I have found are in the $150 range.

 

[DIWdiver]

When the connectors are wet and voltage is present, especially if the water is salt water, there must not be a path from one conductor to the other through the water. If such a path exists, then electrolysis will erode one of the terminals very rapidly, even if they are gold plated. Good wet connectors will provide a complete barrier between the conductors. That's hard to do, which is why the connectors are large and expensive. RCA connectors probably wouldn't last through the first dive in salt water.

 

[Codiak]

So while 100 dollars may be the normal cost, it's just not in the cards since I want 4 pairs.

What I have noticed all wet connects require the power disengaged but since I put the on/switch on the light head close to the driver it's not going to work for me.

So no wet connect, but perhaps a reasonablely waterproof quick connect.
Found this today http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptoronepairtwopinslockableconnectorwith8coilcord.aspx

 

[lucca brassi]

Standard euro connector with washer inside works fine for me - no problems . As DIWdiver said

there must not be a path from one conductor to the other through the water.

But you still to have switch on powerside (switching with powersource off )

Powercord must have moulded connectors in plastic on both sides !

 

[Codiak]

Standard euro connector with washer inside works fine for me - no problems . As DIWdiver said But you still to have switch on powerside (switching with powersource off )

Powercord must have moulded connectors in plastic on both sides !

So I hadn't considered this type of connector... other than being a bit bulky... hmm
The powersource off is just a usage issue.

But what do you mean about a washer inside?

 

[DIWdiver]

So while 100 dollars may be the normal cost, it's just not in the cards since I want 4 pairs.

What I have noticed all wet connects require the power disengaged but since I put the on/switch on the light head close to the driver it's not going to work for me.

So no wet connect, but perhaps a reasonablely waterproof quick connect.
Found this today http://www.batteryspace.com/connectoradaptoronepairtwopinslockableconnectorwith8coilcord.aspx

The reason they require the power off is so you don't damage the plating on the connecting surfaces while swapping the connections. If you had good heavy contacts and were willing to accept a little damage, it might be reasonable to do anyway.

That one from batteryspace looks pretty good, 16 ga is pretty heavy. Put on your flame suit if you don't plan to get rid of that coiled cord though!

One way to hot swap underwater would be to have two separate connectors. Move one first, then the other, and you never have both exposed to the water. Or with a three-pin connector it should be possible to design a very simple automatic disconnect that could be put in your canister, which would cut the power when you unplug. If there were some interest in half a dozen, I could probably even build a small module that would sell for $10-15.

Don

 

[Codiak]

Put on your flame suit if you don't plan to get rid of that coiled cord though!

The only reason I have not ordered these yet is I'd rather not have to splice the line.

 

[lucca brassi]

So I hadn't considered this type of connector... other than being a bit bulky...

Agree with you , that was just temporary solution for experiments. Good is that connectors are far apart , bushing is also sinked for 4mm , and pins are strong and inside made from brass which made good corrosion resistance. and you have also Y splitters all moulded in plastics like :

but this is DIY stuff not PRO

But what do you mean about a washer inside?

Just thin piece of rubber in shape of trapezoid hole which is sliped over three pins on MALE SIDE (headlamp side ). I have secured cable that way that I have clamped doubleender between goodman handle and after FEEMALE canister (canister side ) . Male connector and cable were short about 20cm.

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If taking EO classic cord be sure to take that with thicker pin ( exist two types; one with thiner pin (lower current) and other with thicker pin (stronger current))