Disassembling chinese XML light

[hawgorn]

Hello,
I bought a chinese XML dive light like this and wanted to check the condition of the O-rings.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/hq0AAMXQfvlSmEUi/$_12.JPG

Image tags deleted from Hot Linked image - Norm

The rear O-rings were crap, no surprise there. But for the life of me I can't get the head open. Any clues? more force aka power, use heat? Do I need to go in order (bezel, then the head) or what. I think it must come apart at the mag switch junction, except for the bezel I don't see any other point of access.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[välineurheilija]

I have no idea but dont heat the magnetic switch because heat is bad for magnets :welcome:Oops join year 2004

 

[lucca brassi]

maybe similar to that http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/re...cshine-mj-876-878-dive-light-bit-mj-810e.html

 

[Packhorse]

Often the treads are glued with LocTite. Not sure about this light though.
Answer is heat and brute force.

 

[DIWdiver]

Yeah, I had a similar light I couldn't get apart, even with a strap wrench. I was worried about crushing the head. I ended up boring a hole in a wooden board just the size of the head, and gluing the head into the board with epoxy. Only then, using the board like a wrench, was I able to comfortably apply enough torque to unscrew the head.

I cleaned up by splitting the board and getting most of it off, then soaking in isopropyl alcohol. This softened the epoxy enough that it could be easily removed. Be aware, if the epoxy is fully cured, IPA won't soften it very well and you might have to use acetone, or a jackhammer. I used 5-minute epoxy and let it cure a few hours. If I do it again, I won't wait more than 90 minutes. I would not recommend getting epoxy in any threads, as it would be very difficult to clean up.

 

[Ninox_]

Hello,
I bought a chinese XML dive light like this and wanted to check the condition of the O-rings.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/hq0AAMXQfvlSmEUi/$_12.JPG

Image tags deleted from Hot Linked image - Norm

Hi Hawgorn,
Are you able to comment on the output, regulation, runtime and waterproofness of this light?
Did you ever get the head off or did you let that sleeping dog lie?

If you did get the light apart at the magnetic switch, how well protected was the magnet?

 

[hawgorn]

Hi Ninox, sorry for a late reply, I haven't visited CPF for a while.

Nope, never did get the head open. I did get the light down to 20-25m on several dives and it survived as far as waterproofness goes. But it started to flicker maybe on the second or third dive and I had to constantly fiddle with the switch. In the end I had to change to my backup, the yellow plastic Q5 with magnetic lever switch and 4xAA's. It worked flawlessly.

I'm not sure where problem was/is, and don't plan to investigate or to dive with it again. It still works though - on topside, that is

Edit: compared to WF-502B the hotspot is brighter and tighter. It pulls >2.5A on high and ~1A on medium from protected 3000mAh Keepower battery. Can't comment on regulation or runtime.