Looking for a light to stand up to salt

bustedrudder

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Mar 14, 2021
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I do expedition kayak races. Three hundred miles from Tampa to Key Largo. It is a grave yard for all things electronics (gps/radio/lights). I carry 2 Zebralight headlamps (1-AA 1-18650) and a Fenix LD30.

I love everything about the Fenix LD30. The size, the power and the dimming. I keep it on a lanyard in my PFD next to my PLB should things go south in the gulf of Mexico as a signal device.

It went 5 days in my PFD which means salt spray and damp 24/7. It still works but the button that steps through the dimming is now very stiff. Fenix is repairing, their support is amazing but I'm wondering if an all plastic light is better suited. There is a bit of oxidation around the copper colored ring the button resides in. Dissimilar metals and salt are not good bed fellows.

Anyone know of 18650 light the size of an LD30 that can live in salt water? I can forego dimming.
Thanks!
 

nbp

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Olumin

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I dont see how anodized aluminium is a problem in saltwater, any o-ringed twist activated flashlight should do.

Fraz Labs flashlights are twistys & offer continuous dimming. They take any size li-ion you want depending on the model. They are just about impervious & a far more budget friendly alternative to full-ti lights like the mentioned McGizmo.
 

nbp

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I dont see how anodized aluminium is a problem in saltwater, any o-ringed twist activated flashlight should do.

Fraz Labs flashlights are twistys & offer continuous dimming. They take any size li-ion you want depending on the model. They are just about impervious & a far more budget friendly alternative to full-ti lights like the mentioned McGizmo.

I think you hit on a key point. A twisty light while less "convenient" does eliminate the button switch which is definitely the weak point when it comes to water ingress on most lights. Fraz lights are also super bombproof as mentioned. Aluminum does not like salt but if they are well anodized including the threads, it probably will hold up well enough. Ti however, will shake off nearly anything even after lengthy exposure.
 

LEDphile

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Aluminum fares poorly in salt water, and the protection provided by anodizing and coatings is only as good as the coating. And the moment you get any damage to the coating, it's essentially game over. Other metals (the previously mentioned titanium, some stainless steels, some copper alloys) fare better, but there's always the risk of galvanic corrosion.


if you don't mind trading UV susceptibility for corrosion resistance, plastics tend to do better than metals in salt water environments. I'd take a look at the Streamlight Polytac X (I'd remove the clip, and you'll lose the turbo mode from the LD30).
 

flashflood

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Ya titanium is impervious to just about everything.
Yes. Salt will eventually eat both aluminum and stainless steel. The one thing to keep in mind about titanium is that is has terrible thermal conductivity -- about 1/10 that of aluminum. I would not drive a Ti light too hard or too long.
 

bustedrudder

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I dont see how anodized aluminium is a problem in saltwater, any o-ringed twist activated flashlight should do.

Fraz Labs flashlights are twistys & offer continuous dimming. They take any size li-ion you want depending on the model. They are just about impervious & a far more budget friendly alternative to full-ti lights like the mentioned McGizmo.
Agree, my Zebra lights have been in use years in salt. The problem I have with the Fenix is the smaller button to adjust levels. the larger on/off (like the Zebra) are fine.
 

bustedrudder

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If you don't mind paying a little more, full titanium is the way to go. McGizmo, one of our most respected builders here, makes fantastic Ti lights. He lives in Hawaii and regularly uses his lights in and around the ocean. Many of his pictures feature his lights snorkeling. The AquaRam and AquaMule were specifically designed to be hit with ocean water regularly.

 

bustedrudder

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Aluminum fares poorly in salt water, and the protection provided by anodizing and coatings is only as good as the coating. And the moment you get any damage to the coating, it's essentially game over. Other metals (the previously mentioned titanium, some stainless steels, some copper alloys) fare better, but there's always the risk of galvanic corrosion.


if you don't mind trading UV susceptibility for corrosion resistance, plastics tend to do better than metals in salt water environments. I'd take a look at the Streamlight Polytac X (I'd remove the clip, and you'll lose the turbo mode from the LD30).
I will check that one out:)
 

808vudoo

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Jun 6, 2018
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If you can live with a 16650 battery option the Surefire G2 series offers lots of options with interchangeable P60 drop-ins. I use these extensively in shore line conditions and they have been super reliable and bullet proof to the elements.👊👊🤙
7AD227BB-C6D0-4F8C-97C2-2BCF7BC832EB.jpeg
 

speckacuda

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I dont see how anodized aluminium is a problem in saltwater, any o-ringed twist activated flashlight should do.

Fraz Labs flashlights are twistys & offer continuous dimming. They take any size li-ion you want depending on the model. They are just about impervious & a far more budget friendly alternative to full-ti lights like the mentioned McGizmo.
Aww, thanks so much for the mention!!! We also have a lifetime warranty, and will be listing more brass models in the next few days...
 
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