M4 / AR-15 carbine tactical light

MMA10mm

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I've used the search function and read many threads - some useful, but I still feel like I'm groping around, so I'm looking for a recommendation AND suggestion.

First, the rifle:
10.5" barrel 300 Blackout with Trijicon Reflex II (12.5 MOA orange triangle reticle).

This rifle may be used both for inside and outside. It is a personally-owned rifle, but used on duty as well. In personal use, this will be used on the property for protecting livestock from predators or checking why motion lights go on around the barn/backyard. In duty use, this will be used for perimeter duty or Active-shooter responses. I would say 85% or more of the time will be outdoors and 15% or less indoors. Duty load is Barnes TTSX Barrier Blind, and I expect all shooting use will be 150yds max, mostly much less.

That said, I've read TEEJ's and others' good points about the difference between seeing something, and identifying who/what it is, what they're doing/holding, and identifying a threat or not, so having a beam that reaches 100-150 yards may not illuminate enough for the level of detail I may need.

I've tried searching here at cpf and google, and I can't find a site or chart which compares different lights for their candella, lumens, spill, etc. Does such exist?

I've looked at Elzetta, Malkoff, and Armytek, but I'm struggling with comparing them. Can't find candella for all of them. I'm thinking the Armytek Predator (non-Pro), ElZetta B133, or Malkoff Hounddog (sold out, unfortunately). These all seem to be around 650 lumens. No idea on candella.



Here's my answers to the stickied thread recommended questions/answers:

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?
____This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)
____Up to $100 to $200.


3) Format:
____I want a mounted light (for a rifle)


4) Size:
____SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).


5) Emitter/Light source:
____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)


6) Manufacturer:
____I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).
All of these are acceptable, as long as not too much electronics knowledge is required.


7) What power source do you want to use?
____I've been really impressed with the power, longevity and compactness of my SureFire E2L and its 2xCR123 sized cells. I'd like the weapon light to be about 1" diameter and able to use "disposable" CR123s, but I've been reading about the 18650s here at cpf, and they sound impressive, but I've never used them and know too little about them. Are they rechargeable only? Can 2xCR123s be interchanged with 18650, or must I find RCR123s? I'm notagainst rechargeable, but the long between-use time makes me inclined to stick with lithiums.


7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
Either of these is acceptable.



8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.

All of the above apply. I'm not sure about burst mode. I'd like to hear others opinions about it.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.
____Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.
(I think these three cover the spectrum. As I mention below, this needs some diffused, medium-power ability for indoor searches - or navigating through terrain while working a perimeter - as well as long, powerful throw of about 150 yards.)

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150-200 yards (I am searching from a helicopter)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).
____ This is important insofar as a building search or perimeter work is usually extended periods, but the light is only on a fraction of that time.


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I would consider a remote switch (I've read a lot of negative comments about tape switches on rifles, but if thiere are compelling reasons to look at one, I'm not against them.)


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.
____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle, but it would be nice to have an indoor search light level (~100 lumens and diffused) plus a strong thrower mode for the outdoor requirements. I'm thinking a single-level, high-power thrower could work by adding a diffuser attachment, though...


14)Material/Finish/Coating
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).


15) Water resistance
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)


16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
(I'd say all of these are possibilities.)


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

Diffuser?
I would prefer no Crenulated bezel
This will be a dedicated weapon light, so no QR mount is needed. I rather like the Elzetta Picatinny rail mount, but open to other ideas.
As a rifle light, I presume it needs the battery sprung at both ends and a blast and recoil-resistent LED set-up.
 

TEEJ

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If you want to translate the light's claimed/ANSI range into a cd, you can convert "Meters of Throw" into cd, by simply taking HALF of the claimed meters of throw, and then squaring it, to get the cd.

The ANSI spec and the claimed numbers are all based upon getting to 0.25 lux on the target at that range.

So, for the XPG2 Armytec Predator for example, for the maximum throw, they claim 400 meters.

Take 400 meters, cut it in half to 200, and then square it, and you get 40,000 cd.


Once you have the cd, you can then get the lux on target for any range.

As we know you want the useful range to be 150 M, and we know you want to protect livestock from predators and perimeter patrol, etc, that means you will be attempting to resolve low contrast targets (Likely to be camouflaged or otherwise better at blending into the background) at up to 150 meters.

The useful lux on target would therefore be 15 - 30 lux, which is typically beyond the output of a small light at that range.

To GET 30 lux on a target 150 M away, you'd need a ~ 700,000 cd light.

To get 15 lux at that range you'd need a ~ 337,000 cd light.


The above ranges are not typically available (yet) off the shelf 1" barrel weapon lights.


Working backwards, at ~ 150 meters, you could typically do a silhouette shot on a paper target at ~ 0.3 - 1 lux, depending upon your night vision. At 1 - 5 lux, again, depending on your vision, you might be able to make out the paper target's features.

0.3 lux is only a little higher than the ANSI 0.25 lux, so if your "predators" are wearing white shirts for example, you could (barely) see them at that 0.3 lux range....if against a dark background. If the pred's have eye shine, you can pick them out at much greater distances.


After that, its all a question of degree: how much contrast are you going to need to resolve them from the background....and the less contrast, the more lux it will take to resolve them.

If you go for being able to say see a coyote sized target on grass at that range, ~ 5 lux might work if its moving. (If its still, and laying down, its all about its shade vs the grass's, if it looks at you, and you can see the eyes reflecting back at you, etc)


5 lux at 150 meters requires ~ 113k cd.

To flip it around, 5 lux at 150 meters would require a light CLAIMING a ~ 672 meter ANSI range.


(Half of 672 = 336, and 336 squared = ~ 113k)


The other thing to consider for your scenario is the beam width. It sounds like you want a floody beam, to see as much as possible at one time. Its VERY hard to catch someone out there if they can see your beam sweeping about looking for targets, and just duck when its coming towards them, etc. (Picture about every night time prison break movie scene ever made, etc...)




You might need a handheld large light to resolve long distance low contrast targets, larger than one that is practical for indoor close range weapon mounting. That would mean you could go with a shorter range light for mounting and indoor use, and use the HH light for spotting. Once the target is FOUND, the lower output light can often be used to aim.

Plan C is to go to Vinh's sub-forum, and talk to him about a custom light. He's a shooter, and makes custom weapon lights among other things. He can soup up ordinary off the shelf (For CPF at least) flashlights, add heat sinking, larger wires with better solder jobs and new springs, etc, pot the electronics and toughen up the switches, amp up the amperage to optimize throw and/or output, etc. He does all this far cheaper than you'd think.


So, in your context, what sounds like your need?
 

MMA10mm

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First, thank you for such a focused and educational reply. That helped a LOT.

Second, it sounds like I want/expect too much: very powerful long-range beam plus medium power (indoor appropriate) beam, all in a small, light package. I need to realistically adjust my expectations.


In my context, what is my need?

I may have to think harder on that awhile. 85% or more of the use will be outdoors, but I can't ignore the indoor use. It almost sounds like I need 2 lights. Maybe mount each light on a QD mount? Leave the bright light mounted most of the time, but have the medium-power one in my equipment bag to mount in the high-output one's place when I work dayshift (when only need for a light is building searches)?

Being a light devotee, getting a Vihn-modded light is a very attractive idea. (or would it be a temptation? :) )

Do you think going to a 3x123 1" tube light, such as an Elzetta Charlie model, modded with Vihn's upgrades would get me anywhere close to 4-5 lux (100k cd), or am I getting delusional again?

I'm straining for compactness and lightweight, but that does zero good if I can't see a threat or find a target. So, what would you recommend, regardless of my weight/dimension goals?
 

dss_777

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Oct 31, 2004
Messages
900
Tactical or EAG click-switch P2X or P3X Fury. Can't have too much light. Really. Even then, I think 150 yds is a tough job for any weapon light to do well, especially if you're needing to identify and possibly perforate humans.

Almost as important is where to put it on an SBR. Not much rail-estate...

worth a trip over to lightfighter.net - read through the AAR and low light forums.
 

MMA10mm

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Thanks dss. I am a SureFire fan. The P3X looks awesome. Pretty close to fitting the bill. I've looked around lightfighter and must say I prefer the format here at cpf much better. I find the organization at lightfighter very difficult to navigate. I'll look again tonight at work after reports are caught up, if calls cooperate.

I've also been thinking about spill/flood of the light. Teej makes an excellent point. All the lights I've used so far have been hand-held and have plenty of spill. (Mag-Charger -yes, I'm old-, Sure-Fire 8X [still issue, but we're struggling finding batteries], & my EDC: Sure-Fire E2L) I've been lurking here and find some of the beamshots of the throwers to be stunning. I had no idea lights could restrict spill so much. This brings Teej's point about a tight throwers beam sweep being easy to hide from.

On a quick look-around, I found the ArmyTek Viking with 1010 lm over at HKE. Even though it is ~1000 lm vs. The Predator's rated 670 lm, it has a rated throw of only 330 (was it m or yds?), while the Predator has a 350-400. I assume the extra lm of the Viking are expended illuminating a greater area, and therefore the Viking is more of a floody light? Sounds better tactically, but still lacking the distance.

Also been thinking about use and Teej's points about a handheld. While outdoors searching my property, the weaponlight will likely be primary, but securing a perimeter on duty, it is bad form to be pointing one's rifle at non-threats...

More pondering, and of course, I would appreciate more input!
 

precisionworks

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Tactical or EAG click-switch P2X or P3X Fury.
+1 on either the single stage (EAG-BCM) P2X or P3X with click switch. Both are popular with hard users & both are favorites for WML. Any mount that accepts a 1" tube is fine & there are lots of them, LaRue being one of the most popular.

I think 150 yds is a tough job for any weapon light to do well, especially if you're needing to identify and possibly perforate humans.
Totally agree. Under ideal conditions (clear, no smoke, no haze, no mist, high contrast between target & background & fresh batteries) 150 is possible. The rest of the time 100 yds is a bunch, even with the P3X. Also depends on your visual acuity & the optic.
 

dss_777

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Thanks dss. I am a SureFire fan. The P3X looks awesome. Pretty close to fitting the bill. I've looked around lightfighter and must say I prefer the format here at cpf much better. I find the organization at lightfighter very difficult to navigate. I'll look again tonight at work after reports are caught up, if calls cooperate.

I've also been thinking about spill/flood of the light. Teej makes an excellent point. All the lights I've used so far have been hand-held and have plenty of spill. (Mag-Charger -yes, I'm old-, Sure-Fire 8X [still issue, but we're struggling finding batteries], & my EDC: Sure-Fire E2L) I've been lurking here and find some of the beamshots of the throwers to be stunning. I had no idea lights could restrict spill so much. This brings Teej's point about a tight throwers beam sweep being easy to hide from.

On a quick look-around, I found the ArmyTek Viking with 1010 lm over at HKE. Even though it is ~1000 lm vs. The Predator's rated 670 lm, it has a rated throw of only 330 (was it m or yds?), while the Predator has a 350-400. I assume the extra lm of the Viking are expended illuminating a greater area, and therefore the Viking is more of a floody light? Sounds better tactically, but still lacking the distance.

Also been thinking about use and Teej's points about a handheld. While outdoors searching my property, the weaponlight will likely be primary, but securing a perimeter on duty, it is bad form to be pointing one's rifle at non-threats...

More pondering, and of course, I would appreciate more input!


IMO, the Surefire Fury's are the true value leader for once. Not something you can usually say about Surefire lights. A lot of bang for the buck (Ha!), compared to the Scoutlights that cost 2-3X as much for essentially the same functionality. Also, consider reliability- extremely important in a WML, and info on that in the real world is harder to find for the non-Surefire branded lights.

Target ID demands a good combination of spill and throw. Too narrow of a beam is a problem. FWIW, the Fury can work quite well as a hand-held from what I'm told. :devil: Get two- still ahead of the Scout cost-wise. ;)

IMHO, the signal/noise ratio at Lightfighter is extremely high, and worth the effort to access the high density of solid, real-world info. Best to start with a focus just on the AAR and Low Light sub-forums.

Technical specs don't tell you the whole story compared to hearing what other professionals are using. Does your dept. have a WML policy and training? That will factor in to any decision you make,

Cheers!
 

m4a1usr

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It almost sounds like you need 2 different lights. Getting enough light out to 150 yards is going to take a larger reflector (greater than a P60/D26 reflector) so you almost have to move up to something in the 40mm or larger range. A deep 50mm would certainly work but it does make for a huge diameter head. An M952 would be great out to 50 or 75 yards driving a XPG at a couple amps. Problem is heat if used for extended times. A M962 with a 37mm reflector will reach out to 150 yards with an XML in a smooth reflector. I've tested mine at the range a few times and I can put a good light on the 200 yard targets no problem. But the M962 is longer and larger diameter. And your SBR would look pretty odd with that monstrosity hanging off a RAS.
 

Grizzman

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While we wait for update maximum range specification, I'll give some feedback on two of the original proposed solutions. I've got a cool Hound Dog in addition to Elzetta High Output heads (Bravo and Charlie).

My last 100 yard test had the Hound Dog delivering under 3 lux on target. The Charlie delivered barely over 1.5. The Bravo barely topped 1 lux. My E2DL Ultra did surprisintly well considering its size, with a result of a hair under 2 lux.

With an non-magnified optic and illuminated reticle, I consider 5 lux on target as a minimum requirement. As has been stated, a light that's effective at 100 plus yards is not going to be very appropriate for clearing a house.

My solution to this dual-use scenario is the modular Malkoff system. Mounted to my 7.62 NATO AR is an MD3 body with an M91A drop-in in an MD2 head. This high output head can be replaced with any of my other M61 equipped MD2 heads. The Hound Dog head sits on top of the guns safe.

A dual light solution in LaRue QD mounts will take a few fewer seconds to perform a swap, but will likely cost considerably more.
I've wondered multiple times how well a Hound Dog driven at 3 - 3.25 amps at 9 volts would perform. :devil:

Grizz
 

precisionworks

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... The Predator's rated 670 lm, it has a rated throw of only 330 (was it m or yds?), while the Viking has a 350-400.

If you're having trouble going to sleep just pick up the full copy of ANSI/NEMA FL 1-2009, the current voluntary standard used by reputable flashlight manufacturers. Regarding "rated throw" (ANSI calls it beam distance) it is the distance at which a flashlight produces 1/4 Lux.

Image-9853934-202259607-2-WebSmall_0_a16ba20b3b545d5f7499cf6122634211_1


There are certainly eyes that can identify a target under full moonlight & determine the correct course of action based on that information. Other eyes might need 400% more light (deep twilight) to make that determination. Many eyes need at least 5-10 Lux to discern friend/foe & fire/don't fire. 10 Lux isn't bright but it's 4000% brighter than the light level that FL1 uses to determine max throw.

YMMV.
 
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MMA10mm

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Wow, thanks for the input. Several of you are really improving my knowledge and provoking critical thought on trade-offs, what is possible, and what is necessary.

Had a mini bull session at work about some perimeter duty we've done on various calls over the years. There is always some light, and all of us have eyes which adjust to low light to some degree or another. In worst-case scenarios (rain, fog) a more powerful light won't be a benefit. After this discussion, it was agreed a general-purpose light (use-able indoors as well as outdoors) with 50m of projection would be sufficient. Now, reading several of you guys' posts, it would seem the target light level at 50m is at least 5 lux. Such a light, I presume, would not be overpoweringly bright for building searches, would it not?

Still does not solve my home pasture protection problem though... I had been avoiding it, but may look into supplemental lighting around/coming off of the barn. The distance to the farthest back corner of my barn I can see from the house is 67 yards. I'd like to be able to see well past that (like twice that far), but I'm recognizing reality isn't going to work that way. I'm also concerned about in the pasture situation about identifying a backstop. Can my light be powerful enough to show what's beyond the fox or coyote, just in case I miss? I would like to know what will stop that .30-cal bullet...

All in all, I think getting 5 lux or more at 50-75 yards is a more realistic goal and will suffice for my WML. If I'm understanding the math in Teej's post #2 above, that puts me in the 55,000-60,000 cd range, which is close to the high-end 1" lights' ratings.

I think my only other hope is if Vihn can do magic... ;)
 

MMA10mm

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By the way, saw a coyote on the way in at the end of my shift tonight. He was loping along until my headlights hit him, and then he took off in high gear. It would have been a very challenging shot. At closest point, he was probably 40 yards away, and in no time, he was gone.
 

precisionworks

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I'm guessing that a number of us on this forum have owned 1000 lumens lights or bigger but all big lights are not created equal. Some have such an intense hotspot that they are miserable to use 10 feet away - been there done that sold those lights. ANSI doesn't even attempt to define beam quality uniformity hardness or softness. One of my favorite small lights is the Haiku because the beam is so uniform and the transition from hot spot to spill beam is gradual - but it is a 150 lumen light that costs almost $500. My current favorites are the Surefire fury either two cell or three cell. The beam allows me to light up the sidewalk 10 feet in front of me without being blindingly harsh & that's with the 1000 lumen model. You may be able to find that same beam quality in another light but I don't know any to recommend.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk
 

MMA10mm

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I'm guessing that a number of us on this forum have owned 1000 lumens lights or bigger but all big lights are not created equal. Some have such an intense hotspot that they are miserable to use 10 feet away - been there done that sold those lights. ANSI doesn't even attempt to define beam quality uniformity hardness or softness.

And therein lies the problem. Combine this with the huge number of light manufacturers and it gets overwhelming...

I have a couple sample lights coming to compare. I'd love to add a P3X to the mix, but so far I've had no luck finding someone with one. I'm sure someone has one. Just need to find them...

Now, for some tests during the comparison... I'm thinking a mannequin in dark clothes (blue jeans & black hoodie) and a coyote mount (I know someone throwing an old one away) set at various distances. I may look around cpf here for testing protocols, but I'm not making any promises I'm going to get crazy scientific.
 

MMA10mm

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Sorry guys. I've been off-line since Sunday. The tornados struck very close to home. Power was just restored a couple hours ago. I'm in need of a new roof, garage door, and some siding, but I'm lucky; I've still got a house to live in. Others, including my sister are going to need a new home.

My SureFire E2L and E2Es have come in very handy. The Insight M3 on my Glock was reassuring with sporadic looting in the area. Not sure how much time I'll be able to spend on-line for awhile, but didn't want you to think I was ignoring you.
 

dss_777

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Oct 31, 2004
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900
So sorry to hear about your loss. I truly hope those you care about are OK, and that the rebuilding is quick and as painless as possible.

It is nice to know that your lights could give you some comfort in a very difficult time.

We'll be here to help you spend more of your money when you get to that. It's what friends do. :)
 

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