P2D review - FlashlightReviews.com

[abvidledUK]

Quicky...on my P2D

different (R)CR123's voltages functions

3v CR123.....P2D exactly as described

3.0v RCR123 unprotected...too large to fit in.

3.6v RCR123 unprotected...works, but at turbo level only all settings, strobe & SOS OK

Current consumption at battery on my P2D.

3v CR123.
Turbo = 1,260ma
High = 520ma
Med = 230ma
Low = 60ma

3.6v RCR123
All modes = 870ma

Excellent torch. Brilliant, literally. Well done Fenix (& 4-7's)

Waiting in anticipation for Quickbeams FLR RT's.

Interesting fact...P2D powered by 1.5v alkaline battery, held in place.....

Turbo = 870ma, output approx 45 lumens (L1P)

 

[abvidledUK]

Lanyard attachment...

What is the best technique ?

Why is there a scalloped cut out in the tail ?

Is there a way to attach the lanyard to make use of this cutout, so that the P2D will stand firmly upright ?

 

[Kilovolt]

To attach the lanyard you can follow the instructions indicated in the Fenix website:

http://www.fenixlight.com/info/index.htm

The scalloped cut is where the lanyard or better a metallic ring rests to allow the light to stand upright.

 

[abvidledUK]

To attach the lanyard you can follow the instructions indicated in the Fenix website:

http://www.fenixlight.com/info/index.htm

The scalloped cut is where the lanyard rests to allow the light to stand upright.

Those instructions don't relate to the P2D, already looked there.

There must be a way, perhaps a photo, to show how P2D works with scalloped cut.

When I try usual way, the lanyard just slips out of scalloped cut.

 

[Kilovolt]

This is what I have done with the supplied lanyard on the basis of the website instructions:

http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2709cp7.jpg
http://img245.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cimg2706td7.jpg

If you do it in the opposite way (starting from inside) the lanyard will rest in the scalloped cut.

 

[abvidledUK]

I did try the suggestion of threading the lanyard through from the inside...





But I much preferred the normal way, of ignoring the scalloped cutout altogether.

Perhaps it's there for a different purpose ?

Anyway, this is what I prefer....





PS: the switch cover is not scratched, just fluff from the white cotton thread used to pull the lanyard through.

 

[Kilovolt]

I believe the cut has the same purpose as in L0D's i.e. to accommodate a split ring when you want the light to stand upright.

http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixl0d/fenixl0d04.jpg

 

[adnj]

My thoughts exactly.

I believe the cut has the same purpose as in L0D's i.e. to accommodate a split ring when you want the light to stand upright.

http://www.fenixlight.com/flashlight/fenixl0d/fenixl0d04.jpg

 

[adnj]

Doug,

From your review

I did notice that the switch cover pooks out a little when the tailcap is put on, but when removed it is flat. This appears to be because a very small amount of pressure builds in the light as you continue to tighten the tailcap past the O-ring and the light becomes air tight. When standing on the tailcap this results in a very slight instability, but nothing serious; at least not with the unit I have.

You can eliminate the problem by holding the switch fully depressed while the switch is screwed onto the body of the P2D with the battery in the proper position. This creates just enough room for the switch boot to stay out of the way while tailstanding the P2D.

 

[gadgetnerd]

Doug,

From your review

You can eliminate the problem by holding the switch fully depressed while the switch is screwed onto the body of the P2D with the battery in the proper position. This creates just enough room for the switch boot to stay out of the way while tailstanding the P2D.

I tried this technique and had no luck. Good thing fenix always ships lights with spare rubber caps - I just replaced the P2D cap with a spare from my L1D and the problem went away.

 

[T4R06]

@doug - very nice review!
just one question.. it seems the emitter is slightly low on reflector, quite different to other cree light that dont have space and at the same time no gap between the led dome and reflector.

@* - those who have already, is this normal? im really concerned because this might losing the output of P2D

 

[LGCubana]

@doug - very nice review!
just one question.. it seems the emitter is slightly low on reflector, quite different to other cree light that dont have space and at the same time no gap between the led dome and reflector.

@* - those who have already, is this normal? im really concerned because this might losing the output of P2D

Apparently so; mine is & I know of another forum member (that I asked) that has the same low seating.

 

[T4R06]

@LGcubana - Hmmm... so, fenix default this kind of setting i think. effect of much bigger hotspot than the previous models

 

[JJohn]

Does anyone have a picture of the P2D next to a HDS EDC? I want another small light for leaving in the car (there is a sunglass holder that is just barely too small for my HDS) and was wondering if the size difference between these two lights was at all significant.

Another comment: Why is turbo mode the tightened down position? I would much prefer the general mode (most often used) to be the mode where things are tightened down.

Thanks.

 

[adnj]

The P2D and the HDS lookied like they were both about 3.25 inches long.

 

[GalvanickLucifer]

I did notice that the switch cover pooks out a little when the tailcap is put on, but when removed it is flat. This appears to be because a very small amount of pressure builds in the light as you continue to tighten the tailcap past the O-ring and the light becomes air tight. When standing on the tailcap this results in a very slight instability, but nothing serious; at least not with the unit I have.

I don't know if "pooks" is a typo or a new word you created that means something less than "pokes", but I sure do like it!