anyone else added lights to their car?

270winchester

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down the road from Pleasure Point.
I'm wondering how many of us have decided to add a few lights to their cars in the pursuit of happiness....I mean better night driving experience(legally)

I'll start:
P1210836.jpg


edit: to avoid confusion, this photo was taken on private property under controlled conditions, no law(s) was/were broken in the process of capturing the image shown.

under California State Vehicle Code:
24411. Notwithstanding any other provision of law, a vehicle may be equipped with not more than eight lamps for use as headlamps while the vehicle is operated or driven off the highway. The lamps shall be mounted at a height of not less than 16 inches from the ground, or more than 12 inches above the top of the passenger compartment, at any place between the front of the vehicle and a line lying on a point 40 inches to the rear of the seat occupied by the driver, shall be wired independently of all other lighting circuits, and, whenever the vehicle is operated or driven upon a highway, shall be covered or hooded with an opaque hood or cover, and turned off.
Amended Ch. 149, Stats. 1986. Effective January 1, 1987.


the rectangular lights are auxiliary driving lights, which under the CA VC:
24402. (a) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two
auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less
than 16 inches nor more than 42 inches. Driving lamps are lamps
designed for supplementing the upper beam from headlamps and may not
be lighted with the lower beam.
the bottom two are fog lamps, which under the CVC:

24403. (a) A motor vehicle may be equipped with not more than two
foglamps that may be used with, but may not be used in substitution
of, headlamps.
(b) On a motor vehicle other than a motorcycle, the foglamps
authorized under this section shall be mounted on the front at a
height of not less than 12 inches nor more than 30 inches and aimed
so that when the vehicle is not loaded none of the high-intensity
portion of the light to the left of the center of the vehicle
projects higher than a level of four inches below the level of the
center of the lamp from which it comes, for a distance of 25 feet in
front of the vehicle.
the vehicle has always been operated with utmost regard to the legal requirements when driven upon a public highway. You experience may vary. Please check you local laws and consult your local law enforcement agency or a legal consul if you are not certain of the actual law in your state/province/district/country. This poster shall not be held responsible for legislative differences between states/areas/counties.
 
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TorchBoy

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I've been wondering why there aren't more threads like this.

On my last car I had a pair of round 130W spotlights (white), plus a pair of 100W yellow foglights underneath. I also upgraded the sidelights to 25W (which became 21W when I couldn't get the 25W bulbs any more). Total 640W on high beam with the fogs on, and with the stalk switch being a make-before-break I could have the low beam on at the same time if I held the stalk just right, for 750W.

Sorry, I don't think I have any photos of it handy.

Looks like you don't have everything on in your photo.
 

beach honda

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i threw an extra pair of acura TSX projectors i had laying around in my lower grille. Hooked em up to a xenon depot D2S 4300K kit. Beautiful OEM beam pattern. Got some yellow bulbs in the stockers to cut through the fog\foul weather...
 

BlueGerbil

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Feb 5, 2004
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Germany
  • Added a set of Hella Rallye 4000 HID lights (Hella Luminator Xenon over here in Europe)
  • Added a set of PIAA 1900x fog lights
  • Replaced stock reflectors with clear ones (not yet pictured)
  • Replaced stock bulbs with Osram units that should be 30% brighter
  • Replaced turn signals in front bumper w/ dark-clear ones from a VW Golf I
  • Upgraded alternator (160 A MeanGreen) and battery (Blue Optima 75Ah)
  • Plans: a single HID backup light, a set of flood lights on the roof and a 2nd Optima
bg059.jpg
 
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schiesz

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Lees Summit, MO
I like that brake light, is that some programmable electronic controller that you bought or did you make it? I haven't seen anything like that before.

schiesz
 

LED Zeppelin

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Great Lakes
I added lots of lights to the Beast, my '86 GMC Dually. I bought some Hella Rally 4000 lights with the conering beam pattern (flood with top cutoff), some worklights for the sides and rear, and mounted them on a custom lightbar. At the center is a multi-mode amber LED emergency strobe, an Able "Show-Me" unit. It has about 350 5 mm LEDs, is very bright, and works well. It originally had magnetic feet but I permanently mounted it to the light bar. To fabricate the lightbar, I used a perforated 1 X 1" steel tube mounted to the roll bar, and wrapped it in diamond plate alum as a wireway. The wires enter the roll bar at the top, and exit the rollbar end through the stake pocket of the bed, and into a box I made from the same alum. The box houses the relays and fuses. It was a bear pulling all those wires through the rollbar.


I bought many many automotive LED light accessories on ebay. One item was an LED underbody kit (white LEDs), that I mounted under the bed rails as cargo lighting. In this picture I don't have the tonneau cover yet, but with it on it's pitch black under there without the lights.


The lights are controlled by a switch panel I made from textured plastic sheet. I can control the forward and rearward pairs of lights, the LED strobe, and left or right worklights individually. Toggle switches at left control the cargo lights and running board lights and select the mode of operation (on, off, door switched, park light).


The truck originally had no dome light at all, and there was no light available to see anything inside while you're driving. I took a clue from the German cars and installed some red LED cockpit lights. These were originally LED wiper arm lights (pretty stupid IMO) and had a set screw clamp. I cut off the clamp part, modified them a bit, and used 4 of them on the headliner (actually there's no "liner"). They can swivel and point which is nice. I wired them to a toggle switch that selects on, off, or park light activated.

I also bought an actual BMW dome light unit on ebay, with two red LEDs built-in as well as 3 switched bulbs. The curvature didn't work with my roof, and I also had no storage, so I fabricated a fiberglass roof cubby that has storage at the rear, and the BMW dome light at the front. I made a skeleton from alum mesh, built it up with figerglass strips, and finished off with body filler. It was a royal PITA.

At the rear of the roof I mounted 2 LED light bars to serve as the main dome lights. Here's some pics looking up at the roof from the driver's side:


Here's some detail of the cockpit lights, one above the driver's vent window, and the 2 center-mounted:


I also mounted 4 amber LED bars to the underside of the hood to serve as service lights. They are supplemented by a period Chevy truck reel light - a magnet-backed bulb housing attached to a 20' retractable wire.


Here's a picture with the lights on. There are 3 red LED bars rear-facing under the roll bar. These operate only with the brake and turn. All 3 light for braking, and the left and right flash with the blinkers. There are 3 more red LED bars under the tailgate that are running or park lights. These red LED bars are Eurolite brand and are highly recommended. They have selectable output (park/brake), aluminum end caps (aimable), and braided SS wiring. The other brands used for the dome and service lights are not as durable. Also note the LED SS exhaust tips behind each rear wheel.


One challenge was to get the running board lights to operate as I wanted - that is to come on with the door switch when you entered the vehicle, and also with the parking lights. The problem was that the door switch is a switched ground, and the park lights are switched positive. I had to use 2 relays to isolate the circuits from backfeeding each other.

I also installed 2 switches for the cargo lights. One in the cab, and one at the tailgate so either can turn them on or off.

I learned a lot about auto wiring working on this truck, and pulled many hundreds of feet of wire and loom. I was working on it very consistently for at least 6 months.
 

dimulec

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CA, USA
I like that brake light, is that some programmable electronic controller that you bought or did you make it? I haven't seen anything like that before.

schiesz
I made it. I am going to publish that project on my web site boldline.org soon. I already have the motorcycle light project there.
 

ACMarina

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Sep 10, 2004
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Brookston, IN
I wish lighting on modern-day vehicles wasn't all controlled by some spastic computer in my vehicle.

I put LED taillights (not a drop-in replacement bulb, full-on LED replacements) on my Ford Focus. Since there's much less resistance, they'd blink faster. Thinking this not to be a problem, I look for the blinker relay but there isn't one - it's built into a funky LCM inside the car. LED CHMSL wouldn't turn off or let me use cruise control, again because of resistance. Stupid LCM..

I'll get pics soon :)
 

Aluminum Junkie

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ACMarina, I think you need a load resister as shown on this site. http://www.ledtronics.com/ds/aut1157m/ had the same problem on my Dodge, and this item fixed it. Scroll down on this page and see the item I am talking about. This places a load on the circuit, and your electrical system will see the LED as a conventional bulb. AJ
 
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garence

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Nov 26, 2007
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outer limits
I'm thinking about adding some exterior LED floor lighting, mounted on the underside of my side mirrors (as seen as optional equipment on some vehicles) and activated through the interior dome light circuit. Can someone here recommend an LED product for this? I'm hoping there's something available that doesn't require an inline voltage regulator, but will be bright enough to be useful. Thanks! :)

UPDATE:
I answered my own question after searching a little while longer. http://www.oznium.com/led-modules
;)
 
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half-watt

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Jul 12, 2007
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Southern Connecticut
1995 Acura Integra GS-R
besides doing some extensive engine (320BHP w/o Nitrous + programmable Nitrous controller usually set for +60HP with a 2-3sec onset to +60HP for a total of 380HP in a 2775lb car), or nearly double stock HP - 170HP), intake, exhaust, drivetrain, suspension, tires, and braking work,

i also upgraded the lighting quite extensively (not legal)

2x80W lows
2x100W highs
2x100W floods
2x100W spots

for a total of 760W when all 8 lights were turned on.

the 4 extra lights were quite tastefully integrated into the lower areas of the front facade.


2001 Audi A6 2.7T
performed moderate engine and exhaust mods yielding 380HP (130HP over stock)

and performed some obligatory lighting mods to the
stock HID, by
adding 2x80W PIAA mini spots and 2x100W PIAA spots behind grill (still allowed most of the light out); upgraded the 35W and 55W PIAA bulbs to the wattages mentioned.


2007 Mazdaspeed 3
stock HID + 2x100W spots added


i drive to work at 0230-0330 along an unlit limited access highway. usually see 2-4 dead deer each week. thanks to the extra lighting, i've been able to spot them quite a distance away.
 

mudpuppy

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Dec 8, 2007
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Ho hum. Rule 9 includes: You agree, through your use of this BB, that you will not use this BB to post any material which is knowingly illegal or promotes illegal activity. :poke:

that corolla/camry up top isn't legal either. you are only allowed to have 4 forward facing lights on at a time.
 
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