Project Africa: Easiest Way To Make Durable 4-Foot Long Flashlight

Friday

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I have a special project that requires walking at night through the African wild. What I'll be doing involves too many variables to explain here, so just trust me that this is what I need. Anything more would be great, but let's start basic . . . and add bells-n-whistles ltr.

BRUTE BASICS: A 4' long maglite-style flashlight, which weighs in at 8-12lbs, and which won't break if used as pry bar, whacked on a boulder, or, well, bitten by a lion.

I'm not one bit kidding. I've been using an 8lb, 4'-long, steel workout bar (not lighted, obviously) for everything I do on these walks . . . now, I'd like to turn it into the same thing, only filled with batteries and a light. Of course, the brighter the better. But, and this is very important, let's start with the goals of durability and design-simplicity, rather than tweaking efficiencies.

Note: A D-cell mag is too fat, so the diameter has to C-Cell or less. The housing has to be damn strong, so even C-Cell might be too fat. Success is simplicity and durability.

If a prototype could be made by materials readily available at a big-box store, all the better. If you want to suggest something special-order, then keep it down to a single item.

So, experts, I turn to you. Upgrade my bar into a flashlight--and what I do can be done better. (Note: it's 100% non-violent and involves protecting highly endangered and mortally wounded animals.)

TIA in advance,

~john
 
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Ezeriel

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I do not know of a light that meets your needs....


Perhaps use a headlamp, and keep your pry bar?
 

AnAppleSnail

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You might chuckle at this, but...the best way to turn a reliable, light-weight-enough-to-use, sturdy and cheap pry bar into a (R-LWETU-SC) pry bar plus flashlight, would be to securely attach a flashlight to your pry bar. First things first:

Do you (ab)use both ends of the pry bar, or can one end be left mostly flashlight-friendly? Most things in most flashlights don't like being plunged into crevices or hit with large boulders to pry. I can't see much practicality in a conventional flashlight stuck on the end of a four-foot pole in heavy brush. Have you tried duct-taping a light to your adventure bar for a prototype trial? Does a four-foot-long light do what you need?
 

Friday

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AnAppleSnaill (love the handle)

I love innovation, so I'm open to all possibilities. You've identified some key concerns, so let me touch on them:

1. The weight is important, as in *not lighter than* 6lbs. Ideal 8-10lbs.
2. One end must be lighted, and that end still needs to be durable. I won't be swinging the lighted end against a boulder, but (for example) it shouldn't break if I drop it from 6 feet. The other end isn't a concern.

I have plenty of ideas, but experts see better/faster than novices and are more efficient in innovation.....so I'll await yours......

~john
 

MattSPL

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Buy a Solarforce Gladiator, add your choice of P60 drop-in, possibly a Malkoff for strength and reliability, then adapt some form of pole/bar to accept the Gladiator.
 

yliu

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won't break if used as pry bar

You'll need to make it out of stainless steel if you are really gonna use it as a pry bar. In that case, you should contact a custom flashlight maker, since I don't know if there are any large lights made out to steel due to it's weight and the fact that it's much harder to work with.

Or make a custom pry bar with a flashlight in one end:)
 

smokelaw1

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OK....my idea. Steel bar 4' long, of whatever diameter you choose. Then, bore ONLY the top few inches (6-8 perhaps) and create a p60 host out of it (this area might need to be greater diameter, depending on what you choose for the lower portion). Then, put in a good, durable dropin, with a sturdy twisty switch (I'm thinking malkoff little twisty head with a M61m it can run of 18650 recharged during the day via solar quite easily in what I imagine is sunny Africa, and you can carry a numebr of back up primaries as well). The problems....well, finding such a bar, or someone who can make one for you. I could name a number of our super-modders who COULD do it, though it would be rather expensive.
 

Friday

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I'm hoping we can come up with a body for this proposed LightBar that will house a full string of batteries, from top to bottom.....like 40 x CR123's? Just because it's not done, doesn't mean it can't be done.

So, can it?

PS: I didn't mean a pry bar, so much as something that would support (let's say) my weight, hanging on it like a chin-up bar. PVC at 1" diameter won't cut it. Maybe a steel pipe, of some sort.....
 

Gunner12

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If you have too many batteries, they could move quite a bit and the last battery will be taking on a decent amount. If you hit anything with the light, the batteries at the bottom might be dented. Also, that many lithium batteries could result in your light turning into a roman candle.

AA batteries might work better. The slightly thinner battery will give you a bit more wall thickness. Also, personally I won't worry about AA batteries venting on me.

Maybe you could get a steel rod that accepts your battery of choice, and have someone make an adapter for a P60 accepting bezel and/or a side switch. The other end would just be a cap with a spring.
 

ToyTank

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My first DIY attempt would contain something like

-1.25" Steel water pipe with ID close to 26MM. May need slight sanding or boring.
-P60 Module that can take over 14V
-A123 26650 cells

You want Lifepo4 or Nimh batteries they are the only types that have a chance to handle the abuse and are not dangerous. A stock P60 module and the 26mm cells should fit inside the waterpipe with little effort.

The water pipe is cheap and somwhat hard. I use 1" as tool handles and it holds up pretty well but I have bent them a time or two.

You could case harden you waterpipe to make it much stronger but this is dangerous for DIY

-Used motor oil
-Larger diamter steel pipe to hold hot oil and your P60 prybar
 

^Gurthang

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Perhaps this would work: 1. Get a hardened 1 ' length of tool steel 3/4" rod and have it machined into what ever tip you want. 2. Buy a 4-5' length of 1 1/4" 316 SS XH pipe. Cut off 1' length and have it machined to accept something like a FiveMega 3x 18650 tube, add an "e" series head w/ adapter and have it made so it a twisty on/off. The light will fit inside the 1' end and then screw onto the longer pipe body. Finally have the tool steel tip welded to the opposite end. Now you have something that would take a lickin' and keep on tickin'.
 

yliu

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You might also consider using rechargeable Li Po cells. Unlike the cylindrical cells, LiPo cells are flat, so should fit onto the pry bay better.
 

Tegan's Dad

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My concern with batteries the entire 4' length, besides the "Roman Candle" possibility would be that unless the bar were extremely rigid, the flex in the bar could damage the batteries. You wouldn't want it to be a tight fit (lots of battery rattle) because of this. I think the "put a flashlight on the end of a big stick" looks like the best idea IMHO. I think having a flashlight that could be easily replaced is a good idea too, because if you don't have a backup, you don't have a light.

Think of what could go wrong with having the pry bar be the light, and what you can do in the field to fix it. Then do the same with having a way to attach a "commercial" light to the end of the stick and repeat.

1) Exposed threads on the bar could get damaged, especially if the head is snapped off while threading. Also, cross-threading could happen.
2) Battery damage from the bar flexing. The longer the bar, the more flex.
3) What if 1 battery goes bad, do you have spacers that could replace it, or enough spare batteries? What if 5 go bad?

Another thought would be the possibility of using a bike mount or gun rail on the bar. Even hose clamps would work in a pinch to hold a light.
 

gravelmonkey

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Another thought would be the possibility of using a bike mount or gun rail on the bar. Even hose clamps would work in a pinch to hold a light.

+1

Seems a LOT easier and reliable than having a custom bar made up. Have you had a look at something like the TwoFish Lockblock rubber mounts? A pair of them should be fairly sturdy!

Was the idea of housing batteries to try and get super-long run-times or just to make use of the available space?


GM
 

Friday

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Thanks to everyone for the ideas. It's extraordinary that everyone here simply took up the challenge as-is, without wasting time with "Well, I would do this, though it's not what you said you wanted."

UPDATES:
1. Just to re-emphasize from original post, I'd like the bar mostly filled with battery power. Maybe half of them could be for storage: it's a primary design goal and I'll need all that power for many reasons. It's one of the elements that makes this project a challenge, but overcoming the challenge is part of what makes an engineering project special. So . . . what type of batteries, how to incorporate them ergonomically, how to make the bar strong, yet safe? Etc.

2. I like the "strap-on light" ideas, but I need--upon command--to draw off a ton of battery power. See #3.

3. I'm not sure about just a P60. The light itself needs dispersal options. A) The brightest 1-second burst possible, in both 360-degree dispersal and more focused discharge (say 35-degrees). B. Continuous draw light (for 4-8 hour walks), both area and tighter focus.

I'd love to see the options.

~john

PS: This project is now officially released as "Open Source w/Benefits." That means 20% of profits from the eventual sales is reserved for contributors. OS w/Benefits is micro-payment process designed to encourage and reward innovation, regardless of the forum (writing, software development, product creation, etc). It's new, so an explanatory link will be posted soon.....
 
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Ezeriel

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So.. we are building Gandalf's staff?

I like the idea of using the bar for storage... the thought of using many CR123s had me wondering if you were building the worlds brightest pipe-bomb
also... AA's are available in africa... don't count on ever finding a store selling CR123s. Also, the batteries cannot touch end to end, so each one will need to be wrapped for safety.

My fear is, a hollowed out bar is going to be much, much weaker.. Sure a Fenix TK20 makes for a nearly indestructible flashlight, but the longer the tube the weaker it will get.
Is this going to regularly used as a chin-up bar? or in a last ditch situation? also, a slight bend in the bar is going to make getting the batteries out nearly impossible, if they are a tight fit.


Ridged metal conduit might be the stuff you need... go test some out and get back to us ;)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_73207-33483-039454_?PL=1&productId=1260067

if that pipe is strong enough, it shouldn't be too hard to add an end to the pipe that could hold a Fenix E25 (for the side button on/off switch)
or you could side mount a Fenix LD22 (tail-cap on/off switch)
http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=118
http://www.fenixlight.com/viewproduct.asp?id=161

I haven't seen for sure yet, as the E25 is just out, but I think both of those lights can be fitted with a Fenix Diffuser
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFZLWhUM47c
http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=106

if it works for you, you could add a bolt through the tube for the light to rest on (about 4 inches down)
and then a short screw that you can tighten down onto the light, to hold it in place...
the downside is, you are gonna scratch up your light.. maybe a piece of leather between the screw and the light.

also, you can use a thinner piece of tubing (just thick enough to hold the AAs)
and then use a reducer coupling and attach a wider 4ish inch piece of pipe to hold the light.
...that would let you get away from using a bolt to rest the light on, and make for a nicer looking staff ;)
 

Tegan's Dad

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The light itself needs dispersal options.
A) The brightest 1-second burst possible, in both 360-degree dispersal and more focused discharge (say 35-degrees).
B) Continuous draw light (for 4-8 hour walks), both area and tighter focus.

Do these options need to be immediately available, or could you add a diffuser / reflector or reconfigure the light before switching? I think the more different configurations you require, the more complex (and fragile) the design would get. I would think that simple is better for the terrain you will be using it in.
 

AnAppleSnail

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Batteries is not the limitation for high output anymore. The light circuitry and thermal management is. You could probably run a P60 XM-L-type dropin (of limited thermal path) at 3A for several seconds from one 18650, and then get 300 lumens for another hour. Burst is not limited by batteries, once you have a decent pile of them.

I can't see a flashlight-on-a-stick being so useful with no way to aim the light. The only aimable lights I know of run into issues of durability and position-holding.
 
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