The EB1 is a bit bigger, however you can use the E1B body and tailcap to compensate for it. :)
i really want to get surefire E1B because of its size. its perfect EDC light. the reverse clip on it is nice so the head doesn't poke out of back pocket.
is there anything else that can be done to increase output with any version of the light?
if need be is there an alliterative company that i can go with that fits that criteria
ps im still learning :)
Candidly my search-fu is weak but Robin mentioned here a 3rd TC option coming for the EB1, also saw it in his review. Now I cannot find it in the review nor in this thread, can anyone confirm if this 3rd TC is going forward as I want to buy another EB1 w/ that TC.
There is currently no scheduled release date for the click-type switch without shroud, so I had removed it from my review. I think it will be coming, but not for at least several months.
I finally got myself an EB1 tactical despite my initial decision not to. Here are my thoughts:
1. It will never be an EDC light for me. I don't want a throwy beam on low for general usage and most certainly not with a green tint :sick2:! On high the tint is nice and white.
2. My sample doesn't seem to run on LiFePO4 unless they are half run-down already, so it is a primary only light for me.
3. I don't mind the "poor regulation" as much as I thought I would. It is an amazing thrower and its LUX stays considerably more than my E1B (and even L1 on RCRs) until the battery is dead.
4. The beamshape is great! It has a perfectly round hotspot with nice even spill. There is no black ring around the hotspot and no rings either like with my E1B and L1 (they are quite faint).
So this seems like a great BACKUP light for when you might need some serious throw. Then the runtime curve is of no consequence because when you need it the battery will be fresh. My previous Backup E1B was more than a backup light and I EDC'd it for a long time. This light will truly be carried as backup only. EDC will remain a HDS (currently the 200 Rotary).
To summarize: Buy this light if you want a bomb-proof pocket-thrower running off a single primary but don't buy it to replace your HDS or other great EDC light!
Just tried this again with LiFePO4 but no go and then I popped in an IMR 16340 and it worked! Is this safe??? The levels seem the same as with a primary. I haven't run it continuously more than 5 minutes but it doesn't get warmer than with a primary. Strange that it doesn't work with LiFePO4 and does with an IMR 4,2V. Is this light maybe designed with these cells in mind? Then it could possibly register the difference in primaries and IMR 16340s based on their voltage (like HDS) and that would explain why it didn't work with 3,3V LiFePO4. Maybe its high stops working when the IMRs have run down to 3,3V? I'll bet the runtime curve will look better with IMRs compared to primaries. Maybe I'm getting all excited for nothing. Somebody else please chime in.
I found this post about RCR in the EB1 but it wasn't an IMR. I measured the tailcap current with the IMR 16340 and it draws 2000mAh. Any ideas whether this is safe to run in the EB1?
EDIT: I've been thinking about this strange behavior a bit more: Could it be that the same head will not only run off both the clicky and tactical switches but also run off either 1 or 2 cell bodies? This would explain the behavior with the 4,2V IMR and also explain the complicated electronics in the head. Is there a EB2 coming with the same head? Somebody knowledgeable needs to chime in here please.
Bullzeyebill has commented on this matter here. He is obviously very knowledgeable and thinks it is probably not safe. I have however continued using it and have not encountered problems yet.
I too have been running my EB1T on IMR16340s. Very good performance, same output as primaries but better, flatter output on high. On primaries, I get about 10-12 minutes of flat output before declining output. On the IMRs I get about 25+ minutes of flat output (measured with a light meter in a light box) but the output falls off pretty fast over the next 10 minutes after that.
All in all very happy with this light on IMRs. No extra heat running on IMRs (compared with primaries).
Also, for what it is worth, regarding the 2000mA that Max measured with the IMR, I've measured as much as 2400mA from a partially depleted primary. Primary current started around 1500mA, rose to around 2400mA and then fell as the cell became more depleted.
this thread but this info belongs there as well! I see you posted a summary over there, thanks.
Is the Cree Xpe a better led than the xpg?
The XP-E is less efficient than the XP-G but it has more throw to it hence the reason Surefire decided to use it.
Just wondering, can an E1B head be fitted on an EB1 body and function normally? I'm trying to combine the excellent regulation of E1B with the tactical tailcap of EB1.
Nope. The UI is in the head of the eb1
Well, the M300B weapon-light finally dropped. I bought one immediately. It's the same scenario as the E1B and M300A, basically. A single-mode with a body-keyed mount. All I can say is that some of you are totally oblivious to the real world and have your head crammed so far into a spreadsheet that you probably don't even have a use for this stuff, if you are whining about the EB1's performance compared to the E1B (Having owned the weapon-light version of the E1B, the M300A, myself). This is WORLDS better on high (the only mode mine has). The tint is great, the beam is very clean, the spill is useful, and the output trounces my M600C (E2DL equivalent) to my naked eye. Screw your spreadsheets, in the real world, this is a winner. Go take some 18" beamshots off a bedsheet or some mess and get back with us about an artifact in the beam that you found or something, but in the mean time, this is what the EB1/M300B looks like (very poorly photographed) at 100 meters:
Looked much better in person, but you get the idea. It's viable for use at 100m if you have a magnified optic to view facial features, and if just hunting hogs, will be fine with an RDS.
For non-LE/MIL/Hunting use, it looks like a serious barn-burner of a pocket-carry light and I bet the low mode is very useful in that role.
Not sure if this has been discussed but with the EB1T does the clip rub/sit on the tailcap though use? - Like the E1B
Thinking about picking one of these up. Just curious, because if I had to put shrink tubing on the area would it would slow operation.. Or I'd just live with a shredded up tail.
I've had one since valentines day and it still isn't touching. It may be a tad but closer to te body from me holding the clip in my hand but still not touching. The clip is very sturdy. Much more than the lx2 style clip.
I don't have much of great substance to add to this thread other than to say that I love the EB1T. It's pretty darn awesome.
I'm getting ready to order one of these but I can't decide on which tailcap I want... decisions, decisions. Has anyone had luck purchasing one of the EB1 tailcaps from Surefire?
Also, the heads have standard E-series, threads. Right? I could use this head on the 2xAA body I have for my E1L?
Recently got an EB1T.
I am very impressed with this light. The user interface is the best I have seen, with both low and high being instantly available at all times. There is no chance of unintentionally clicking the light from momentary on to constant on, but constant on is available if I want it. On high, I can illuminate things quite far away. I was a bit surprised by the size of the light, which strikes me as big for a 1xCR123, and which is quite comparable in size to my 2xCR123 E2E. However, the light carries very well in a pocket and is comfortable to use in my hand.
i bought the new backup a couple months ago, and i've noticed flickering on the low mode. i was experimenting reading with it and the flickering was enough to drive me nuts! any advice on how to fix it? or should i just send it into Surefire? i've only run primaries through it and their "authorized" rechargeables (K2 Energy LFP 123A 3.2V). flickering occurred with both cells...
If you haven't done so already, it would probably be a good idea to check and make sure the threads at the head and tail are clean and allowing good contact. If that doesn't make any difference, then it's time to give SureFire a call and let them worry about it.
I had a change of heart & cancelled my order for EB1 tactical clicky without shroud like the E1B UI. Then I decided I needed an EB1. Today I rec'd Tan EB1 tactical without shroud & without clicky. I like it. I like the slight press for low, a slight further press for high or full press for instant high & twist for low lock on & twist further for high lock on. The amount of twist from low before reaching high is about 180 degrees of the tailcap. Then there is another 180 degree twist once high is locked on before the tailcap comes to complete stop. I have noticed occasional intermittent flickering of the low mode during twist only (not in press) in the very early stages of low mode twist. It is not a problem for me if I am steady or quick twist past the short flickering section. It actually took me a minute or two to give this UI the thumbs up. I would have preferred a short twist of low & a further short twist before reaching high mode lock on rather 180 degrees to high and another excess 180 degrees to complete stop of the tailcap twist. I am not bothered in the least by the design. Very happy with purchase. Beam can be a little artifacty at close range at straight-white walls but spreads out fine at about 6 feet outside in real conditions & is unnoticeable at 10 to 150 feet & beyond outside. The output is considerably brighter, much better thrower & with wider beam pattern than the E1B. This is not a subtle increase in output, throw or beam pattern. It is certainly not floody by any means. I am enthusiastically pleased with the purchase. The only complaint is that my 1 inch diameter SF diffusers & red filters will not fit the EB1.
How many people are running the new EB1 head on the older E1B body?
I personally love the feel of the older body style and was curious if there was much difference.
For anyone curious about swapping tailcaps between the tactical and clicky versions, I can say that it most definitely works with ONE caveat. Apparently the delay programming (to switch from high to low) is different on the two models (longer on the clicky version). I originally purchased a EB1 Tactical and tested it out with a clicky tailcap from my friend's EB1. In order to switch to low mode, you must "double tap" the switch MUCH faster than is required on the "official" clicky version. This makes sense, since you wouldn't want your tactical light switching to low unexpectedly on the second press. After putting the tactical tailcap back on mine, i was actually able to get it to switch to low on a 2nd hard press if done EXTREMELY quickly...