VB-16 from DealExtreme.

Flymo

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Jan 2, 2007
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I have the same VB-16 and it is clear for me, that it is Non Milispec HA black. And it is indeed, like a Mag-lite.:)sick2:).
But I own also a Pentagonlight L2 HA-III and that is a really difference with the VB-16, the PL L2 is much more scratchresistant than the VB-16.
But in general, the VB-16 is a nice (but not the best).
I know for sure, that the Waion VB-16, is a better quality.
 
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Mr.Urahara reloaded

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Feb 25, 2007
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@ Flymo

I stated from your kast post that you were able to scratch your VB-16?

Can you please show a picture of the scratches?

I have mine only for 5 Days now and no scratches have occured so far ( by the way, it fell yesterday of the floor and bounced down the stairs:green: and i thought damn it first battlescares :crazy: but no sign of the coating wearing of)


@Gunner12

thats why i say: SO CALLED HA-III:p


MfG Mr.Urahara
 

Flymo

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Mr.Urahara,

I know for sure that my VB-16 is the same as yours, but I don't try to scratch it (why should I) but indeed, the coating it is very tough, but try to find a Pentagonlight L2 (HA-III) and you can see, what I mean.
 

Mr.Urahara reloaded

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@ Flymo

You can't tell from the look of the surface if it is tougher than another, second is that i do not have access to a Pentagonlight but yes, i can see a difference beetwen the coating of a Inova and the VB-16.

While the Vb-16 is really glossy the Inova is matt.

This is what my Inova T3 looks like after it fell 5 floors down on concrete marble ( there was a crack in the marble).



I don't think the VB-16 could handle that without any bigger damage.


MfG Mr.Urahara
 

vetkaw63

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Dec 1, 2004
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virginia, us
HA is meant for abrasion resistance, not strength. It won't help in a fall. The flashlight is only as durable as the material that it is machined of.
Mike
 

nanotech17

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Jul 31, 2006
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@ Flymo

You can't tell from the look of the surface if it is tougher than another, second is that i do not have access to a Pentagonlight but yes, i can see a difference beetwen the coating of a Inova and the VB-16.

While the Vb-16 is really glossy the Inova is matt.

This is what my Inova T3 looks like after it fell 5 floors down on concrete marble ( there was a crack in the marble).



I don't think the VB-16 could handle that without any bigger damage.


MfG Mr.Urahara

Now that is pure HAIII.
I gave my T3 as a gift to a school teacher a non-flashaholic and after told him the whole story & the price he just :eek:oo:
 

Torcherman

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Aug 15, 2007
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Does somebody allready have experience with the VB-16 from DX?
My question is:

- Does it have a real HA3 finish ?
- Does it have SSC P4 U bin ?
- Is the workmanship of this model good ?
- Is it a good light for the money ?
- Does it look like the original......?
- Does it meets your expectations ?

OK I do have the very latest from DX, the VB16 CREE.

Points:
It actually is 32 steps from Idle to Max . You cant really notice the last 10 steps of the 32 settings as the light output is already near max at around 22 steps--however the current consumption keeps going up toward the max 32nd max step!. ( depending on the sate of charge or type of battery used)

Now the light output will vary with the state of charge in your 18650.
If it is fully charged you will see consumption of around 750 ma however this will decline to 550 ma before too long. This does not effect the lower step levels--your light output may stop increasing say by the 10th to 15th step---no more current available.

With a fresh charged 18650 the current is as follows:
Idle 5 ma, each step there after is 30ma addition. Example 10 presses = 300 ma. 20 presses = 600, 30 presses = 900ma.

The problem is that you run out of voltage with the 18650 as it is 3.7 volts. As the battery drops voltage the max available current drops because of the LED characteristics. So as stated before you will notice the Light may stop increasing output at a lower step point.
The VB does not boost.

IF you want this light to fully regulate properly put C123 x 2 cells in it and it will perform and increase current in equal steps all the way to max.

Please note that because of the higher voltage your input current at max is approx 450ma with each step worth 15 ma and idle is about 2 to 3 ma.


The Finish is good - not sure what Ha rating but definitely tough enough.

Output is Good but not awsome.
On 18650 fresh charge = 3500 lux at 1 m
On 123 x 2 constant O/p= 5500 lux at 1 m
Overall output is great on 123 and good on 18650 when fresh.

The beam is general purpose - it has an evenly dispursed fat hot spot therfore is no mean thrower. It is very usefull for the first 60 meters or 200 feet but lacks penatration. ( I think the reflector isn't quite optimum for cree leds)

It is great as a general ready to go unit with memory of its last mode- makes it ideal for not grabbing peoples attention flashing through all fancy modes before you get to your desired setting ( like others)
Good unit worth having around and at 35 odd bucks it is really good value.

Just get one--maybee the SSC will be a sharper focus however the electronics would be the same.

7 out of 10 for me --cheers
 

silversinksam

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Aug 5, 2007
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You want to know how to take it apart with no fuss or muss and no damage?

I have thine answers even though my title is still unenlightened :laughing:

Here's how you do it, you don't need a vise, you dont need a wrench, the only tool you will need is one of those flat square 1mm thick rubber jar openers. If you dont have one, just use a wrench with the flashlight being protected by a couple layers of paper towels, YOU WILL NOT need to exert much force to remove it once the freezer trick weakens the adhesive bond.

OK, Step one. Put it in the freezer for 10 minutes to 15 minutes

Step two, use the plastic jar opener and take the top off. Its that simple. This is a computer cooling trick that you use to remove a heatsink that is held together by thermal adhesive. This trick works well with normal adhesives as well. All the freezer trick does is weaken the bond line to allow it to be removed easily enough.

Edit: Here's mine: (I added a pic to prove just how easy this is)

VB-16.jpg



Enjoy.....

Silversinksam

PS, You can use this trick to remove any flashlight's top that is locked shut via adhesive. If it's welded shut, I can't help yah :)
 
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Taepo

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Jul 6, 2007
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Man...you had my hopes up. I tried the freezer method last night (twice actually), even tried using some wrench pliers ....no good.

Maybe you have some special freezer but the head on my VB-16 is not budging.
 

silversinksam

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Aug 5, 2007
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Man...you had my hopes up. I tried the freezer method last night (twice actually), even tried using some wrench pliers ....no good.

Maybe you have some special freezer but the head on my VB-16 is not budging.

Yours might just be really tight, it should be noted there is virtually no adhesive on the threads, the freezing and contracting combined with breaking the adhesives bond line should have worked. I've done this to two VB-16's and they both came off with this method.

A buddy of mine ordered this light weeks before I did, I was able to open up his the same way as mine via the freezer trick.
 

Glow_Worm

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Jul 6, 2004
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I'm afraid the freezer trick didn't work for me either. And the SN on mine is just 31 below yours. I'll keep trying though, now that I know it's possible (for some at least). The VB-16 is one of my favorite lights -- nice size, very bright, beautiful beam, variable levels, and tactical switch.

Too bad the numnuts who assembled it didn't bother to wipe the dust off the inside of the lens before gluing it shut. Probably would be a bit brighter w/ a clean lens...

--kirk
 

FlashCrazy

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Jan 7, 2007
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I put mine in the freezer yesterday and forgot about it. :ohgeez: I remembered 4 hours later and took it out...ice stuck to it and all...lol. Put it in the vise (with rubber jaws installed). Used a strap wrench to no avail...the whole light kept turning in the vise. I removed the rubber jaws and put the light back in the vise with just a rag for protection. I gave the head of the light a few good whacks with a screwdriver handle to maybe break the adhesive loose. Used the strap wrench again, and with A LOT of force, it finally broke loose.

Pretty amazing how well it was on there, as there's only about four to five threads where it attaches. The adhesive had a green tint, and was as hard as epoxy. I had to chip the rest of it away with a sharp pick... the stuff is really tough!
 

silversinksam

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I put mine in the freezer yesterday and forgot about it. :ohgeez: I remembered 4 hours later and took it out...ice stuck to it and all...lol. Put it in the vise (with rubber jaws installed). Used a strap wrench to no avail...the whole light kept turning in the vise. I removed the rubber jaws and put the light back in the vise with just a rag for protection. I gave the head of the light a few good whacks with a screwdriver handle to maybe break the adhesive loose. Used the strap wrench again, and with A LOT of force, it finally broke loose.

Pretty amazing how well it was on there, as there's only about four to five threads where it attaches. The adhesive had a green tint, and was as hard as epoxy. I had to chip the rest of it away with a sharp pick... the stuff is really tough!

They use very little adhesive, I'll update this post with a pic later to show how little adhesive is used as I took a few pics.

PS, the freezer trick works best if its only placed in the freezer for 10-15 minutes, more than that makes it more difficult. ;)
 

cranphin

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Jul 12, 2007
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No luck here, did break a rubber grippy thing with it :D
But, did leave it long in the freezer too ^_^

I think amount of glue will vary a lot, it just depends how liberal the chinese kid was with the glue brush :D

I've found with some other lights (MTE rebels), that if there's a lot of glue on just one line of thread, say half round, it will really really jam up the whole thing. Cause it becomes a hard half ring of glue that jams it even if it's no longer adhesing to either part.

I -hate- glue :D
 

silversinksam

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Aug 5, 2007
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No luck here, did break a rubber grippy thing with it :D
But, did leave it long in the freezer too ^_^

I think amount of glue will vary a lot, it just depends how liberal the chinese kid was with the glue brush :D

I've found with some other lights (MTE rebels), that if there's a lot of glue on just one line of thread, say half round, it will really really jam up the whole thing. Cause it becomes a hard half ring of glue that jams it even if it's no longer adhesing to either part.

I -hate- glue :D


If you get it open, make sure you clean the threads well, The tiny amount of glue used is tough stuff. If even a spec remains, the head won't screw on properly. (I took a pic of the removed adhesive because it's unusual stuff, I have no clue what type of adhesive it is, all I know is it can be defeated)
I told another buddy out of State that this is a decent light, so I took pics of the process to remove the head with the freezer trick so he can repeat the process, since he's a fellow staff member at overclockers.com, he's well versed in the freezer trick, he'll get the top of easy enough as I've done.

This is the picture I took of how much adhesive was used, as you can see, it's not much, as I said a few times, this light's head was torqued tight when manufactured, that's why it's difficult to remove, especially since so little adhesive is used.

glue_from_VB-16.jpg



I should start a non profit VB-16 head removal service, being that people are still having trouble removing the VB-16's top. There's one member here at CPF's that's going on vacation in the coming weeks and will be 20 minutes from me while on vacation, I told him to stop by and I'll remove the top for him. :)
 

Mash

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Dec 18, 2006
Messages
378
Asked this awhile ago in another thread but didnt get an answer, so will ask here again:
Why do the manufacturers glue the heads on anyway?
What is it they are trying to gain by doing this? I know prob the majority of their intended customers arent CPFers or modders, so are they trying to stop people treating them like old incans and trying to change the "bulbs" etc !!!!?????
 

katsyonak

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May 9, 2007
Messages
277
I don't think they care much about modders. Think it's because sometimes screwing the head can change the focus and/or shorten the LED on some lights.
 
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