mitch79
Newly Enlightened
I'm interested to see if efficiency has improved on low/medium settings with this 17mm revision.
Just ordered one
Just ordered one
I'm interested to see if efficiency has improved on low/medium settings with this 17mm revision.
Just ordered one
Its is to good to be true. :mecry:
But 83,5% is good enough for me
I have measured the thing and I have to say I like it.
Unlike I have read somewhere else these drivers do have a memory function.
They will start working from 4,7Volts, they will stop working at 4,0Volts than the driver goes into a verry verry low mode (3mA to the led).
I did'nt see any flickering
Well here are the measurements in a excel file.
All measurements where made with calibrated meters.
Greetz Johan
There's not enough space between the switch and heatsink unfortunately.I don't know if it works but you can file down the driver a little bit and put it in vertically
I agree CW. The problem is I have yet to find any other P7 driver that will fit in a "C" Mag powered by 2x Li-Ion.
I'm using one of Der Wichtel's drivers in my "D" mag but it won't physically fit in the smaller "C" tube.
If there's a better driver out there, the someone tell me please.
Oh bugger, that doesn't sound good. You've got the new 17mm type too.My problem exactly, I love the Small Form Factor of my 2C M*g, but the cheap 17mm buck driver that I have shuts down after 5min. use.
Looking at Aircraft800's previous post, the area marked as getting hot looks like a pair of diodes. Now why would a pair of diodes be getting hot?
Methinks the full 2.8A current is passing through them and their being pushed right to the edge of their current handling ability.
The other question is what are they being used for? Is it just reverse polarity protection? If so I'd be happy to remove them.
Anyone here with more electronics experience than me who can nut out this circuit and tell us what's happening?
EDIT: Googling "SS34" indicates it's a 3A 40V Schottky diode. Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Mitch.
Looking at Aircraft800's previous post, the area marked as getting hot looks like a pair of diodes. Now why would a pair of diodes be getting hot?
Methinks the full 2.8A current is passing through them and their being pushed right to the edge of their current handling ability.
The other question is what are they being used for? Is it just reverse polarity protection? If so I'd be happy to remove them.
Anyone here with more electronics experience than me who can nut out this circuit and tell us what's happening?
EDIT: Googling "SS34" indicates it's a 3A 40V Schottky diode. Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Mitch.
Really? $12 is expensive in comparison to the the rest of the light? In my opinion, ALL of these driver boards I've found are a steal! Even the best D2DIM is only $20.
Let's say you were going to make a Mag 3D P7 light:
$20 Mag 3D
$27 P7
$20 heat sink
$12 driver
$36 batteries
$15 MOP reflector
$6 lens
$5 charging jack
$2 thermal adhesive
$3 bicycle tubing
$5 wire
$20 shipping
Total = $171
This $12 driver is only 7% of the overall parts cost, not to mention your time in building it.
If you look at the amount of power lost due to efficiency (or lack of it) if you look at the high setting, this is what I get from your spreadsheet:
Efficiency Power loss
83.5% 2.1152
83.0% 2.0808
82.4% 2.1282
83.5% 2.008
81.3% 2.2855
80.8% 2.3628
79.8% 2.4992
79.0% 2.6214
78.7% 2.6901
77.8% 2.8201
76.6% 3.0174
At best efficiency of 83.5%, 2.1W of power is a lot of heat.
For flashlight use, I think that the thinking has to change for the P7. I'm using a driver with ~92% efficiency and the heat generated due to inefficiency is 33% of that compared to the cheap driver with 83% efficiency. The converter gets very warm dissipating about 830 mW of power but it can be run without a heat sink safely. On the other hand, 2400 mW with the inefficient driver means an early demise for the driver. I think a driver with efficiencies in the low 80's driving a 12W load is a poor design but probably good enough for the masses.