Solarforce L2 = Spiderfire L2

Black Rose said:

I know the answer to this question depends on the type of drop-in used, but in general do these lights throw well?

Click to expand...

Yes, they throw VERY well. Using either a Xenon bulb OR an LED drop-in.

Looks like Solarforce L2 is coming out with a 18650 body and R2 P60 drop-in that is meant for a single cell like the 18650. As KD has a couple as posted at http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=183260

Flashfirstask?later said:

Looks like Solarforce L2 is coming out with a 18650 body and R2 P60 drop-in that is meant for a single cell like the 18650. As KD has a couple as posted at http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=183260

Click to expand...

How about that........wont be long before Lighthound will have this in stock in Lego form.....would make a nice host to some of the longer drop-ins like the FM-D26/Strion....bit of luck I will be able to buy it without the R2 pill......yeah, good news this.

Anyhone happen to have a Solarforce L2 5-mode Q5 model?

If so, does it remember the last mode used?

Black Rose said:

does it remember the last mode used?

Click to expand...

From what people say here, it can't even remember its own name.

Black Rose

Yes, I have a SolarForce 5 mode Q5, which I'm going to replace with
the Lumens Factory 3 mode, when they become available. But yes,
mine, at least, has the last mode used memory. Hope that helps.

Black Rose said:

Anyhone happen to have a Solarforce L2 5-mode Q5 model?

If so, does it remember the last mode used?

Click to expand...

FWIW, the R2-M is advertised as having memory and my experience so far has been 100% perfect. So, I'm inclined to believe their marketing specs for this particular aspect.

I took some Beam shots from ~1 meters from the wall. The Solarforce L2 R2-5 modes is the last one...

streetmaster said:

Yes, they throw VERY well. Using either a Xenon bulb OR an LED drop-in.

Click to expand...

How does the throw compare to a Fenix TK11?

Instead of creating a new thread, I'll add this direct comparison in this one.

Based on feedback from others in this thread regarding the SpiderFire X-03 (commonly sold as SpiderFire L2) being the same as the Solarforce L2,
I decided to purchase two SpiderFire P60 hosts to compare against the Solarforce L2 P60 hosts I already own.

I opted to get the models with the 7.4V 10W incan drop-in to keep the cost down, as I was mainly interested in the hosts (but also wanted to dabble in the incan world).

These lights are not being sold as 18650 hosts, but when I asked the seller if they could accept 18650 cells, I was told they could (more on this later).

The lights took 5 days to get to me from Hong Kong, which is how long it normally takes when I order items from there.
In comparison, it usually takes about 12 days to get items from the US :thinking:

The first thing I did when I got these lights was to take them apart to see what the differences were between the Solarforce and the SpiderFire.




The main differences that stood out for me:

• The O-ring in the head of the Solarforce is a unique L-shaped O-ring that the lens sits in.
• The O-ring in the SpiderFire head is your typical O-ring.
• There is a plastic disc that sits between the lens and the bezel on the Solarforce. There is nothing between the lens and the bezel on the SpiderFire.
• The inside of the Solarforce battery tube is polished, the SpiderFire is rough and unpolished.
• The tailcaps are slightly different;
  • the Solarforce tailcap cover takes 14mm replacement covers
  • the SpiderFire tailcap appears to need 16mm replacement covers.
• The tailcap on the SpiderFire is slightly taller than the Solarforce tailcap and the switch seems softer.
• The Solarforce bodies are polished whereas the SpiderFire bodies have more of a matte finish.
• The crenelated bezel ring of the Solarforce will not fit in the SpiderFire, however the crenelated bezel ring of the SpiderFire will fit in the Solarforce.
• There is an extra row of threads on the Solarforce tailcap.
• The Solarforce L2 battery tube is a 2 piece unit that can be unscrewed. The SpiderFire X-03 battery tube is a one piece unit.

Pros:

• Tailcaps and heads are interchangeable between the two bodies (see pics below).
• If properly machined, the latest SpiderFire X-03 versions are capable of using 18650 cells (see Cons for more on this).

Cons:

• Threads and O-rings were bone dry (SpiderFire X-03).
• No protection between the lens and the bezel (SpiderFire X-03).
• Quality control issues with the SpiderFire X-03;
  • The fluid used during the boring process was allowed to dry in the hosts, resulting in spots inside the tube.
    They were polished out using a dremel tool and a brass brush.
  • One of the lights I received appears to have incomplete machining on the battery tube.
    An 18650 cell can only be inserted 3/4 of the way into the battery tube.
    That body will only accept CR123A, 16340 and 17670 cells.
  • The head of the incomplete light also needed almost 40 minutes of work with a Dremel tool using grinding stones and a polishing brush to remove a nasty burr inside it that prevented P60 drop-ins from being properly inserted.
• The bezel rings are not 100% interchangeable between the Solarforce and the SpiderFire.

OK, time for some photos.

Solarforce L2 (L) and SpiderFire X-03 (R)


Solarforce L2 Tailcap (L) and SpiderFire X-03 Tailcap (R)


Solarforce L2 Bezel (L) and SpiderFire X-03 Bezel (R)


Solarforce L2 Battery Tube (L) and SpiderFire X-03 Battery Tube (R)


Disassembled Solarforce L2 (L) and Disassembled SpiderFire X-03 (R)


Solarforce and SpiderFire Lego






So, are the Solarforce L2 and SpiderFire X-03 identical?
There are subtle differences, but they are very close.

Which one is the better of the two?
Both are capable P60 hosts but IMHO, the Solarforce L2 is the better light in terms of fit and finish.

Hi everyone

I'm so glad I found this forum. I have just purchased a spiderfire x03 from www.lamp4u.com and the service was fantastic but upon delivery the clicky power button was very dodgy. It sometime wouldn't turn on, or if you touched the power button gently it would turn on, or if you shock it gently it would turn on... you get the picture.

I suffer from an eye condition whereby I can't see very well in the dark so I'm constantly relying on bright torches and I have to say this is the best I've tried so far as it's both very bright, lightweight and fit in my pocket.

Could you answer a couple of questions for me please?

1) lamp4u.com are sending me out a replacement clicky part but how do I remove the one that's in there? My eye sight isn't the best but looking into the cap I can see what looks like two screws? Am I seeing right?

2) Does it have two modes ie click it once and it goes to half power, click it again and it goes to full brightness? If so, is this part of the clicky bit as currently it doesn't do it.

Many thanks for your time.

carrtim1 said:

Could you answer a couple of questions for me please?

1) lamp4u.com are sending me out a replacement clicky part but how do I remove the one that's in there? My eye sight isn't the best but looking into the cap I can see what looks like two screws? Am I seeing right?

Click to expand...

They are not screws but small indents in the retaining ring.
You can use a pointed pair of pliers or spring clip pliers to remove the ring and take out the switch. Put the new switch in and screw the retaining ring back in.

2) Does it have two modes ie click it once and it goes to half power, click it again and it goes to full brightness? If so, is this part of the clicky bit as currently it doesn't do it.

Click to expand...

The standard clicky that ships with the light is simply on or off.