maglite easily scratched ?

Using my maglite I found that is easy to scratch it ...
It's not a problem, I'm only curious..
There is a way to remove or cover scratches? There will be any corrosion where the body is scratched?

Scatches are part of the history of a light and whilst a surface finish like an anodised HA111 will resist scatches quite well the cheaper and less durable coating used on Mags is HA11.

There is nothing to be done to protect the light from acquiring scratches although I'm sure if you used the large rubber filter cover on the bezel of Mags and a neoprene sleeve such as made by Niteize you could dramatically slow the process.

There are some paints out there that will cover the HA11 anodising but all are easily damaged and none will last long. I have had reasonable results using a Black BBQ paint on Minimags but you do spend a lot of time disassembling the light and masking it up prior to baking the paint on. The paint is reasonably durable but IMHO isn't worth the time and effort as it will eventually still scratch. If you use or own a black Mag you can always use a felt tipped pen to cover scratches but it will still wear off eventually.

Mags are usually bought as tools and as such are not worried about when they become scratched. In fact I would feel llike I'd got the wrong tool if my Mags didn't look used?

As to corrosion? Well theoretically they would be more prone to sulphating when the surface is left bare but in practice unless used underwater or in salt laden atmospheres it is not an issue.

Finally, Mags are relatively cheap and easy to replace if the cosmetics are too bad for you to abide. If you can't stand damage showing then either get a plastic bodied light or one in HA111.

Doug

As Doug says, just live with it. All lights get scratched with use, and it doesn't do any harm.

ABTOMAT said:

As Doug says, just live with it. All lights get scratched with use, and it doesn't do any harm.

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Now is that a black maglite with lotsa scratches or a silver maglite with black dirt....hahah...

I like the switch.:huh2:

Karl

Isn't that a Kel-Lite?

Anyway, a black sharpie can cover small scratches. My oldest light is a minimag, and it's not scratched too badly, even after 12 years of field use.

I'm currently trying out a spray by Krylon-- it's black, non-skid, and feels like 220-grit sandpaper on the light. I think it also comes in clear. I'll let you guys know how it works out. I also have a glass lens installed, LED Lux bulb from a Sears 3AAA tool light, and a dowel set in the tail to be used as a glass breaker for auto emergencies...

greenLED said:

Isn't that a Kel-Lite?

Anyway, a black sharpie can cover small scratches. My oldest light is a minimag, and it's not scratched too badly, even after 12 years of field use.

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Sharpies smell, and don't match very well. It dulls and black you mark over. A better option is a paint marker.

My very oldest light that I still own is a black 2D Mag that my father-in-law gave me for Christmas about 12 years ago. It isn't perfect, but it doesn't look horrible. If you are that concerned about scratches, get something like the Dorcy 3D Super 1W that is covered about 80% in rubber. Or just get a new one every year or so. They're only like $8-$15. After a year with good use, you've probably spent hundreds of dollars in batteries so picking up another light shouldn't be out of the question.

On more customized lights, perhaps a Minimag with a custom reflector and a Lux III pill, to me, that's one of the attractions of the Minimag host... If it gets scratched up or dropped or something, spend $8 and you have a new light in perfect condition. Can't really say the same about a Surefire E2E.

Here's a pic with the Krylon coat. I think it looks and feels great, but may not last due to how hard it is to simply spray over aluminum without any sort of surface priming... at the end it the windrow breaker.

Inferno, the end cap protrustion/windowbreaker, is that factory or a mod?

Mod; I went to a hardware store and picked up some dowel sets. They're basically short sections of rod with a flange around the top and a spike on the end. They're used for marking dowel points in wood, you pop them in the hole then tap them into the other piece of wood to see where to drill for the connecting dowel. Cheap, too! I drilled a hole through the bottom of the cap, stepping up the bit size gradually as to keep the hole centered, and then just popped it in place. I put silicon epoxy (Shoe Goo, actually) on the inside for shock resistance so it won't fall out while trying to break my way out of a burning truck ^_^...

Actually Aluminum has an interesting property. Bare Aluminum when exposed to air will quickly oxidize to form Aluminum Oxide, a clear, very hard coating that is very protective in itself.

D_A

P.S. All HA coatings are Type III, Type II is not an HA coating.

The finish on Mags is purtyer, but yes it's less durable.

Kinda like blueing vs. parkerizing.

Aluminum Black



Discussed in this thread.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/97010&highlight=aluminum+paint

Inferno, that mod works! Yours is only the second one I've ever seen. Good idea.

Thanks! As soon as I find my ex's car, I'll let you know how good the window punch works...

Over here in the UK the window punch idea would almost certainly get you arrested for possession of an offensive weapon! Sheesh!

Doug

Inferno said:

Thanks! As soon as I find my ex's car, I'll let you know how good the window punch works...

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