Window Breaker Tail Cap

Inferno introduced a tail cap rescue mod on a different thread for breaking car windows. I thought a great idea for first responders and prepared types alike. My ready access vehicle lights are the larger Maglites for that purpose. Should you ever need this ability you want your tool to work quickly and not be flailing away with a lesser tool.

Inferno's mod:



https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/102605


Another prototype found, but haven't found a supplier:



http://www.imagometrics.com/FLReviews/FL_Stuff.htm


I would like to find a mod'd tail cap because it greatly enhances the ability to penetrate windows by concentrating the force to a single point which starts the break. Are these mods commercially available?

Found a patent, but no supplier yet.
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6199997.html

I use this..



http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=KN069&cat=2939

Smith & Wesson® First Responder

* Stainless steel serrated blade with a screwdriver tip
* Spring loaded window punch
* Thumb stud for one-hand opening
* Locking blade
* 8" open; 4-1/2" closed


Seriously though, while I think the windowbreaker is a good mod, I think that the force of a 3d mag against glass would be enough to break it.

But to answer your question, I have no idea.

A 3D on automotive glass should work fine. I'm thinking of other window materials particularly polycarbonate, it's more difficult to breach. I'm often around aviation, marine, and recreation vehicles.

IMHO, the finest tool for breaking a tempered window is an automatic center punch (essentially what is in the mentioned First Responder), like the one Harbor Freight always has on sale for $2.50.

I wouldn't go bashing incandescent lights against things without expecting to change the bulbs (yes, the one in the tailcap too) afterwards.

The light shown has an LED bulb, which is a bit more resistant to shock... I would only use the window punch as a last-ditch measure as I already have one on my knife. I guess it was more of a "wanted-to-know-if-it-would-work" mod...

On automotive side glass there is a spot about 2 inches from the door frame, and 2 inches above the metal of the door that facillitates easy breakage. Hitting in the center of the window allows too much dipersion of energy, and the vibration.

It's important to remember that these punches *ONLY* work on the tempered glass found in most automobile side and rear windows. They don't work on front glass, plastic or anything that is not designed to shatter into little pieces.

The First Responder knife is nice and the punch works but a $3.00 center punch will do about four windows for every one of the FR because you have to manually **** it or pull it back.

Front glass is usually cut out with an axe, although there are some special tools that will do this. (Or you cut the posts and flip the roof forward saving a step)

This is similar to the one I carry at work. At autoextrication class, the Fed Fire guys had the S&W Responder knife-- and it wouldn't bust the windows! I pulled out my Eichorn-Sollingen rescue knife (above) and promptly knocked out the windows with ease. From there on out, it was all post cutting and roof rolls. Real fun stuff, especially when you're imagining it's your ex's car you're tearing up with the Hurst tools... :devil:

Inferno said:

This is similar to the one I carry at work. At autoextrication class, the Fed Fire guys had the S&W Responder knife-- and it wouldn't bust the windows! I pulled out my Eichorn-Sollingen rescue knife (above) and promptly knocked out the windows with ease. From there on out, it was all post cutting and roof rolls. Real fun stuff, especially when you're imagining it's your ex's car you're tearing up with the Hurst tools... :devil:

Click to expand...

If your's does not have to be cocked as the S&W does, it is a better design but I've taken out a lot of windows with the S&W.

Well, my guess is that the spring was old on their knife, or they kept it compressed all the time. One thing I do love about spring-loaded punches is the ability to bust glass under water, where you may not be able to generate a nice swing...

Ive got a few of the spring loaded auto-punches.. i haven't busted out too many windows with them, but i've put dents in all kinds of things, and the ball bearing inside always seems to bind up.

there's something called a "lifehammer" that all the SES use here and it smashes windows and cuts seatbelts and all that for under $20. M*glites bust their bulbs when you hit them hard - it's happened to me lots of times.

You'd think a 3xD MagLight would be enough to easily bust a window but I actually BENT one hammering on the side window of a Chevy Lumina once while trying to get to a child locked inside running vehicle. Someone else came up with an ice pick and one little tap ...pshhhh... smashed window.

Not exactly in the same vein but along the same lines. I've found the life hammer a PITA as once it's been used a few times the head becomes mangled and deformed. The tip also becomes blunted!

As others have said the best thing IMHO for side windows on cars is a sprung window punch, they (with a bit of care) last a long time.

Incidentally I've found that breaking through double glazed windows is a doddle if you use a small crow bar. The trick taught to me by a police officer is to use the pronged tip about six inches from a corner. If you've never had to do it before and try to break a dg window by hitting it in the centre you'll usually be a long time waiting.

OBTW in case anyone thinks I get up to some dodgy things I'm a UK paramedic and have often been required to force entries into folks homes to effect a rescue etc.

Doug

I wonder what they used when they "rescued" my car stereo.

Brightnorm, don't worry too much. Nearly all cars are designed so you can kick out the windshield from the inside. It's trying to get in from the outside that can be a real PITA.

"Nearly all cars are designed so you can kick out the windshield from the inside."

Perhaps that explains why so many of our unrestrained patients have no problem "self extricating" through it on impact...

Back to the MAG window punch, I use an LED bulb in mine, so I don't have to worry about bits of glass falling out of the tube after a few whacks...

with the breaker tip in the back, it should be more a punch,
not a swing like a bat (and hitting with the bezel).
Will there really be enough force to risk breaking the bulb?

@mike, as the metal tip on Your knife is not located at the "skull crusher" point, how easy is it to hit glass with it? Do You have to bend Your hand very much?

After using several spring loaded punches that broke themselves I like the one that is a point with a spring and a weighted end http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=FE514 (Galls has them) they work everytime!! Punch the lower front of the window and it all drops straight down. For the windshield a coarse tooth saw is the best thing around. I have never sed one that you have to swing, would worry that I couldn't get enough swing in a tight location. FWIW.