Has anyone else received their lights yet? I would like to find out what everyone thinks of their light.
Chris
Has anyone else received their lights yet? I would like to find out what everyone thinks of their light.
Chris
And some photos and beam shots would be appreciated for those of us (most of us) who have to experience these light vicariously through the few who were fortunate to get them. Thanks![]()
John 1:5 The light shines in the darkness, and the darkness has not overcome it.
I just checked the mail for mine Chris... not
today.
Dag Nabbit i should have bought one of these. I could have, should have....
PM me if ya wanna sell me one!![]()
I may not be that bright, but my lights are!
"I hate when I buy crap, so I try very hard not to sell it."
-Gene Malkoff
OMG, not this again!!!![]()
Carrying a firearm for self-defense gives you great power. Society expects great responsibility from those with great power.
Not here yet, really hope to see it tomorrow, Saturday at the latest.Originally Posted by TnC_Products
Anxious to say the least!
|Nuwai|GLP's|Aleph 3|PR-T w/E2e|Costco HID's|ARC LSH-S| Mr Bulk|Lumaray FL12|PocketMateW|MagHID|Mag85|AWR Nano|Amilite|SFIII Mc38-V|TnC Lithium Lux V XYOS 03/10|Fenix Trio|SuperNova|Illuminator|PGL-III-A's| Gatlight SS V2|Nitrous McLuxIII PD|USL|AN/VSS-3a|FM Ni Plt'd C Mag|FM 3.5" Mag Head|
Expecting like never before.... tomorrow
I would have bucked up for Express overnight given the chance....
Chris, can I use RCR2s in the CR2 tube?
LIGHT TRAVELS AT 186282.397 MILES PER SECOND... ANY FASTER WOULD BE DANGEROUS
No, you can't use RCR2s. Too much voltage.
Chris, I'll tell you how I like the light as soon as you tell me how to get the light module out of the light! I thought the tube was just going to screw out of the head and be easily replaced by the other one, but it appears that the module threads into the battery tube. I see it threads in counter clockwise, so it should easily spin out clockwise, right? Well, I can get the thing to budge. I'm using a snap ring/pin spanner tool to grip the holes, but I just can't get the thing to spin out.
It should be really easy to take out. I put it in by hand tight. So, if you are using pliers then it should come out really easy. Make sure you turn it as if you were trying to tighten it (clockwise)! Try not to push down when you are turning the module. This might help.
I was thinking about sending them is parts so everyone would be able to tell they are left hand threads.
Chris
Originally Posted by Trashman
Actually, I knew which way to spin it because I looked to see which way the threads ran on the CR2 tube. I don't know how you did that by hand! Seriously, I'm putting quite a fair amount of force into it. Maybe, if I try it a little more gently. Let's see....
PICS man PICS, CPF first!
Self second!
Post some pics with a beam shot compared to another well known led, like surefire U2 on high!
![]()
I may not be that bright, but my lights are!
"I hate when I buy crap, so I try very hard not to sell it."
-Gene Malkoff
I don't have a U2, but I can tell you that while running on the 14500, it is not as bright as my SF L4.
Chris, no dice. I can't get the thing to budge. You must have fingers like the incredible hulk, because, using pliers (pin spanner), I couldn't get the thing to budge, and I used quite a bit of force. What do you think, stick it in a couple of zip locks and drop it in some hot water? I'd hate to have to send it back to you get it off, but I think I'd hate even more to break it!
My 3 Watt head came out very easy. Are you turning the head clockwise to remove?
Turn right to remove. Turn left to install.
Last edited by ernsanada; 03-02-2006 at 09:33 PM.
Yes, I'm turning clockwise. I've actually used enough force to put little dents on the outer edge of the pin holes. Unfortunately, after trying a different set of pins (the pliers have 4 or 5 sets), I retried it with the wrong ones, and put small scuffs on the bottom of the plastic of the LED, and some tiny scratches on the sides of the dome. While the scratches and scuffs are hardly noticeable, my light is less than perfect, now. I guess it's going to be a user...
Anyway, I'm going to run the light long enough for it to heat up, and I'll try it again. Seriously, that thing doesn't want to budge, it doesn't spin in either direction (I tried a back and forth motion).
Edit: Got it!
Last edited by Trashman; 03-02-2006 at 09:39 PM.
Ok, it is much brighter with the 2 CR2 tube. The CR2 tube is an absolutely perfect fit for the batteries. When I drop the batteries in, they actually slide in very slowly. (just like Fivemega's battery adapters do). It's really hard to tell if it's brighter than my L4. Maybe , just a little, but in a package that's about half the size. It actually appears to be a little more floodly than my L4, but again, it's really hard to tell because they're of different tints. I'm going to have to say that it's about as bright as I expected, only I expected I might be a little bit disappointed if it wasn't a lot brighter than the 5w lights I already have, but due to it's small size, I am not! It's a keeper.
If didn't have the snap ring pliers, I'd never have gotten the module out, never. I put as much force as I could, without luck. Even after I left it on and it got nice and hot, I still had to grip the body of the light bicycle grip style and twist with a lot of force. Also, the spring on the CR2 end cap needs to be stretched out in order to make contact, or at least mine did.
BTW, Chris, thanks for the holster! I didn't know it was going to come with one of those. I've always been a pocket carry kind of person, but I might actually use this holster. It looks like it's made in San Dimas, too, right around the corner! What a small world. Speaking of made in San Dimas, guess what else is made there? Louis Vuitton! I made a delivery to the place, "Louis Vuitton U.S. Manufacturing, Inc.". It's right on West Covina BLVD, right by the freeway (321 W.C. Blvd, to be exact, right on the curve between W.C. Blvd and Cataract). Not that I'm all into Louis Vuitton, but I know people who are and they never believe me. After seeing that the stuff was being made just 3 miles from my house, it suddenly seemed less fancy. I even asked the women in the office if that was where all the LV stuff was made, and she said, "most of it". The main office has a window into the work area, and through it, I could see a lot of purses being made. One thing that, I guess, is somewhat impressive, is that I could see a women stitching stuff by hand, so if they're claiming the stuff is hand made, they aren't lying. I guess it's better that the stuff is made in San Dimas, CA (USA!) rather than China (like the Coach bags are).
Edit:
Chris, have you tried these with any W binned LEDs? Do they perform any worse (less) than the X-Bins, in this light? A WWOS might be a sweet choice!
Last edited by Trashman; 03-02-2006 at 10:34 PM.
Glad to see that you're happy with the LL-V flashlight TM. I can imagine one's expectations for an X-binned light. Mine would certainly be high. Hopefully we'll see others thoughts on their little TNC jewels. I would love to see a few beamshots from these flashlights.
Gentlemen, you can't fight in here.. This is the war room!!
Checking in is Lithium-Lux V #5 of 10.
The package was brought in by my wife and she tossed it on the sectional in the living room. Then she went to eat lunch in the kitchen. I walked by the sectional about 30 minutes later and saw a manila mailer lying on the chair from TnC. I had to do a double take and wondered for a minute how the package got there and how long the package was in the house. All packages should be checked though me as soon as they get here. She should know that by now.
This light is nice. I expected the light bodies to be the same length as the Key-Lux AA. I expected the CR2 body to look different but it is identical to the AA body. And I expected to get a 2xCR2 body but not two tail caps.
The holster is a very nice RipOffs.
I will proudly carry this wonder light. It has a beautiful beam and is a solid build. I can tell that the Lithium-Lux V light spot beam is bigger and the spill beam is much brighter then the Key-Lux 350mA.
No beam shots available because it is the middle of the day.
Edit. Where is my manners? THANK YOU, TnC.
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Last edited by TrueBlue; 03-03-2006 at 02:39 PM.
Just finished stalking the mailman in my neighborhood and he gave me the package.
ALERT: When swapping tubes you need to unscrew the LED/heatsink which is threaded COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
I'll post some beamshots in a bit. I have a perfect comparison light to put it up against. My repaired and favorite Aleph BB400 Wbin 5W through an A19 Reflector . (A19 Link in sigline below)
First impression is that it is brighter. So we'll see. And I'll get some LUX reading to compare numbers. Any requests for side by side pics?
Last edited by CroMAGnet; 03-03-2006 at 03:16 PM.
Tiger11 & 74|Lambda MiniPro MicroPill|S2K LUX3 Solitaire|Aleph NG1000-A1 A2 A3 A19|McLuxTK|McLux-III PD
Beamshots|Jil.DD|Q3R|RAW U |CR2 Ion & |NEOCA Wood|Orange Minitrios|Key-Lux N|My Collection
CPF NightHikes or Day|CPF get-together|Headlamps|Costco 35w HiD|Commando II|McFlood mmmMag|The USL!
LINK to the DRACO Interest THREAD and Payment Thread for the SMALLEST/BRIGHTEST limited production light in its class.
CroMAGnet
Yes,
B....E.....A.....M......S......H......O......T.... .S....![]()
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All I have to play with tonight is my XeVision 50W HID that showed up today.... Poor me![]()
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I may not be that bright, but my lights are!
"I hate when I buy crap, so I try very hard not to sell it."
-Gene Malkoff
Chris ,
I sent you a PM.
Ken
I got #7 and I am going to try it out in a few. X bin baby!
Ken
Man, that thing is bright! I wonder if mine is that bright? I mean, it's bright, but somehow, your pics make that one look a lot brighter (than mine). I think I'd like to see a good L4 in one of the frames. That'd be the best comparison for me. My lith-lux appears to be very similar in brightness to my L4.
BTW, I was just about to say that I'm lovin' mine.... until, I saw you pics! Maybe, it's just the "crybaby syndrome" (hey, yours is brighter...waaaah) wanting to take hold, but even your 14500 pic is looking really bright. On a 14500, the my Lith-Lux is not as bright as any of my other 5w lights, but your pics makes it look pretty darn impressive.hmmm... Is that a wide angle lens you're using, or are you really standing kinda far back?
Last edited by Trashman; 03-04-2006 at 12:33 AM.
OKay! Just finished taking a lot of pictures and I'll post them in a few minutes as I download etc.
BTW I have shots against an A19 which is just like the L4 that I compared with JimH's L4 but a bit brighter.
BBIAF
Tiger11 & 74|Lambda MiniPro MicroPill|S2K LUX3 Solitaire|Aleph NG1000-A1 A2 A3 A19|McLuxTK|McLux-III PD
Beamshots|Jil.DD|Q3R|RAW U |CR2 Ion & |NEOCA Wood|Orange Minitrios|Key-Lux N|My Collection
CPF NightHikes or Day|CPF get-together|Headlamps|Costco 35w HiD|Commando II|McFlood mmmMag|The USL!
LINK to the DRACO Interest THREAD and Payment Thread for the SMALLEST/BRIGHTEST limited production light in its class.
First I need to apologize for the terrible pics. My good camera is in the shop and this crappy one is just crappy. I fixed the color but couldn't get any sharper images. Also there is no manual so you can only compare the beamshots in each picture not against other pics. In the end it doesn't really do it justice. But here ya go.
Business end
For reference, next to a mag 2D and a CD of Bat out of hell
Beamshots!
Stock Mag 2D vs Xbin Lux V
Fenix L1P 2.5 vs Xbin
KeyLux Ncell on steroids LiON vs Xbin
A19 with TWOK 3W NG1000 vs Xbin CR2
A19 with WX1s BB400 vs Xbin LiON
Note that I used the LiON 14500 in that last pic and the CR2 in the 2nd last pic. It's hard to tell with this atuomatic exposure camera but the Xbin puts way more light down over the NG1000 and also bests the WX1S BB400 in output and throw.
LUX Readings:
L1P 2.5 = 650 LUX @ 1 meter
BB400 = 450 LUX @ 1m
NG1000 = 650 LUX @ 1m
Xbin LiON 14500 = 450 LUX @1m
Xbin CR2 x2 = 530 LUX @ 1m
NOTE: I spoke to Chris today and thanks him for making a beautiful light. The beam is as snow white as I've ever seen. An the design, heatsinking and tolerances are first rate. I mean this thing doesn't even get hot. I measured 800mA draw on CR2s and only a bit less on the 14500, to my surprise. The fit it excellent and the reflector is the nicest tiny reflector I've ever seen. Where do you get those Chris??
The two things that this light needs are.
A custom tool included and designed to swap tubes. The heatsink is so nice and smooth and turns out clockwise using some prongs to spin it out. So a specific tool for this would be great.
The other thing that would be great to make this more usable as an EDC is two levels. A low low would really go far with an xBin. It looks pretty efficient.
Two questions, for chris. Have you done any runtime tests and what is this bin designed to run at spec?
Tiger11 & 74|Lambda MiniPro MicroPill|S2K LUX3 Solitaire|Aleph NG1000-A1 A2 A3 A19|McLuxTK|McLux-III PD
Beamshots|Jil.DD|Q3R|RAW U |CR2 Ion & |NEOCA Wood|Orange Minitrios|Key-Lux N|My Collection
CPF NightHikes or Day|CPF get-together|Headlamps|Costco 35w HiD|Commando II|McFlood mmmMag|The USL!
LINK to the DRACO Interest THREAD and Payment Thread for the SMALLEST/BRIGHTEST limited production light in its class.
The camera is set at the widest angle so the tree would look farther away. The orange tree base is 25 feet away. The Lith-Lux has a very wide and full beam so the wide angle camera setting gives a breath taking view. The wide beam angle and the camera wide angle lens match.
I could compare the Lith-Lux to the SF L4 tonight. That might be a better point of reference. Tonight I’ll give the comparison a try, CroMAGnet.
The little light has an impressive output. It is not a throwing beam. Again, it is a very rich and wide beam. Take a night walk with this light and it will give a totally different view of the world.
A great option would have be a mini Turbo Head. A Turbo Head would be so easy to mount since the Lith-Lux light engine is located in the body. A Turbo Head would be a simple screw on attachment. A nice Aleph reflector behind the awesome emitter and the TnC great eye for designing a slick looking head would be an excellent combination for this small super light.
The light is also great for candle mode. Forget the word candle mode; it is WTF mode.
I’ll see about an L4 beam shot. They would both be flood beam and would be great to compare next to each other. For the size of the lights I know the Lith-Lux will beat the L4.
OH, a changing tool is a good idea. Using my big and scary looking clip retaining tool to remove the converter that is next to the rare emitter is scary.
You think that's scary...I actually used snap ring pliers, and still, I turned them and the light as hard as I actually could (full force). One slip could have been perilous. I wish it would have occurred to me to leave the light on until it got really hot first before trying to losen the heatsink/LE.
Trueblue, were you using a flash? The grass is so well lit that it looks like you've got a stadium light up above.
I almost thought about finding a plastic ring to put around the emitter to protect it when I pull out the light engine.
No flash. The little reflector gives such a wide angle beam it lights up a big portion of my back yard. Impressive, isn’t it?
You did manage to get your light engine out, right?
If I get some time at work I will try to make some tools to make it easier to take out the module.
The reflector in this light is custom made by me. Now, lets see, the easiest and quickest way to make a new turbo head for this light is to get a reflector that works great with a 5-watt LED! I am completely out of reflectors so it would be much quicker to use one that works good.
I am open to any suggestions on a really good 5-watt reflector.
Chris
CroMAGnet
Thanks for the pictures. They are always fun to see when someone takes the time do all that. I saw you checked the current draw. Did you or anybody check the voltage out?
Ken