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Thread: Some questions about the Shark driver

  1. #61
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Nereus, so this 0,10 ohm resistor is not a sense resistor like in Waynes other converters. Otherwise you would have to raise the resistance to achieve a higher current to the LED. Right?

    Ken

    Notice the , instead of .

  2. #62
    Flashaholic* Nereus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Shark is a bit different story compared to other Shoppe converters. The output current is primarily set by a small potentiometer on the circuit board. However, there is upper limit for the current and that is set by the resistor. And when it comes to setting the upper limit the resistor acts just like any sense resistor. The only difference is the fact that it only kicks in when the current is about to exceed the limit.

    For Shark, the formula for the max current is Current=0,1/Rsense. E.g. 0,05 ohm sense resistor puts the upper limit to 2 amps. But if the potentiometer is set to some lower output current value, say 1,5 amps, then that is going to be the output current.

    Hope this helps

    -N
    My mods. Please post questions about my mods to the corresponding thread: like that all CPFers can get the info - thanks!

  3. #63
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I have 3 SSC P4 emitters wired in series to the shark ......will this work ok without overdriving the LEDs?
    I just want to be sure this will work fine before going any further.
    Last edited by DaFABRICATA; 02-24-2007 at 06:49 AM.

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    If you haven`t changed the resistor which you stated in in an earlier post you were not, then even if the trimpot was turned all the way up the most the current be about 1 amp. I think it is actually 980ma but,..... what`s 20ma?!? Don`t hook up a series of batteries that is higher in voltage than the total vf of the string of LED`s. I believe two Li-ons would be great. I`m still learning about these drivers but I am 99% sure I know.......... Nothing!


    Ken

  5. #65
    Flashaholic* 65535's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    From my rather extensive talks with wayne about using a shark in a tri cree mod, I would say this is about the most versatile board around, great UI and user friendliness.

    So for 3 LED's you recommend J1 jumpering it? and using the trim pot (hall sensor) to change output current? And it will limit the voltage to only what is required to drive the LED at such a voltage.
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  6. #66
    *Flashaholic* wquiles's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Has anyone used the Shark to drive a single 5W LED from a single 18650 LiIon cell? Would this work at, say at about 1Amp drive?

    Will
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  7. #67
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I used one to drive a Lux5 off of 3D cells, pretty close to an 18650 in terms of voltage, with no problem.

  8. #68
    *Flashaholic* wquiles's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Quote Originally Posted by DonShock
    I used one to drive a Lux5 off of 3D cells, pretty close to an 18650 in terms of voltage, with no problem.
    Thanks

    Will
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  9. #69
    Flashaholic* chanamasala's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Is there a positive contact pad on the other side of the circuit board? Are the edges ground?

  10. #70
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Quote Originally Posted by chanamasala
    Is there a positive contact pad on the other side of the circuit board? Are the edges ground?
    No and No. There are two holes to solder wires into.

  11. #71
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Looks like they're back in stock! Mine should be arriving today.
    Last edited by luminari; 03-13-2007 at 03:06 PM.

  12. #72
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Quote Originally Posted by dat2zip
    The primary current sense resistor is a 0.1 ohm resistor which sets the upper end of the current to 1A. Cutting this value to 1/2 would increase the upper current limit to 2A for example. I would solder a 0.05 0603 in place of the current 0.1 ohm sense resistor.
    Wayne
    Hi Wayne, I'm looking forward to getting my first shark today. I was wondering, will you consider selling Sharks with this sense resistor replaced with a .05 ohm resistor soldered in place from the factory? Also, if properly heatsinked, will the 2 amp board function normally (e.g. within specs) and exhibit a similar lifespan as a 1 amp Shark?

    That would be great with new LEDs being released that can handle higher current, and would help "future-proof" our purchases. I'm a bit leery of screwing up when soldering such small resistors as I need this thing to be bulletproof! Thanks for making this product!

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Ok, board is all wired up and ready to go. Except it's still at the 980mA limit.

    Could someone tell me which resistor is the sense resistor so I can replace it myself? I know Wayne and the Ms. SS are busy people.

  14. #74

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    The sense resistor in the wiring diagram is next to the arrow pointing to LED+. It's to the left of the arrow head and LED+ hole.

    The easiest way to make a 0.05 is to solder another 0.1 on top of the existing 0.1 ohm sense resistor.

    Removing SMT parts is hard.

  15. #75
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Ok, thanks Wayne.

    Will running at 2A output shorten the life of the Shark (assuming I heatsink it properly)?

    Also, will you consider selling a shark with this resistor replaced to a .05 ohm and the pot removed or unsoldered? My Paypal is ready!

  16. #76

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Wayne, could you confirm that computing the resistor values for this Shark board is different from the Badboys/DownBoys? 0.05 Ohm was the sense resistor value for 1A (2x 0.10 Ohm) in those boards, now for the Shark, 2x 0.10 Ohm = 0.05 Ohm is the value for 2A output?
    Sorry, I've read your posts above, just wanted to confirm before blowing anything up!
    Thanks!

  17. #77

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I saw some questions regarding soldering to the Shark and though I'm no expert I have found a method that works, particularly when you want the wires to the LED to exit from the bottom of the Shark board and through a heatsink, meaning that you are soldering the wires on the top of the board in the middle of the circuitry. After some trial and error and having to unshort everything in the general vicinity of the LED+ LED- connections with desoldering wick, I came up with an easy clean method that works well for me.

    I've been using solid copper wire (18 or 20AWG), and I first put the Shark into a third hand to hold it, then touch the soldering iron to the BOTTOM of the board where the LED+ or LED+ wire enters. I then insert the solder into the LED+ or LED- hole from the top of the board so that a bit of solder melts (soldering iron is at the bottom of the hole) and partially fills the through-hole. I do this for both holes (LED+ and LED-) so they each have some solder partially filling the hole. I then strip my wires (I strip them just a bit longer than the thickness of the board), push the stripped end of the wire against the bottom of the LED+ / LED- hole on the bottom of the Shark where it is to enter, and then put the tip of the soldering iron against the stripped portion of the wire. In about 2 seconds, the solder in the hole melts, the wire pushes in up to the insulation, and you have a 'perfect' solder on the top of the board without shorting everything out. If too much wire is protruding on the top of the board, I simply trim it a bit. This method is fast, easy, and works every time...cut my Sharking soldering time from about 20 minutes (about 15 minutes of cleaning up potential shorts) to under 5 minutes with better results. Again, I'm not an expert at this but thought I'd share what works for me.

  18. #78
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Cool, thanks for the tips, ghadlock!

    I'm mainly a bit concerned about desoldering that tiny potentiometer built onto the circuit board. One slip of the iron and the board is toast.

    Does anyone know how many wipes that built-in pot is good for? Maybe I should just leave it alone and drill a hole in the light for occasional adjustments.

  19. #79
    Flashaholic* DUQ's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I wouldnt swipe that pot more than a few times.
    LED's impress but Incans satisfy

  20. #80
    Flashaholic* Nereus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    +1 to the comment above by Duq - IIRC the potentiometer is rated for only few dozens of swipes (say, ~20 swipes). It is designed for one-time permanent setting of the output current and then it should be left untouched.

    -N
    My mods. Please post questions about my mods to the corresponding thread: like that all CPFers can get the info - thanks!

  21. #81

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Just one swipe needed for me...all the way counterclockwise!

  22. #82
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Doh! I guess I better replace that thing, then. Do you folks have any advice on desoldering it? I can easily see the two legs, but I'm not sure where the third solder point is.

  23. #83
    Enlightened EatSleepRunBike's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I've seen some members replace the trimmer pot for a switch wired up to resistors, or add a momentary button for a turbo mode. I want to try using a switch but I'm not sure what I should solder the switch/resistors to. There are three contacts for the pot. The wiper is connected directly to the IC. One side is connected directly to the ground, and the last goes through a resistor then to the IC. I know the wiper is an important part to hook up to the switch/resistor, but what should the other side be connected to? Do I have to bridge the two side contacts with a 20K ohm resistor too?

    Also, which is the zener diode, D1 or the big grey thing?
    Eat, sleep, run, bike, what more do you need?

  24. #84
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Luminari,
    Try this site, http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/hdr.php?p=tutorials
    Eat, sleep, run, bike, what more do you need?

  25. #85
    Flashaholic luminari's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    I got a 20k pot, but the problem is that it's totally huge!

    The thing works brilliantly, though! I'm going to spread a thick layer of Arctic Alumina Adhesive over the whole thing board to keep all those tiny wires in place and help pull heat from the main IC and the big coil... That should be fine, right?

  26. #86
    Flashaholic Tidra's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Call me stupid, but I still don't know what is the recommended Vin to drive 4x SSC P4 in series @ 1-1,4A.

    I understand:
    - solder together J1
    - I’ll have to solder additional 0,1 resistor over existing one to get 2A out and then use trim to adjust my desirable Imax
    - recommended heat sink for board

  27. #87

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    The Vf for the 4 P4s in series will be somewhere around 14.4V (3.6V each depending on bin), and the operating voltage should be at least half of this, or 7.2V. The minimum input voltage is around 1/3 of V out, so the minimum voltage should be 4.8V. Since you need at least 7.2V, you'll need at least 6 AA NimH in series (maybe a 2D mag with a 6AA to 2D battery holder?). For heatsinks, the PES2 works OK with the 4 x Seoul configuration though it's a little tough to get the LEDs perfectly placed since they don't fit into the indentions designed for the Luxeon LEDs.

    Also, J1 is already jumpered on new Shark boards so you won't have to worry about that.

    I have a question though- anyone know of a good place to get the 0603 SMT resistor besides Digikey?

  28. #88

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Disregard my question as to where to get the 0603 resistors- I just ordered them from Digikey (10 qty of the 0.1ohm 1% resistors) and paid their $5.00 'handling' fee. Anyhow, I'll have 8 or 9 available should anyone else need one to mod their Shark to provide 2A of output.

  29. #89

    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Is the Shoppe not going to carry anymore 0.1Ohm resistors at all? I thought they still had plenty of selection but just checked and only saw 0.05 and 1.5 Ohm.
    I understand the efforts and issues that come with stocking so many specific parts, but I think the 0.1 Ohm is a "common" mating part to buy with all of Wayne's boards!

  30. #90
    Flashaholic* Nereus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Some questions about the Shark driver

    Quote Originally Posted by ghadlock
    Just one swipe needed for me...all the way counterclockwise!
    ... 1 turn counterclockwise -> 1 amp output, 2 turns counterclockwise -> 2 amp output etc.

    But what happens if you turn clockwise...?

    -N
    Last edited by Nereus; 03-29-2007 at 11:05 AM.
    My mods. Please post questions about my mods to the corresponding thread: like that all CPFers can get the info - thanks!

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