Help me build a ROP

after reading many threads re: the Roar of pelican Mod for Maglights, i have decided to have a go.
what i have:
-4D Mag or 2D mag
-Modamag 6AA battery holder and lots o' NiMh AA batts
-UCL lens

after building a slew of Luxeon powered Mags, i thought i'd try something different.

now what else do i need and where can i buy them?

thanks for the help.

Thanks to your post I now know what ROP stands for. I've been seing it all over but no clue what it meant. And CPF won't let me search on 3-letter words!

See the link below for more info on the ROP

ROP link

Looking at what you have...maybe you should build the 2D as you already have the battery holder for it. You also need a metal reflector , the bulbs (3854 pack), and a charger for those batts! Bear in mind you want high current capable aa's for the 2D, using normal nimh's will lose you some brightness...the cbp1650's will be able to handle it. Or you can use 7 normal aa's in your m@g 2D host. Don't need to bore the m@g, i can't remember but someone found a nifty trick where you could fit 4 aa across without boring (the person did it with 2500 energizers iirc), basically...just have the flap/overlay of the battery shrink/cover all facing inside...but then you'll need the 8aa to 2D holder and a dummy aa.

i also have a 8AA holder, also from Modamag

OK so i can buy the bulbs from Pelican directly or is there a CPF sponsor with them?

basicly i just pop in the bulb, lens and metal reflector and run 8 AA's?

you might also consider modifying the switch to reduce it's resistance
Maglite switch resistance fix

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Recently bought 2 sets of the bulbs from Lighthound. Unfortunately the low wattage bulb in one set was a #3853, not a #3854 low.
This seems to have happened to a couple of other people, guess it's a Pelican factory error. I really can't be bothered making a fuss about such a low cost item, Lighhound is a great dealer and it's something outside his control.

Best of Luck!

PS You'll fry the bulb with 8 AA's (6V bulb, though the #3853 is 7.2V... Hmmmm) if you're using regular AA's try 7 and a dummy. Alternatively run 6 CBP1650's from cheapbatterypacks.com

ROP Homepage

Couple of recommendations.. 6 or 7 consumer-grade AA cells are OK. 8 may be pushing instaflash territory, please have spare bulbs on hand. 6 high current cells are OK. 7 high current cells are instaflash risk. If your cells are NOT specifically designated as high current with amperage ratings, they are not. (CBP1650s are high current).

Bulbs can be had from Lighthound.

Glad to see so many joining us on this journey. The ROP is not just the destination, it's the adventure that goes with building it.. well of course it's pretty fun to get to the destination too

Interesting to know I could try 7AA.

But I find it just TOO COOL to use a 2C M*g with 2x18650!!!

Delvance said:

i can't remember but someone found a nifty trick where you could fit 4 aa across without boring (the person did it with 2500 energizers iirc), basically...just have the flap/overlay of the battery shrink/cover all facing inside...but then you'll need the 8aa to 2D holder and a dummy aa.

Click to expand...

Maybe this is a stupid noob question, but, why can't you just take the wrappers off?

The wrapper serves to isolate the ground to the butt end. If any other part grounds, you don't get full voltage. And MIGHT get fire or other problems!

I have acquired all the components except for the power plant, no rechargeables or charger here, but I happen to have about 800 AA Litiums from the web special and would not mind sacirficing these up for a while to get a ROP off the ground.

So

a: will the AA Litiums handle the current

b: at an average of 1.7v how many to run 5 or 6?

c: if this setup will work, what should I expect for brightness and runtimes

PS I have both Modamag and FM battery adapters in both 6 and 8 cell configurations as well as bored 1D and 2D bodies with LOP and Boro and dummy

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:

The wrapper serves to isolate the ground to the butt end. If any other part grounds, you don't get full voltage. And MIGHT get fire or other problems!

Click to expand...

You mean the metal body of the battery is connected to the negative?

I tried measuring between the + and metal body of a normal alkaline, and got 0 volts. Are the Ni-mh different?

I don't really know RoyJ. I just know that other smarter members have said don't tear the cover, so I don't and caution against it when I speak.

Just so you know, Rayovac 1800 will fit 4 across EASY. Just SEEMS that you have to use an extra cell compared to CBP...

My ROP Hi is definately not as bright on 6AA (Rayovac1800 or Energizer2500) as it is on two 18650 Unprotected Li-Ions. There's almost a half an AMP of difference.

I may try 7AA against my ROP HI, but I'd rather not my one and only example...

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:

Just so you know, Rayovac 1800 will fit 4 across EASY. Just SEEMS that you have to use an extra cell compared to CBP...

My ROP Hi is definately not as bright on 6AA (Rayovac1800 or Energizer2500) as it is on two 18650 Unprotected Li-Ions. There's almost a half an AMP of difference.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice; problem is that it's hard to find cells like 1800 Rayovac or 2100 Energizer/Sony up here.

Current shouldn't be an issue for me, I'm not even building a ROP, just a 2D Mag with a 6D Mag xenon bulb for normal use. I figure Energizer 2500s should give a runtime just short of 3 hrs.

OH!

You can run a 4 cell Krypton bulb on 6AA pretty safely. I do it and 8AA against 6 cell Krypton all the time.

To be really safe, use a 5 cell Krypton. To get a NICE beam, frost your bulb using Armour Etch. If you can't find it, PM me and I'll send you a frosted 5 cell.

I'm pretty much all the time, but it would be the least I could do to "pass it forward"....

ok i ordered my parts.

borafloat lens
Big D bulbs
6AA adapeter for mag D
Heavy stiple cammed relector
Mag 2 D (color undetermined)

last questions i think,
which bulb do i use?
just drop it all in and away we go?

You'll get two bulbs, a round tipped one and a sharp tipped one. The sharp tip draws 4amps and is rated at 24W, that's the high output one. It will say 3854-H on it. The round tipped one draws almost 2A iirc, it will say 3854-L on it, 11 watts and that's the low one. Try both and settle on what you like (Usually that means the high output one haha).

Oh yeah, drop it in and away you go! A previous posts mentions you might want to look at cleaning the M@gswitch for higher output. I'll second that, need to have a soldering iron at least, and some thin wire etc if you want to go the full way.

^^^ thanks!