Inside the Fenix L1P switch

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srvctec

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Thought this might come in handy for those who wanted to know how the clicky for the L1P works. It works just like some ball point pens- as I suspected. The part right under the button mates with the metal part below it and rotates in and out of grooves to make and break contact with the 2 sides of the switch while the actual button does not rotate, being held in place by the grooves in the housing.

Pics are worth a 1,000 words!

FenixSw02ars.jpg


FenixSw05ars.jpg


FenixSw06ars.jpg


FenixSw07ars.jpg


FenixSw09ars.jpg


FenixSw10ars.jpg


FenixSw12ars.jpg


FenixSw13ars.jpg


FenixSw14ars.jpg


FenixSw15ars.jpg



 
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carrot

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Looks simple enough to be fairly reliable. Mine has a red button -- a change in manufacturing, maybe?
 

srvctec

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carrot said:
Looks simple enough to be fairly reliable. Mine has a red button -- a change in manufacturing, maybe?

Actually that's the old [unreliable] style. Mine seemed like it was starting to act up, so I got the new style which has the red button.
 

srvctec

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carrot said:
What's the mechanical difference? (Aside from color, that is.)

Don't know- I don't have a spare red buttoned switch to cannibalize and am not willing to do it to the one on my light. I suspect it may have a stronger spring since my yellow buttoned one seemed like it didn't want to pop back up after operating it- like it was on the verge of sticking, although it never did.
 

DonnyD

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Great pics! Thanks. I also had to replace my "yellow" switch with a new "red" one. It started to stick regularly, but it never actually quit on me, and it never even got worse after the sticking began. I thought that "broken but reliable" was a weird way to be, so I waited about a month before I replaced it :rock: .
 

SuperNinja

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I took apart the switches in a couple of cheap chinese aluminum flashlights in the last couple of days. They used the same type of switching mechanism.
I was able to get them to work much more reliably.
 

leeleefocus

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The switch should be reliable. The spring that returns the switch will be the weak point and i suspect if the switch starts to play up then the spring needs replacing if that is possible. A little bit of silicone lubricant on the plastic bits will probably do the switch a world of good.
 
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Many clickes work like that, even the pull string light switch.
Just for build quality comparison, these are pictures of a tick switch (the type of switch used on TV front panel buttons. Personally, I think this switch is built to much higher quality.

Exterior: 1/2" x 1/2"
omron1.jpg


Components
omron2.jpg


The base has two side contacts for the dome contact to rest on and the center contact. On top, sits a concave shaped "dome contact". followed by rubber gasket, plastic spacer and plastic button.

Base
omron3.jpg

Notice the quality of plastic molding and care thats been put into small details.

OMRON B3W-4000
actuation force 200g
rated for 0.05A 24V
service life: 3 million operations, minimum.

The switches used for LaCrosse BC-900 charger is similar in construction, but they're built right onto the circuit board and the contact surface is similar to the finish used in the switch original poster posted. It became unreliable soon and switching to real tick switches fixed the problem and is doing very well. Reliability of a switch has everything to do with the surface finish of the contacts.
 

thelightdude

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SuperNinja said:
I took apart the switches in a couple of cheap chinese aluminum flashlights in the last couple of days. They used the same type of switching mechanism.
I was able to get them to work much more reliably.

The switch on my L1 and L1P both stick and malfuntion as described above.

I am quite disappointed that Fenix uses a printed circuit foil contact for the positive contact and according to the pictures above also depends on a foil contact for the negative - inside the switch.

A $40 flashlight should have a reliable switch in it.
 
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cloud

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Srvctec, excellent information :thanks:

Btw, the switch mechanism's on both my fenix's feel different to me..( ie.. pressure required to switch on-off ).
perhaps I'll now will take them apart, & apply a little electrical lube, can't see any harm in trying to improve the switch... my only gripe with the lights.
 

cloud

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Just for build quality comparison, these are pictures of a tick switch (the type of switch used on TV front panel buttons. Personally, I think this switch is built to much higher quality.

Exterior: 1/2" x 1/2"
omron1.jpg


Components


Base
details.

OMRON B3W-4000
actuation force 200g
rated for 0.05A 24V
service life: 3 million operations, minimum.

handl.. interesting info.. do ya feel these could be modded into existing tailcaps. have you experience of using these 'tick switches' or similar.

the service life of 3mill operations coupled with short travel actuation operation interests me.

thanks
 

NutSAK

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Thanks for the pics! I've had the switch in a Huntlight FT-01 apart and it is of the same design, as are many reverse-clickies I would assume. The Fenix switch appears to be more robust than the one in the FT-01. The Fenix contact plates and spring are larger.
 

srvctec

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Handlobraesing said:
Many clickes work like that, even the pull string light switch.
Just for build quality comparison, these are pictures of a tick switch (the type of switch used on TV front panel buttons. Personally, I think this switch is built to much higher quality.

OMRON B3W-4000
actuation force 200g
rated for 0.05A 24V
service life: 3 million operations, minimum.

I believe the type you mention are much better, however their main drawback is their extremely low current handling ability. .05A I believe is much less current than the L1P and the majority of lights in this form factor put through the switch and so these could not be used anyway. Besides, I have worked on copiers, printers and fax machines for the last 18 years and have replaced numerous switches of the "tick switch" type made exactly as depicted above.

Handlobraesing said:
Reliability of a switch has everything to do with the surface finish of the contacts.

I agree totally with this statement, however, if the switch can't handle the current flowing through it, then it doesn't matter how good the surface finish is.
 

cloud

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:oops: Thanks srvctec

I didnt read about the rated current switching capacity 0.05amp.. missed that bit myself.. am at bit tired:sleepy:

so it looks like it wont be of use...
 
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srvctec said:
I believe the type you mention are much better, however their main drawback is their extremely low current handling ability. .05A

Yep, it's limiting. I was simply showing a switch from a company with global reputation for making swtiches just so you can see the quality difference. The actual spec is one thing, but you could look at different designs and often time, quality of design or workmanship still shows regardless of size.

Remeber 0.05A is the current rating for guaranteed service life though. In reality, some small switches aren't even rated and classified "general purpose" unless they have to bear a rating for regulatory compliance (i.e. power switch has to be UL rated).

I believe is much less current than the L1P and the majority of lights in this form factor put through the switch and so these could not be used anyway. Besides, I have worked on copiers, printers and fax machines for the last 18 years and have replaced numerous switches of the "tick switch" type made exactly as depicted above.
It's clearly exceeding the spec, but it might survive 1A at 3v as there's not much arc at that voltage. Who knows though. Also, copiers used in locations where service techs have a contract tend to be in an environment with frustrated button masher type users and this maybe a contributing factor to a failure.


I agree totally with this statement, however, if the switch can't handle the current flowing through it, then it doesn't matter how good the surface finish is.

Good is relative. There's an appropriate type of contact mechanism and material depending for each application. Use of generic switch is acceptable and inevitable on a $4.99 cheap light, but there's higher standards of expectation for a flashlight that cost $45.

The relay inside microwave oven switches about a dozen amp of highly inductive load at 120v AC. It cycles on and off every ten second or so if you're using defrost mode or reduced power and it still works fine after tens of thousands of cycles.

Try that with relay contacts made from something like the Fenix switch.
 

4sevens

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Handy,

That switch is completely different than what is on a Fenix. The Fenix is
a latching type. Also, your switch is rated 50ma!!! Typical Fenix
draws 750ma. These are two completely different switches.

It looks like you're baiting - just as you have been in other threads.

I have stated before and will again, I'll replace anyone's switch module
if it's giving problems. If you don't want to replace it yourself, you can send
in the tailcap module.

-4sevens
 
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