L4 output in a smaller package?

Is there a torch available capable of the wall-of-light beam characteristic and brightness level of an L4--stock or simple mod--in a smaller package? Perhaps in a rechargeable single 123A or CR2 format? I'm thinking slimmer bezel relative to the L4 too. To compensate for shorter runtime on high, maybe 2 or more stages?

You have a tough time running an LuxV off a single 123, and if you run a boost circuit to do that, you kill batteries pretty quick!

That said, I am aware of at least one project where another LED option may make that possible.

Watch B/S/T!

Bill

What's wrong with the VB1 and KL4 combo?

GarageBoy said:

What's wrong with the VB1 and KL4 combo?

Click to expand...

Nothing. I run my KL4 on an E1 body often, but at the cost of output. To my eyes, the KL4 on one cell is about half as bright. I have no idea what the runtime is, but I've heard 20 minutes. This is with SF primaries, mind you, I don't know what you might see from rechargeables.

I run a A19 reflector in an Aleph setup using a CR123 LiON or CR2 LiON even. I Doubt a single Primary battery would be able to do this. Also I have them running a WX1S Lux V with BB400 or a TWOK NG1000 or even a couple of custom FluPICs for user set-able levels on-the-fly thanks to Goldserve.

JimH an I did a bunch of comparisons to his L4 and they were very similar beams when using the light. Big broad wall of light.

I'll post some new pics soon. Maybe tomorrow even, since it will coincide with the new Draco Pics.

Click the link on the A19 in my sigline

BTW Welcome to CPF! Hope you stay a while

Err you stick an R123 in a 1 cell body and voila, full run time.

Yes, it can be done, fairly easily.
I use my KL4 on a single cell body, you can do this with a VG1 body or else the single cell Surefire body from an E1L. This works great with the KL4 (L4) when using rechargeable 123's.
You can make that combo work off a two stage switch as well, here is mine (this pic has KL1 instead of KL4 though).

Runtime and output on the KL4/one cell combos?

Bill

KL4 (L4 head) + E1e/E1L body is often referred to as the TW4.

If you run it on a single 3.7v Li-ion RCR123, you should get output equivalent to the L4 on two CR123.

Now I know what TW4 means...thanks Carrot!!

The KL4 regulates on only 3.7 volts?

Assuming a 5 watt draw, that means 1.35 amps at the LED, substantially more at the cell.

But, there's a boost involved too, so I can't quite figure it out. If it's regulating on that tiny cell, regulated runtime must be pretty low!

Bill

bwaites said:

The KL4 regulates on only 3.7 volts?

Assuming a 5 watt draw, that means 1.35 amps at the LED, substantially more at the cell.

But, there's a boost involved too, so I can't quite figure it out. If it's regulating on that tiny cell, regulated runtime must be pretty low!

Bill

Click to expand...

My KL4 had no difference on 2 123 or a Pila 168s.

The current draw means the r123 cell is taxed pretty heavily and have to be monitored to make sure it's not over drained.

This is going from memory as I sold my KL4 over a year ago... (note that an L4 is the same thing as a KL4 head on a 2x123 battery tube)... but...

1. On 2x123 an L4 tends to run for about an hour.

2. On 1x123 the L4 puts out a decent amount of output, but it's significantly dimmer than the 2x123 configuration.

3. SureFire underdrives the LuxV emitter in the L4... I believe it's actually receiving something around 3-3.5 watts.

4. An R123 Li-ion rechargeable may be able to drive close to the 2x123 brightness, but runtime will be maybe 20-30 minutes and you're putting a heck of a beating on the cell due to extreme current draw! oo:

5. IMHO the best way to drive a LuxV is in buck mode off a 3x123 configuration... that way you REDUCE current draw from the cells, and it's still not all that large a light. Even 3xCR2 would be a decent choice!

All the above said, an underdriven LuxV is still a nice, bright, floodsy light source suitable for use up to maybe 20 yards distance. Not bad at all! You could also get this sort of effect by mounting a Fraen LP optic covered with WriteRight in something like an old-style KL1 head... that would be a nice combo for a 1x123 light!

Thanks much for all your responses.

I didn't realize that using a single R123 with a KL4 would result in similar brightness to 2 primaries. Why is this?

I assumed that I'd be looking at less than 30 minutes running at full brightness which is okay by me, but is that bad for the cell? Protected or unprotected?

In most cases I would only have a need for 5 or 10 minutes of maximum brightness between charges anyway with the balance of my usage at a much lower level.

I guess the e1e-Kl4-two stage set up would do the job. But, if I wanted a form factor that is really sleek, tube-like, bezel diameter similar to the body, say 0.8"--would that be possible? I'd like this to lay discretely in the bottom of my pocket.

bwaites said:

Runtime and output on the KL4/one cell combos?

Bill

Click to expand...

I don't have one, but I'm positive past reports have stated around 25 minutes.

I did a runtime test of 23 minutes to 50% with a 700mAh R123 and a KL4 head. With the vF of the KL4 head between 5-6V, you wont be overdriving it.

I love my TW4 combo (Tactical Warehouse combo)

Jeff

The TW4 name came from the tactical warehouse, I never got into calling mine that for the sole reason that they would not ship to Canada, I didn't see it fit to name my prized light after a company that refused to do business with me.
I would call it the "oldgrandpajack special" but that's just too much writing..
Yesterday after reading this I ended up putting my KL4 back on it's two cell body and returning the KL1 back to the 1 cell/McE2s configuration, and for the first time in the countless battery changes I do in a week I put a primary cell in the E1L.. Change is good.

Cobweb Hunter, the only smaller option for the KL4 is to run it off a single Rcr2 battery, runtime is sacrificed again but thats about it for size factor. I have a photo that was emailed to me of that set up, but I wont forward it without permission.
Use protected R123's in the single cell set up, when the KL4 falls out of regulation throw a new one in and off you go, for the tiny cost of the cells it's easy to carry a few.

KL4 + 1 cell body (Surefire, Aleph, Vital gear) + R123 (protected) = Pocket full o' sunshine!

Then you can explore the 2 stage options..
Good luck, your on the right track.

Cobweb Hunter said:

Thanks much for all your responses.

I didn't realize that using a single R123 with a KL4 would result in similar brightness to 2 primaries. Why is this?

I assumed that I'd be looking at less than 30 minutes running at full brightness which is okay by me, but is that bad for the cell? Protected or unprotected?

In most cases I would only have a need for 5 or 10 minutes of maximum brightness between charges anyway with the balance of my usage at a much lower level.

I guess the e1e-Kl4-two stage set up would do the job. But, if I wanted a form factor that is really sleek, tube-like, bezel diameter similar to the body, say 0.8"--would that be possible? I'd like this to lay discretely in the bottom of my pocket.

Click to expand...

The Vital Gear 1x123 clicky tailcap is probably the shortest you'll find. It also has tiny legs that allow it to stand upright.

I'd imagine a tube design (like the Fenix L1P and similar) is possible, but it would most likely be a custom mod... I'm not aware of any production LuxV lights in that form factor.

Hmm... PM me if you're interested! :naughty:

Don't forget the lowly KL4/RCR2 combo.



cheers

powernoodle said:

Don't forget the lowly KL4/RCR2 combo.

cheers

Click to expand...

[size=+2]DUDE![/size]

What is that? Aleph 1xCR2 grip tube and trimmed Aleph dual stage tailcap? Or something completely different?

That's a nice looking setup... do tell!