How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body (See Post #7 for link to image)

Dark Vapor

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Now that I've gotten your attention. . .What I'm about to tell you is nothing new. There are other threads that discussed whether a 14500 or cr123 would provide the 2 level lighting in its respective bodies/tubes. The answers I've concluded, after fiddling around with the various parts, are yes and no; and I thought I'd share it with you all. Your outcome may differ.

14500 battery - the battery is longer than non-rechargeable li-ions (primaries?). I've posted in another thread where if a 18ga solid CU wire was placed in the tailcap (in that thread it was stranded Cu wire), you could tighten both head and cap without much force. However, there was not much of a difference between low and high (or brighter low). Therefore, IMO it was not worth using this battery in the L1T/L2T head. I found it was better to use it in the L2P (with the L1P/L1T body), which I happened to have. It does make it brighter than using 2-AA's.

CR123 battery in the cr123 tube being sold by 4sevens. I received my "other" L1T with cr123 body today from 4sevens. I also "purchased" the modifications to the L1T and cr123 body that 4sevens was offering. At the time of ordering, you had to order both to have the modifications done at the same time. Anyways, the modificatons consisted of removing the anodizing on the threads from one end of the tube and placing solder on the board contacts for the battery and the tube. I only know of one other CPF'er that had done it this way (check other threads relating to L1T/L2T).

At first, I was disappointed because only one level worked when I used the cr123 tube and battery. I had to admit, I tighten both ends more than I should when it didn't work at first, and thought this may have had some detrimental affect on the solder. Then I thought, "wait a minute, let's try the AA battery." When I did, I was really worried now because only low came on! This scared me until I thought of using a battery with less mileage on it. Whew! I thought I would have to spin a story to 4sevens why I needed a replacement.

Now that that I knew I didn't damage the light, I used the cr123 battery again. After twisting the head from low to high, high to low, back and forth, etc., the 2 levels worked like how it was intended. Well, I was thinking of a better method (to me anyway) to "bridge" the cr123 tube and the logic(?) board. This all came about while trying to get the 14500 to work in the L1T (see above).

What I did was solder an 18ga solid Cu wire onto the board, and in essence extending the cr123 body. I tried to use as little solder as possible so as not to have it "run" to other parts of the board. I would recommend the maximum length of wire to make a complete ring that will just fit, and the minimum would be 2 pieces soldered opposite each other and long enough to make good contact between the tube and board. You don't need to place solder on the positive battery contact on the board (check out image on some other thread).

I've played with it for 4.5 hours and the modification had held up - the wire was still in place, and the 2 levels worked perfectly. It also worked with an AA battery as intended by the manufacturer. I compared the brightness between an AA and the cr123 batteries. On high, the cr123 was brighter. As for low, I didn't see any difference to my untrained eyes. I couldn't compare the brightness between the cr123 and 2-AA batteries since I didn't de-anodize the threading on the L2P body (future project). Maybe someone else can do a comparison on the brightness and run time on the latter two batteries.

Remember, the modifications I did was nothing new. I would like to think that I had improved on an idea that many people may have thought about, and me being one of them. If your mod was different and it worked - great, tell us about. It may be a "better mouse trap."

So, if you like having a very pocketable edc with the output of 2-AA's from the cr123 battery, this modification is for you if you already have the parts. Or have 4sevens do the modifications - or not. Your choice. As for me, I like the modifications very much.

You may question why didn't I get the P1. Well, I prefer a "clickie" to a "twistie" and having a light with multi-mode/level/stage/etc. But I do have two twisties: FFIII and Amilite T3 (soon to be FluPIC'ed). I also like the battery configuration options for the L2P and L1T heads.

Now, if someone can tell me what r123 brand (protected of course) can be used in the cr123 tube. . .

My apologies if this post is long and unintelligible. . .it's way past my bed time.
 
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onthebeam

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body

Do you have some pix so we can visualize this? I want to get my CR2 body working with the LIT two stage head. . .
 

nemul

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body

Last edited by Dark Vapor : Today at 07:08 AM. Reason: didn't want to lose anything I wrote - which has happened often enough (also got interrupted by wife to kill roach); I guess I type too slow cause I lost first train of thought

lol
 

Dark Vapor

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body

I'll try and get a digital image up, OTB. The thing is I don't have a macro lens. . .I'll think of something.
 

DFiorentino

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body

You could try this as well.

:grin2:
-DF
 

tsl

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body

Given that so many folks here with the L1T/L2T are interested in a CR123 body accessory, would you think that 4sevens will be coming out with one to fit the L1T/L2T head without any mods?
 

Dark Vapor

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Re: How to Get your L1T/L2T to Work with the CR123 Body (w/ Linked Image)

As I posted previously, I stated I would try to provide an image on what I did. But I do not have the privilege to post attachments and so I can't. I did, however, sent an image to 4sevens. So if he happens along to this thread, maybe he could put the image up.

What it shows is the inside of the L1T/L2T head with the 18ga solid Cu wire soldered in place, the cr123 body with the anodizing removed from the threads, and the battery beneath the assembled body and tailcap.

Edit: Thanks to 4sevens, he's allowed me to link to his page here (hope the link works),
http://chows.smugmug.com/gallery/1094261/1/76315616

If you can access the page, you can see that the wire isn't flush all the way around inside (such as at the 8:30 o'clock position). This won't (hasn't) affected the operation in any way. Hope this helps.
 
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