Please put my name on order list, I will be among the first one to order Adjustable Badboy_750, when it is finally available... [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Pardon my ignorance, but is Badboy_750 capable of driving 5W LS close to max spec?
Badboy_750 life is dependent on my financial well being. I'm in deep red right now on order this large batch of Madmaxs, BB400 and BB500.
I'd like to say I'll be able to get to this shortly and produce some quantity that I can offer to folks, but, currently I don't have any time for that.
It's just logistics. I just need to get off my A** and get going.
In reality, it becomes somewhat worse when the modules arrive since I need to take orders, process, inventory control, and ship them out in a timely manner.
I can only seeing a small window sometime between now and then where I might consider building some more of the Badboy_750, and I'm not sure, but, I think I've already had many requests and I haven't honestly been tracking that info.
At this point it doesn't make sense to start a list since I can't promise or commit to any future date on when I might be able to deliver it.
The answer is yes, Badboy_750 or the existing Badboy (violet) would both be able to drive the 5W to neaer specifications.
Boy you do nice work! I can't wait.
Thats a mighty tasty sandwich [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
Wayne, 2nd e-mail sent to dat2zip address. Please respond.
I'd be willing to order a BB400 with either type of emmitter, and a BB_750 (board only, no emmitter needed), when they become available. (I've got a 5w cyan on the way) YES, I know that it needs signifigant heatsinking, and isn't 'drop-in' by a long shot. I'm prepared to mount it properly (Arctic-Silver epoxy OTW, and a nearly-full tube of AS2 in my desk).
If you want me to sign something saying I'll never hold you responsable for any burns/eye damage I might recieve from proper/improper use of such a beastly circuit, I'm willing. (I'd offer you my soul for a pair of 750's, but I just got it out of hock..... you know how it is.)
I'm even willing to pre-pay with paypal, as a show of appreciation for doing all this hard work for us.
Thanks, Wayne. [img]graemlins/icon14.gif[/img]
I too would be willing to pre-pay via PayPal if that would help. I suspect lot of us would pre-pay. That might help Wayne absorb some of his raw material costs.
I second that.
That's really nice of you to offer pre-pay. I'd rather not do this. I haven't hocked my house yet and I'm still employed.
I just ordered the batwing LEDs and will only be getting a partial shipment ASAP. Once I get these sent to my contract manufacturer will I know what the deliver date or status is if there is any. The end of the week will be the second week and counting. Maybe, I'll get try getting a status update end of the week.
I think pre-ordering could start when I get a more definitive date.
I'll keep you posted here.
I hereby resolve neither to go camp on your doorstep nor to slide money through the mail slot.
But it's not easy, you know, to keep up this level of self control.
You could put a tiny little magnet on a rod in a sleeve, and have the first LED light equipped with a nuclear reactor type push-pull control rod system (grin) -- or, with the Mag AA, a tiny magnet mounted inside the head (on an inserted ring, or in the plastic optic, so it could be rotated to the right position once then glued down) -- placed so with the first quarter turn of the head, the light would go from 'off' to 'low' and then another quarter turn would move the magnet far enough around the circumference to toggle the switch and put the light into 'high' -- these little rare earth magnets can be tiny enough, I think, to go inside the head and have a short radius of effect.
Bet that'd work in the Arcs too.
How about using a 'flip-flop' circuit to flip between 'high' and 'low' modes by turning the light on/off quickly instead of the magnet?
Maybe on the 5w Mag-C/D cell version. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
He's already go enough parts jammed in a 14mm wide space.
There we go- a drop-in replacement for the D-cell mag switch, that includes a programmable controller for dimming function... the switch assembly is suprisingly big.
My next next next project is exploring PWM.
I will be doing some microprocessor control stuff and experimenting with controlling Badboy or something like Badboy with a micro. I envision a two board stack up. One the micro, one the converter board. The micro will be on all the time, or something like that and the micro will control the brightness by PWM (turning on/off the controller) at some variable low frequency rate.
Something about the eye integration I want to explore and have heard some rumors about is the fact that the eye integrates the total light.
So, if the light source is turned on/off 50% of the time, the eye integrates this and the brain perceives 50% less brightness.
But, and here's the experiment, is what the brain perceives and integrates at different frequencies.
Keeping he LED on/off duty cycle at 50%, what is the brain integrating at 200Hz, 2KHz, 20KHz, etc...
I know that at high rates up to 1MHz the eye tends to integrate real well. The rumor is that at lower frequencies the eye doesn't integrate as well. So, at lower frequencies the eye may perceive bright light.
The light meter should integrate properly at any fequency, but, it's possible to trick the brain. Or, is it? That's the question?
If some frequency can be found where the perceived brightness is fooled, then, the next question is, does this perceived increase in brightness also increase ones visibility range as well? Does the beam penetrate further with less energy?
When the flashlight is the only light you only have to fool the eye/brain, but when using the light where there are any other light sources like streetlamps which also flicker at a high frequency (I think) you'd have to be careful not to create interferance patterns between the frequencies - you might be able to perceive the 'beating' when the frequencies align.
With a white LED, remember, you have a phosphor. The phosphor will also continue to glow for a brief time. Well, normally brief, but at 200+ khz, it might matter. Maybe make a color shift? Dunno.
Dat2Zip, if you make a module for 'experimental' use (IE, NOT a drop-in, and requiring a waiver stating that dat2zip isn't responsable for anything that we might do) I'd be interested. 2+amp capacity, output up to 20v, adjustable amperage regulation. Useful for us maniacs who want to stick 1-6 5w LS's in a large flashlight... and watercool it. 4 things it'd need to have for the outside world: power-in, power-out, trim-pot, and heatsink mount (epoxy-on, perhaps?).
Maybe the phosphor glow will act like a 'light capacitor' and smooth out the flicker, although thinking further on my earlier post, if the frequencies are high enough we probably wouldn't even notice the interference patterns.
Go for it! If it works and you increase run time 50% then we're all winners! [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
Pulsing LEDs is very commonly done with your average LED clock or VCR display.
As we know from movies, flourescent lighting and computer monitors, flickering at 60Hz is tolerable, and above 100Hz is usually not noticeable.
However, while the eye may integrate over time, you have to account for a moving beam. If I had a laser that pulsed at 1KHz, it might look like a solid beam when standing still, but start whizzing it around on a dark wall, and it won't have to move too fast before you can see the little dashed-line streaks it leaves.
An LED flashlight, with the broader beam, can be more forgiving. I think the real test is whether the light still looks steady, even when you're whirling the beam around. And do you get stroboscopic effects when you point the beam at a rapidly rotating object?
The easiest thing to do would be to call Lumiled or Nichia and talk with a tecnhical represetative and determine if the phosphor latency would yield any benefit from PWM.
Since phosphor coating is not totally new, I'm sure that this experiment or data exists already and that there is proof somewhere that this does or does not work.
Please check your e-mail (parcel size & weight)
Just received word that the mfg has received the all the raw boards. They are missing a few components, but, I am asking them to no load them to avoid the additional 2 week delay. It sounded like they might be able to ship my first article next week sometime, at which I'll add the LED and missing compnent and then test.
If first article tests good, I'll start taking in orders.
BTW: I received some of my LEDs on reels and have the bin code information on them. Additionally, I have pulled two of each strip, section or reel and have done some preliminary testing.
We apparently have basically two types or groupings.
The first overall group have CCT values 3, 4. This is the higher color index and the light output of these are bluish to slight violetish.
The other general batch are binned 1,2 and are at the lower end of the CCT color scale. These are supposed to have the warmer tone to them. Of these the green effect is more dominant or visable.
I've only ordered just enough to cover the build and do not have any extra for sale individually.
I've got three categories of brightness values that of the ones that are marked. They are N,P,Q.
Where N ratings supposedly are 18.1lm-23.5, P=23-30lm, and Q should be 30-39.6lm.
So, the Q's should be the brighter bunch, and are lumped in the 1,2 at the lower CCT end. Q1X, and Q2X are the two binned ones I have.
Of bad news is I have two reels binned exactly the same. of the two samples of each that I measured, on set of two had a slight greenish cast to them. The other set of two from the other reel had a nice whitish cast to it and seemed better color balanced.
Anyway, the whole lot is going into the wash tub rinse cycle and it will be a crap shoot what you get.
Of all the greenish casts one, only my EDC minimag has a really bad puke green effect. I use that one as my baseline comparison and none of these reels are as bad as the one in my EDC and my EDC is not the worst puke green I've seen. I have others that will make you ill looking at it.
If module sales cross over my magic break even number, I'll donate some of the proceeds to the Craig fund when I get there.
Ready, aim, PAYPAL!
Thanks for the update Wayne. These modules will be real winners:-)
Just tell me when to push the 'Order' button!
My BByellow has such a nice beam that I'm afraid to order anything else for fear of disappointment. But I will. So tell me please, how much brighter is a BB 500ma version then a BB yellow? It will help me make up my mind on which one(s) to order. If 500ma not really noticeably brighter then BB yellow then I would stick with yellow and the longer runtime. However if you can definitely tell a difference between the two then I will have to really think about which to order.
Have been wondering about the status of these, sounds great, bring 'em on out for us. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]
In other words, can't hardly wait...
Have the BB400's become available yet?
I'll email you.
Last I heard I should be getting first article no later than this Wed. If first articles test good, I could start taking pre-ordering.
I don't believe that CPF will buy more than I've ordered. I've probably ordered more than I will ever need and won't sell. That's OK, as long as I can do a stretch and hit my break even point.
Just FYI, this means there are more than 100 of the Madmax Adjustable, 100+ of the Badboy 400mA and 100+ of the Badboy 500mA.
So, I believe everyone should get covered in this order and if for some grand scheme of things, I've got more blank boards available for a second run if there is any reason for this.
1/2 the LED order is in transient to the MFG site. Barring any shipping issues, they should be getting the package mid week. Once they get the LEDs and I approve first article they should be able to start cranking out modules with the LEDs loaded.
All the LEDs I got in two batches are actually very nice. Very little if any green effect. I think you will be pleased with the colors.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Could someone besides dat2zip explain briefly what the differences are. I knew I wanted a Badboy. Is 500mA current throught the LED? Is the Adjustable Madmax referencing a pot? Is it OK to ask what the prices are in this forum?Originally posted by dat2zip:
Just FYI, this means there are more than 100 of the Madmax Adjustable, 100+ of the Badboy 400mA and 100+ of the Badboy 500mA.
I've asked for someone else's to help 'cause I e-mailed him last week. I'm sure he's made all this clear to you guys before and I'll bet he's busy as well. I just don't quite get it.