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Thread: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

  1. #331
    Flashaholic* rookiedaddy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread


    can you get any of the above? Those spray can (pictured in section A, top left) are not recommended and if you absolutely have to use one, take out the o-ring before you spray it on the thread, the aerosol tend to expand the o-rings. I've also photo some cleaner there.

    Those pictured in section D would be last resort.

    The 2 container pictured in section B are imported from Holland (well, it says it's made in Holland ), the blue labeled from a diving shop, while the black labeled from RC hobby shop, they both claim to contain Teflon (PTFE). The syringe in the middle is the Krytox GPL226 grease from Tekno_Cowboy. Both the blue labeled "Scuba Grease" and Krytox are highly recommended.

    The 2 tubes pictured in C are Nyogel 760g and 779C and you can get them from LightHound, I think some members say that SureFire uses Nyogel in their flashlight.

    Btw, don't overlube, it could be worse than no-lube at all as those excess (over time) might get in the way of electrical contact and heat transfer. Whatever grease/oil you choose, a little lube goes a long way I use a small paintbrush to spread the lube evenly across the thread.

  2. #332

    Default Re: Home Depot/ Lowe's Grease?

    Quote Originally Posted by was.lost.but.now.found View Post
    +1.

    Luminescent sold me with his comments, so I stopped to get some also. I worry about the smell because that means that it has "something" in it which is literally fading into thin air. Is that "something" important to the lubrication of the threads? In other words, will it's lubricating ability diminish the more the smell permeates? That is my question.
    Sorry I forgot to mention the smell.

    I forgot because my Mobil 1 grease is a few years old now, and the smell is most noticeable when you first open a fresh can.

    So, the good news is that, if you can hold out, it will get a little better (or at least less pungent) over time.

    Never going to be Chenel#5 though, so best to think about it more like those old Listerine commercials, i.e. smells bad, but works good.

    In practical terms, even when the Mobil 1 grease is fresh and at it's stinky worst, you don't really notice the smell that much when it is applied in the small quantities used in lubing a flashlight (and not at all after the light is assembled). You may notice a very faint whiff of that skunky smell the first couple times you change the batteries, but it does eventually fade.

    Don't be too concerned about the smell (or eventual lack of it) indicating that the grease is somehow breaking down or evaporating, it just seems to be caused by some trace aromatic molecules in the grease left over from the synthetic refining process that are really pungent.

    I have had the same Mobil 1 grease in my Jetbeam C-LE twisty light for more than a year now without re-lubing, and the smell faded to the barely noticeably level long ago, but the twisty action still turns absolutely buttery smooth.

    Again, if all you are concerned with is the tailcap threads on your Maglight, or other lightly loaded parts or assemblies that are not particularly critical, then lot of things will work. In these applications, if you want an absolutely odorless, colorless option, then NyoGel 760G is a good choice (If you hunt around a little you can often find a tube of NyoGel 760G on special for less than 10 bucks shipping included)

    Where the Mobil 1 red automotive grease really shines though, is for bare aluminum threaded assemblies that see high loads or heavy use.

    On my first Jetbeam C-LE twisty light, I actualy had a lube related thread failure, dispite using an expensive Krytox based lubricant. For the replacement C-LE, I switched to Mobil-1 grease, and this not only reduced thread wear to almost negligible levels, but has also made the action so smooth that I can easily operate the light and switch modes one handed. Dispite having Krytox available, I only will use it on Stainless Steel and Titanium, and prefer to use Mobil-1 grease exclusively on aluminum.

    I have also used Mobil-1 grease to lube the worm drive gears on my milling machine, to repack wheel bearings, to grease my bicycle, and for a dozen other odd jobs, and found it to be a high quality general-purpose grease.

    I’d be the first one to admit though that after smelling Mobil-1 grease, you’re probably not going to want to use it for mustache wax.

    - Luminescent
    Last edited by Luminescent; 01-04-2010 at 12:33 PM.

  3. #333

    Default Re: Home Depot/ Lowe's Grease?

    Some people hate the smell of Triflow oil... Others love it. I've found few oils/greases that are truely objectionable (at least new ones... 100k+ on a rear end oil tends to change things).

    Odors aside, I just lubed up my new Quark Mini AA Neutral with some Triflow Synthetic Grease (the clear stuff, not their red grease). Its been working great at the shop on various bearings and is supposed to be safe on my plastic and rubber compounds, so I figured I'd give it a try.

    First impressions are

  4. #334
    Flashaholic pulstar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    I've just relubed threads on my Nitecore Extreme and LX2 with Abbey Gunlube SM50. http://www.abbeysupply.com/product10.html. Twisting the head on NEX or tailcap on LX2 is much easier and smoother than when lubed with sillicon grease. I'm happy with the results but i'm not sure if this new oil will have any affect on orings. This lube was bought in a Hunting/airsoft store and was recommeded for parts with lots of friction...Any thoughts?

  5. #335

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    I would think it may be at least slightly (if not more) damaging to o-rings. While a nitrile ring should take the abuse in stride, butyl may be more prone to degradation. I have no idea the effect on silicone-type o rings...

  6. #336
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Mobil 1 -how good is it with O Rings in general?(most automotive gaskets are metal jacketed IIRC)

  7. #337

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GarageBoy View Post
    Mobil 1 -how good is it with O Rings in general?(most automotive gaskets are metal jacketed IIRC)
    In well over a year of use, on several different lights, I have had ZERO problems with o-rings swelling, softening, or gumming up with Mobil-1 Grease.

    You are correct that in a car, lots of the hard gaskets are now metal based, but this is more relavant to motor oil than to greases which are often used in sealed bearings that have o-ring or rubber bushing based end seals, (so I think that Mobil-1 was designed to be friendly to these materials).

    Mobil-1 also rates quite highly on preventing o-ring sticktion (the tendency of o-rings to become frozen and stick in place if not turned for a time).

    In my testing, only Krytox rated as highly in preventing sticktion as did Mobil-1. With both Krytox and Mobil-1, you can leave a light idle for weeks or even months, and when you pick it up, it turns freely.

    Worst for sticktion effects in my testing were with silicone greases. I had a dive-light freeze so tight after being lubed with silicone grease and left idle for one season, that the plastic bezel litterally shattered before I could break it loose and get it turning again.

    - Luminescent

  8. #338

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by pulstar View Post
    I've just relubed threads on my Nitecore Extreme and LX2 with Abbey Gunlube SM50. http://www.abbeysupply.com/product10.html. Twisting the head on NEX or tailcap on LX2 is much easier and smoother than when lubed with sillicon grease. I'm happy with the results but i'm not sure if this new oil will have any affect on orings. This lube was bought in a Hunting/airsoft store and was recommeded for parts with lots of friction...Any thoughts?
    Abbey specifically mentions airgun applications, so you should be ok, since airguns generally have numerous rubber seals, seats, and/or orings.

    They also say that this oil is 'non dieseling' and won't evaporate, so it's obviously not a highly volatile hydrocarbon based oil, which is generally also good news so far as your orings go.

    I haven't found that most light gun oils have enough viscosity to keep things smooth on a twisty light for more than a few days, and often the orings show 'sticktion' when the light is not used for a week or two (the orings stick and bind, even though they are not damaged).

    In any case, I doubt that this stuff will eat up your orings, and perhaps you have found a winner, so let us know how things work out.

  9. #339
    Flashaholic pulstar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Thanks for reassuring reply I'll let you guys know, how this oil performs...

  10. #340
    Flashaholic* AFAustin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    (If this has already been answered somewhere in this thread, I apologize, but I didn't find it with a quick search.) When using 2 different lubes for the o-ring and the threads, e.g., the 2 different types of Nyogel, what is the best method for getting the proper lube on the o-ring without also getting it on the threads?

    Thanks.
    You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you this look that says, "My God, you're right! I never would've thought of that!" (Dave Barry)

  11. #341

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AFAustin View Post
    (If this has already been answered somewhere in this thread, I apologize, but I didn't find it with a quick search.) When using 2 different lubes for the o-ring and the threads, e.g., the 2 different types of Nyogel, what is the best method for getting the proper lube on the o-ring without also getting it on the threads?

    Thanks.
    Hello AFAustin

    What I would do:
    Treat your threads first and condition them by applying pressure forward as you screw in and same thing as you unscrew, do it a few times this way both sides of the thread will be conditioned.

    Wipe off any lubricant that deposited on the O-Ring if any.
    Now use some teflon tape and wrap around the threads, just a few turns.
    All you have to do now is apply your O-Ring lubricant (excess is never good, attracts grime, lint etc.)
    remove the teflon tape and you are done.
    Last edited by Nano-Oil.com; 01-14-2010 at 01:06 PM. Reason: typo

  12. #342
    Flashaholic* AFAustin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Nano-Oil.com View Post
    Hello AFAustin

    What I would do:
    Treat your threads first and condition them by applying pressure forward as you screw in and same thing as you unscrew, do it a few times this way both sides of the thread will be conditioned.

    Wipe off any lubricant that deposited on the O-Ring if any.
    Now use some teflon tape and wrap around the threads, just a few turns.
    All you have to do now is apply your O-Ring lubricant (excess is never good, attracts grime, lint etc.)
    remove the teflon tape and you are done.
    Christian,

    Thanks for your reply. What exactly does "condition" both sides of the threads mean---is it just getting the lube spread around on the threads?

    When you say "apply pressure forward" and do the same as you unscrew---does that mean, while unscrewing, pull in the direction you are unscrewing?

    Finally, won't teflon tape leave a residue on the threads after being removed?

    See, that's what happens when you're a helpful soul who answers a question---you get more questions!

    BTW, I use Nano-Oil on my head twisty lights and it works great. An added bonus is that it stays clean and doesn't turn black like many other lubes.

    Thanks again,

    Andrew
    Last edited by AFAustin; 01-14-2010 at 10:16 PM.
    You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you this look that says, "My God, you're right! I never would've thought of that!" (Dave Barry)

  13. #343

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AFAustin View Post
    Christian,

    Thanks for your reply. What exactly does "condition" both sides of the threads mean---is it just getting the lube spread around on the threads?

    When you say "apply pressure forward" and do the same as you unscrew---does that mean, while unscrewing, pull in the direction you are unscrewing?

    Finally, won't teflon tape leave a residue on the threads after being removed?

    See, that's what happens when you're a helpful soul who answers a question---you get more questions!

    BTW, I use Nano-Oil on my head twisty lights and it works great. An added bonus is that it stays clean and doesn't turn black like many other lubes.

    Thanks again,

    Andrew
    Hello Andrew.
    By conditioning, I mean making/forcing the metal to metal which polishes/deburrs the micro uneven surface from machining, only do that with oil/grease in place, specially on Aluminium
    For screwing the endcaps or lenses (what ever you are treating) you are right, you push as you screw in and pull out as you unscrew, the idea is to treat both sides of the threads.

    as for the Teflon tape, just leave a little tail and it will come right off, specially when applied on lubricated threads.

    Thanks for the comment about Nano-Oil.

    Hope to see some of you at the Shot Show Las Vegas.
    Last edited by Nano-Oil.com; 01-14-2010 at 11:57 PM. Reason: clarification

  14. #344
    Flashaholic* AFAustin's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Christian,

    Thanks for the elaboration---very helpful. Have a good time at SHOT!

    Cheers,

    Andrew
    You can say any foolish thing to a dog, and the dog will give you this look that says, "My God, you're right! I never would've thought of that!" (Dave Barry)

  15. #345

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Here's one for you guys... On lights such as my Princeton Tec Solo headlamp with some form fo resin threading, what grease would you go with?

    Been using Syl-Glide for years, but it definately causes o-ring stiction. Triflow synthetic is supposed to be inert, as is Krytox. I suspect the Triflow will assist in keeping water out better than the Krytox but would either be more appropriate for the material interface lubrication?

  16. #346

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Buck91 View Post
    Here's one for you guys... On lights such as my Princeton Tec Solo headlamp with some form fo resin threading, what grease would you go with?

    Been using Syl-Glide for years, but it definately causes o-ring stiction. Triflow synthetic is supposed to be inert, as is Krytox. I suspect the Triflow will assist in keeping water out better than the Krytox but would either be more appropriate for the material interface lubrication?
    On threaded plastic parts, nothing that I have found beats Krytox.

    I have two identical dive lights, and since one was a spare that was completely unused, I decided to lube it up with Krytox so I could compare it with the other (which was already lubed up with silicone grease).

    The light lubed with Krytox was absolutely buttery smooth, verses the other light, which had much more resistance and lots of trouble with Ďsticktioní.

    Also, despite all the hype you hear about silicone greases being 'inert' I have found that in some of my dive lights, the long term use of silicone grease over several seasons has lead to the hard acrylic plastic parts becoming much weaker and more brittle.

    I am not sure if this is due to the silicone oil soaking into the plastic surface and displacing the normal plasticizers or if it relates to fatigue effects due to the repeated use of high torque to break loose the o-ring due to the severe sticktion that frequently occurs with silicone grease.

    Krytox does seem to be truly inert (I have see absolutely no evidence of it causeing brittleness or other issues with plastics). There is virtually ZERO sticktion and threads and o-rings turn buttery smooth with noticeably lower friction and wear.

    Krytox is expensive, and once you start using it, itís difficult to clean off and go back to another lubricant (because Krytox is resistant to virtually all common solvents), but trust me, it works so incredibly well on plastic lights that you arenít likely to be tempted to switch to something else.

    Do make sure to fully clean away any other grease, because Krytox doesnít mix well at all with other greases (the mixture will work worse than either grease by itself!).

    Silicone can also be a little bit of a bitch to fully clean away. I really noticed this after the above comparison, when I decide that the Krytox was working so well that I would remove the silicone lube from the original dive light and relube that light with Krytox as well.

    When I replaced the silicone lube with Krytox, the light did immediately improve, but it was still not quite as smooth as the light that I had lubed with Krytox right from the start. Ultimately, I had to replace the o-ring that had been previously lubed with silicone grease with an unused fresh o-ring before both lights were finally equally smooth (the residual silicone that had soaked into the o-ring was interfering with the Krytox and keeping it from working as well as it could with a fresh clean o-ring)

    That was the only time that I actually had to go so far as to change the o-ring when switching to Krytox (usually it's sufficient to just clean up the existing o-ring with alcohol) so I'm guessing that it's a function of the specific o-ring material, and how long that the silicone grease has been in place.

    If you do decide to use Krytox, make sure that you get REAL Krytox PFPE/PFTE grease, and not just a 'Krytox Teflon' type grease (which may be just a hydrocarbon or silicone lube with some Teflon added).

    Real Krytox grease uses a completely synthetic PFPE base oil.

    I am using the Loctite Krytox RFE P/N 29710, but the Loctite stuff is about $40 for a two ounce tube, which may be more than some are looking to spend.

    Tekno_Cowboy and others here on CPF also sell real Dupont PFPE/PFTE Krytox in smaller quantities at proportionally smaller prices.

    Krytox is certinly one of the more expensive lubricants, but a very small quantity of Krytox goes a long way, so when you break it down on a cost per application basis, it's not so bad.

    -Luminescent

  17. #347
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Luminescent View Post
    ... If you do decide to use Krytox, make sure that you get REAL Krytox PFPE/PFTE grease, and not just a 'Krytox Teflon' type grease (which may be just a hydrocarbon or silicone lube with some Teflon added).

    Real Krytox grease uses a completely synthetic PFPE base oil.
    Since I posted about Christo-Lube MCG-111 a few months back, I've read some interesting information about MCG-111 vs Krytox. This comes from other boards...

    1. "Difference between the Bracote/Cristolube & the Krytox from an applications standpoint is the Krytox will with time breakdown seperate the polymers from oils where the braycote/Cristolube does not."

    2. "Bill's comment about Krytox explains something I've personally observed... after tubes of Krytox sit around for a long while it comes out of the tube in a state I can best describe as 'gritty'... rub it around for a minute and the 'grit' disappears..."

    Most of the recommendations I've seen recommend any of the following: Bracote, Christo-lube or Krytox. Most discussions I've read indicate that all are basically interchangeable. According to DuPont, Christo-lube MCG-111 is equivalent to Krytox GPL-204.

    Personal experience with Christo-lube MCG-111, Krytox GPL-204 and Mobil-1 Synthetic Grease is... they all work great on my lights. The Mobil-1 is smoother, with a strong smell, while both Krytox and Christo-lube perform equally as well as the other. I prefer Mobil-1 for twisties, but like any/all of them in general. I haven't tried mixing these (such as MCG-111 on the o-rings and Mobil-1 on the threads), but I really haven't had a need to yet.
    "There is hardly anything in the world that some man canít make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this manís lawful prey." -- John Ruskin

  18. #348

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by tsmith35 View Post
    Since I posted about Christo-Lube MCG-111 a few months back, I've read some interesting information about MCG-111 vs Krytox. This comes from other boards...

    1. "Difference between the Bracote/Cristolube & the Krytox from an applications standpoint is the Krytox will with time breakdown seperate the polymers from oils where the braycote/Cristolube does not."

    2. "Bill's comment about Krytox explains something I've personally observed... after tubes of Krytox sit around for a long while it comes out of the tube in a state I can best describe as 'gritty'... rub it around for a minute and the 'grit' disappears..."

    Most of the recommendations I've seen recommend any of the following: Bracote, Christo-lube or Krytox. Most discussions I've read indicate that all are basically interchangeable. According to DuPont, Christo-lube MCG-111 is equivalent to Krytox GPL-204.

    Personal experience with Christo-lube MCG-111, Krytox GPL-204 and Mobil-1 Synthetic Grease is... they all work great on my lights. The Mobil-1 is smoother, with a strong smell, while both Krytox and Christo-lube perform equally as well as the other. I prefer Mobil-1 for twisties, but like any/all of them in general.
    If you check out the actual MSDS information for Dupont Krytox, Christo-Lube, and Loctite's Krytox RFE PFPE lubricant (PN 29710), you will see that they all list the same two basic component elements -

    A base oil compounded from Perfluorinated polyether (PFPE)
    A thickner compounded from Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)

    This is not to say that there is not some room for differences.

    Remember "Krytox" is a Dupont trademark term that takes in a whole family of Dupont PFPE lubricants and Greases, so the statements you quoted about Krytox having a tendency to separate, vs Christo-Lube not having this tendency, are not relevant unless we take into account the actual grade of Krytox grease used in the comparison.

    If you compound a PFPE/PTFE type grease with a higher viscosity PFPE base oil, you will get a grease that will separate more slowly, but using a thicker more viscous base oil also makes the grease 'stiffer' and not as smooth as a lubricant, so there is a tradeoff.

    This is not an issue in applications where the grease is being used as an o-ring lube or as an anti-seize lubricant (as it is in scuba gear), but may be an issue for other applications such as 'twisty' flashlights, where silky smooth one-handed operation is desired.

    I think this is why Techno_Cowboy offered multiple grades of Krytox, and why some others even offered intermediate 50/50 'blends' of high viscosity and lower viscosity that were custom tailored for use in critical applications.

    In practical terms though, I agree that for most applications, the Medium Grade Dupont Krytox, Christo-Lube, and Loctite PN 29710 Krytox products are interchangeable.

    I am not too concerned about this PFTE/PFPE separation issue because the Loctite PN 29710 product that I am using now comes in a soft plastic squeeze tube that can easily be kneaded to thoroughly remix the PTFE particles with the PFPE base oil if required.

    I now use Krytox exclusively in my flashlights that have threaded assemblies constructed of stainless steel, titanium, and plastic.

    In my testing on bare aluminum however, I found that Krytox was NOT a good choice.

    I gave Loctite hell about this, and they actually went back and worked with Dupont to determine if there should be some kind of generic warning about the suitability of Krytox as a lubricant in these applications.

    If the aluminum threaded parts have a good thick HAIII anodized coating, then Krytox will work fine, but on bare aluminum it's bad news.

    It would appear that Dupont decided that my concerns were valid, because now if you check the application notes, even generic PFPE/PTFE lubricants like Christo-Lube include a warning -
    “Although CHRISTO-LUBE MCG-111 is very inert, newly exposed rubbing surfaces of aluminum and magnesium may react with the grease under certain extreme conditions.”
    Trust me, this applies to other Krytox lubricants as well, and the 'extreme conditions' they are talking about are not all that 'extreme' and include simple cases like where you have frequently turning moderately loaded threaded parts (like the head of a twisty flashlight).

    Since the above wording is almost a perfect word for word a match for the concerns I raised with Loctite (and that were ulitmatly passed on to Dupont) the fact that this same exact warning has now filtered back down the chain from Christo-Lube, may be another confirmation (along with the MSDS) that Christo-Lube is just generic Krytox (I suspect that the Christo-Lube folks are just passing along generic application note warning information supplied to them by Dupont, who manufactures their basic materials).

    So, long story short -

    Christo-Lube = Rebranded Dupont Krytox
    Loctite RFE = Rebranded Dupont Krytox

    There may be slight variations in grade and viscosity, but for most applications they should be interchangable.

    Quote Originally Posted by tsmith35 View Post
    I haven't tried mixing these (such as MCG-111 on the o-rings and Mobil-1 on the threads), but I really haven't had a need to yet.
    I agree, I wouldn't try this. First of all, both Krytox and Mobil-1 work great BOTH as an o-ring lube AND as a thread lubricant, so there is really no need to do this, and Second; Krytox, and Mobil-1 synthetic grease, good as they are, DON'T MIX WELL.

    When you try to use two separate greases on O-Rings and Threaded parts, there is inevitably some mixing. This is fine for greases that are basically compatible, like Nyogel 760 and Nyogel 779, but it is not good with incompatible greases like Mobil-1 and Krytox.
    Last edited by Luminescent; 01-18-2010 at 11:44 AM.

  19. #349
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Heh... I just realized there are 12 pages of discussion about what to use when lubing a flashlight. And it's mostly useful. Who knew?
    "There is hardly anything in the world that some man canít make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this manís lawful prey." -- John Ruskin

  20. #350
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    I've spent hours reading this thread. And others ...and I am no closer to a product.

    Thank goodness you guys don't advise on dinner ---- I'd be 300lbs!!!

    ''Go placidly .....''

  21. #351

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Sarratt View Post
    I've spent hours reading this thread. And others ...and I am no closer to a product.

    Thank goodness you guys don't advise on dinner ---- I'd be 300lbs!!!

    For what application? So far I've been happy withg Syl-Glide, much happier with Tri Flow synthetic grease (though I've only used it a short time) and happy with Finish Line Extreme Fluoro (Krytox), but again only used it for a short time so far.

  22. #352

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    I can understand you consternation. There are so many conflicting comments here.

    In this era of cost cutting in manufacturing, many lights go out the door with roughly finished, totally un-lubricated threads.

    From the factory, these lights feel so god awful gritty, you could lube them with just about anything, including peanut butter, and get at least some improvement, but that doesnít mean we need to have a protracted discussion of the virtues of Jiff vs. Skippy, and why you should never use chunky peanut butter.

    So, some of the confusion results from the fact that folks are giving advice based on very limited experience that should be taken with a grain of salt.

    Mamy Sorghumís patented razorback hog grease, might be just the thing for your lights, but if itís only available in hogly-wogly stores in 3 states, and doesnít really work very well across the board in other lights, then we probably shouldnít be wasting our time talking about it.

    The perfect grease, would be inexpensive, universally available, and would work for every type of light, no matter how tough the lubrication requirements.

    Krytox works well on Stainless Steel, Titanium, and Hard Plastic lights, but is NOT inexpensive, and doesnít work particularly well on bare aluminum.

    Mobil-1 works absolutely great on bare aluminum, and also works nicely on most other metals and alloys, but is a little smelly, and you have to buy it in a 1 pound tin or grease gun cartridge, which will set you back about 12 to 15 dollars. Thatís actually quite reasonable on a cost per ounce bases, but thatís not much consolation if you donít really have a use for that much grease.

    If your applications are not all that critical, and you donít want to shell out for Mobil-1 and/or Krytox, you can just look for a low cost generic lithium grease from your local home center.

    At your local home center store, many of the tubs, tubes, and cartridges of grease may actually allow you to pop the cap and look at the material before purchase. Try to find a nice simple light golden lithium grease, as opposed to white lithium grease (which has zinc oxide filler), or black or blue lithium grease (which may have molybdenum or other nasties).

    A half-pound or more of this generic lithium grease should only set you back a couple bucks, and will be just fine for nearly all flashlight lubrication requirements.

    I still recommend the Red Mobil-1 Synthetic grease if you have an aluminum twisty light with bare metal threads. As I mentioned above, Mobil-1 is a little more expensive than generic lithium grease, and a bit more smelly, but the cost is soon forgotten, and you donít notice the slightly acrid smell in actual use. Aluminum tends to gall and Mobil-1 is the only grease that I have found that will give absolutely buttery smooth operation in bare aluminum on bare aluminum threaded parts.

    Similarly, if you are well heeled enough to own a titanium light, then you are probably well heeled enough to invest in some Krytox to lube it. So far as I have been able to find out, you don't have a lot of choices, because titanium is absolutely the toughest metal in the world to lubricate. Even Krytox isnít perfectly smooth. There is still a very slight gritty feeling, and a little metal fretting that makes the grease gradually turn black. I wish there was a better option, so if anyone knows something that works better than Krytox for titanium I would like to hear about it.

  23. #353
    Flashaholic pulstar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Luminescent View Post
    Abbey specifically mentions airgun applications, so you should be ok, since airguns generally have numerous rubber seals, seats, and/or orings.

    They also say that this oil is 'non dieseling' and won't evaporate, so it's obviously not a highly volatile hydrocarbon based oil, which is generally also good news so far as your orings go.

    I haven't found that most light gun oils have enough viscosity to keep things smooth on a twisty light for more than a few days, and often the orings show 'sticktion' when the light is not used for a week or two (the orings stick and bind, even though they are not damaged).

    In any case, I doubt that this stuff will eat up your orings, and perhaps you have found a winner, so let us know how things work out.
    Hi again,

    everything works smoothly and nicely! This oil really turned out to be GREAT! I haven't noticed any sticktion till now. There is definitely a lot less friction on both of my twisty lights, LX2 and NEX so I highly recommed this oil, it may not be as good as the favourites here (nyogel, nano-oil) but it blows away my silicon grease i used before!
    Last edited by pulstar; 03-19-2010 at 10:16 AM.

  24. #354

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Just an update... It appears Triflow synthetic grease is "H1" rated by the NSF as safe for use as a lubricant in applications with incidental food contact.

  25. #355

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Hey guys, I hope I dont get totally flamed here for asking this, just please keep in mind im a noob! Ive been searching around and havent seen much discussion on synthetic ATF used for lubricant. What kinds of problems would arise from its use? I assume maybe slight swelling of o-rings, most likely depending on the material the o-rings are made of? Just curious, as I have a whole bunch in the garage with no real use for it (old roomate left a ton of it). Thanks in advance.

  26. #356
    Flashaholic* was.lost.but.now.found's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Flucero28 View Post
    Hey guys, I hope I dont get totally flamed here for asking this, just please keep in mind im a noob! Ive been searching around and havent seen much discussion on synthetic ATF used for lubricant. What kinds of problems would arise from its use? I assume maybe slight swelling of o-rings, most likely depending on the material the o-rings are made of? Just curious, as I have a whole bunch in the garage with no real use for it (old roomate left a ton of it). Thanks in advance.
    If I'm not mistaken ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is very much like an oil and no so much like a grease. A substance like a grease is going to stay in place much better and not 'run'.

  27. #357

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Might want to be careful of the o-ring material, but I would think it would work OK for threads. Works good on a bike chain in a pinch (just be sure to wipe off as much excess of possible)...

  28. #358
    Flashaholic
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    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Has anyone heard of Loctite ViperLube? It's listed as:
    High Performance Synthetic Grease PN 36781
    NLGI Grade 2
    GC-LB (severe duty) and NSF H1

    I got a sample tube of this from my sales rep and immediately headed for my flashlights. Is that sick or what? But I cleaned the lube from my EZ CR2 and put the ViperLube on and... smooth as silk. It feels just like the Mobil One synthetic grease (NLGI 2), but there's almost no smell and this stuff is a light tan color. They also have a clear version (PN 39341) but I haven't tried it yet.

    The Loctite page for ViperLube is here.

    The product description says, "LOCTITEģ ViperLube™ High Performance Synthetic Grease is an advanced multi-purpose NLGI Grade 2 grease that is composed of synthetic PAO (polyalphaolefin) base stocks and calcium sulphonate additive. The grease is designed for use as a long-life lubricant to provide superior protection in industrial applications."

    The clear version uses a fumed silica thickener and isn't quite as robust as the standard version. Anyone else run across this lube?
    Last edited by tsmith35; 02-09-2010 at 11:14 AM.
    "There is hardly anything in the world that some man canít make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this manís lawful prey." -- John Ruskin

  29. #359

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    I just started using Sil-Glyde brake lubricant for my flashlights. cost $1.19

  30. #360

    Default Re: Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by niran View Post
    I just started using Sil-Glyde brake lubricant for my flashlights. cost $1.19

    I've had great results with that. Although, on my L1D Q4 it did seem to always get on the head contacts and cause flickering.

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