This is Part 1 of the Milky L1 Information Thread. Part 2 is over here.
I've loved the old-style SureFire L1 for a long while now... love the overall design, the ergonomics, the compactness, the elegance of this package... not so crazy about the floodsy, not-so-bright purple-tinted beam though.Originally Posted by MARNAV1
Solution: the Milky L1!
The Milky L1 started as my own attempt to improve on the original L1... then after literally YEARS of studying, and poking around, and tinkering... and tinkering... finally a few of the quirks to this platform started to sink into my overly dense cranium, and I started to get the hang of turning the little guy into IMHO a truly compelling light.
At first this was almost like a secret build I did... had only made a handful, and those went to various folks... Kevin at Battery Station... Steve at The Product Wizard... MSaxatilus... a few others (plus me of course)... in many ways this has long been my premier build in that there's a certain level of performance I've tried hard to maintain, to the extent that sometimes I wouldn't even build any because the emitters on hand weren't good enough! (All get hand-picked as outperformers in order to make it into an ML1.)
But what IS a Milky L1? Don't think I've ever actually posted on that! Oops.
This thread will hopefully shed some light on what this mod is all about, along with some photos, beamshots, runtime charts, and commentary offered by others too numerous to mention... but thank you to everyone for the info!
It's an upgraded (but brand new in box) old-style L1 with vastly improved performance...
Collected Milky L1 Info, With Updates (7/4/2007)
In this post I gather some tidbits from previous posts and update them to correct mistakes, add missing emitter choices, etc. Thought it might help to have it all in one place.
The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Seoul and Cree)
(Italics mean I don't have that emitter on hand at the time of this writing... the info remains here for reference.)
Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white) - roughly 84 lumens
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white) - roughly 50-60 lumens
LuxIII TWOH - roughly 45-60 lumens
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly) - roughly 50-60 lumens
Seoul P4-USVOI - roughly 91-100 lumens
Seoul P4-USWOH - roughly 91-100 lumens
LuxIII UXOJ - roughly 50-60 lumens
Cree P3-WC (close to the Lumileds XO tint) - roughly 77 lumens
LuxIII UWAJ (pure white) - roughly 50-60 lumens
Seoul P4-U-6500K - roughly 91-100 lumens
LuxIII UYOJ - roughly 50-60 lumens
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white) - roughly 45-60 lumens
Milky L1 Selection Guide (second draft)
I can customize an L1 to your needs in a number of ways, but it really boils down to this...
1. Want longest possible throw from the L1 platform? Start with the new-style L1 with an IMS20 smooth reflector and flat ultra-clear lens installed.
1a. Want long throw with a ram-of-light effect? Start with the new-style L1 with the TIR optic left in place.
2. Want good throw in a smaller, more elegant version of the L1? Start with the old-style L1.
3. Tell me what sort of beam would be most useful to you: (a) short range mostly flood beam; (b) well-balanced all-purpose beam, useful for both close-range and moderately long distance use; (c) all-purpose beam with a little more intensity in the hotspot for a little extra throw. If you chose 'a', you want the ML1 Floodmaster Edition, featuring heavy stipple reflector. If you chose 'b', you want the ML1 Standard. If you chose 'c', you want the ML1 Smoothie. These choices don't apply if you're keeping the new-style TIR optic.
4. Do you have need for an unusually dim low beam? (Astronomer, photo darkroom, unusually good night vision, covert operations, etc.) If so, please request the ultralow tailcap mod.
5. If we aimed for a pure white tint but missed, would you rather miss with a beam that's a little warm (creamy) or a little cool (frosty)?
6. Is getting your tint preference so important that you're willing to sacrifice 15% of your runtime to get what you want?
7. Is a pure white tint so important that you're willing to lose 35% of the light's brightness to achieve it?
8. Is having a beam free of even minor artifacts so important that you're willing to sacrifice 15% of the beam's range to achieve it?[/QUOTE]
Keeping The New-Style TIR Optic
Some people have asked about the difference between the L1/KL1 with TIR optic, stock vs. SEOULmated. Here's a quick drawing that shows both the difference and my lack of skills in the visual arts!
Should be about the same as this, just brighter...
Here are some quotes I grabbed quickly from Knight Lights' "Interested In Mods?" thread...
In no particular order...
Originally Posted by Knight LightsOriginally Posted by Knight Lights(Actually, a couple people have sold theirs to raise funds, but nobody has yet returned one or sold because they were disappointed, as far as I am aware!)Originally Posted by Knight Lights
Originally Posted by jdriller(The McR18 reflector is now standard.)Originally Posted by flashlight
(Aw shucks. [rosy red cheeks])Originally Posted by slaps
Originally Posted by NotRegulatedOriginally Posted by EuroBeetleOriginally Posted by cd-card-bizOriginally Posted by cd-card-bizOriginally Posted by LurvelevenOriginally Posted by milkyspit