Milky L1 Information Thread

[milkyspit]

Sweet! Thanks!
Did you happen to get the stuff i put in the paypal notes?
I didn't get a reply from the paypal notes so not sure if you got the questions.

Thanks
Aaron

Aaron, all is well and your light is in the mail on its way to you.

Oh, yes I got the notes.

[milkyspit]

Making a Handcut McR19 Reflector

Here are a few photos of the handcut McR19 reflector I modified for use with the Cree emitter in Alin10123's build earlier today... thought they might be interesting...

Next To The Old-Style L1 Head


Closeup, Side View


Closeup, Frontal View


BTW, kudos in order for my east coast buddy Luxlover, who shared with me the secret of using a girly manicure accessory to polish bare aluminum to a glossy sheen! I'm not here to judge.

[milkyspit]

...

So you're saying the warmest "biege" color will be what gives you the best color rendition? Well... in this case it might also be the brightest available bin so far. So i might go with #6 even though this light will be used both indoor and out because you need color rendition indoors too right? hehe

FWIW, both P3-WC (which looks pure white) and P4-WH (which looks a warm, beige-white) seem to render colors well.

Just waiting for milkyspit to chime in and give his thoughts. He's probably busy though.

Busy yes, but catching up, and always welcoming new business!

Did you happen to look at the 27LT from mcgizmo? I'm gonna get one and let milkyspit mod it.

Send it on over when ready.

[milkyspit]

Good luck with the decision! I too found myself going back and forth between all the options. I'm just anxious for the little bugger to arrive.

Chronos, how's that ML1 working out for you?

[milkyspit]

I think my next big mod will be with an Osram LED. Milky, up to it? Maybe in a first-gen KL3? Maybe a mod to the Chrononster... upgrade the WY0S to an Osram?

Chronos, I'm up for the challenge. PM or give me a call whenever convenient.

[milkyspit]

Scott, I'm enjoying my UW0J ML1 a ton. Great light. But I'm considering jumping on the Cree train with an ML1 upgrade to my new stlye stock L1. But do you have any beamshots with the Cree XR-E in the optic versus reflector? Approximate output? Is low a lot brighter with the Cree? If so (I'm sure it is), then is there a way to bring it back down? (new resistor in the tailcap?) I'm sure lots of people would like to know to help make their decisions. I may just have to upgrade both my L1's now... <sigh> my poor wallet.

No beamshot comparison just yet though I'll be posting an ML1 version comparison soon.

Approximate output with Cree P3-WC would be 77 lumens, with Cree P4-WH 84 lumens.

Low is about twice as bright as the Luxeon version, but IMHO still plenty low... and yes, I could swap out the tailcap resistor for a different value to make the low beam even lower if that were important to you.

Ready and willing to do those upgrades... send me PM when ready!

[Nebula]

Scott - PM inbound. Kirk

[Blindasabat]

Getting ~84 lumens is huge compared to the original 22(flashdark) or ~28(FLR) lumens in the new style L1! This thing should be a nice thrower while still having a big spot at distance (? up to 5000 cp @1m as opposed to the original ~1460!). Wow Assuming the optics works the same.
If the low goes from 1-2 lum to only ~2-4 then that should still be nice and low.
I may wait untill I see beamshots though. Are you still using the stock optic or are there optic choices? I'm sure the beam profile is changed by the Cree, I'm just interested to see how.

No beamshot comparison just yet though I'll be posting an ML1 version comparison soon.

Approximate output with Cree P3-WC would be 77 lumens, with Cree P4-WH 84 lumens.

Low is about twice as bright as the Luxeon version, but IMHO still plenty low... and yes, I could swap out the tailcap resistor for a different value to make the low beam even lower if that were important to you.

Ready and willing to do those upgrades... send me PM when ready!

[Alin10123]

Getting ~84 lumens is huge compared to the original 22(flashdark) or ~28(FLR) lumens in the new style L1! This thing should be a nice thrower while still having a big spot at distance (? up to 5000 cp @1m as opposed to the original ~1460!). Wow Assuming the optics works the same.
If the low goes from 1-2 lum to only ~2-4 then that should still be nice and low.
I may wait untill I see beamshots though. Are you still using the stock optic or are there optic choices? I'm sure the beam profile is changed by the Cree, I'm just interested to see how.

No worries. I'll post beamshots when i get mine. It scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

[milkyspit]

Thanks Alin10123.

[milkyspit]

My Pimped-Out ML1

[Alin10123]

Dang... i'm getting REALLY anxious here. LOL
I can't wait. Really hope it gets here tomorrow.

[luxlover]

BTW, kudos in order for my east coast buddy Luxlover, who shared with me the secret of using a girly manicure accessory to polish bare aluminum to a glossy sheen! I'm not here to judge.

The real kudos goes to my deceased mother, who left behind all kinds of fingernail files and buffers, the use of which I came to realize is very handy when smoothing out any surface, especially electric contacts.

This four surfaces in one emery board based file can be found at the cosmetic section of any chain store or department store. I highly recommend using it for light filing and buffing!

[Alin10123]

No worries. I'll post beamshots when i get mine. It scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

Dang... it didn't get here today. So dissappointed. Saw a box in the mail today and thought it was it. Ended up being a Mclux PD fromt he passaround. I guess the good news is that i can do comparison shots between the PD and the ML1 cree. hehe

Can't wait till tomorrow. I was loosing sleep last night. Looks like i'll loose a few more winks tonight.

[Chronos]

Chronos, how's that ML1 working out for you?

Sorry, I've been incredibly busy with work and school. Yeah, work 70+ hours a week building a new business practice plus take 20 credits this semester at school, plus... sorry for the venting!

The ML-1 Cree is wonderful. I'm having a hard time keeping it out of my kid's hands, even as I type this!

I'll see if I have some free time this weekend- if I do, I'll try to take a few pics and beamshots. The output is great, far better than stock. I believe the 84 lumen number. I've had far larger LED lights that don't put out as much light, and very few with as nice a beam.

The beam is a nice smooth comination of a BRIGHT throw beam, a bright and large spill beam (far larger than the A91 Cree's spill, for example) and a dark corona. A couple of nights ago I did a quick comparo of the A19, the ML-1, the E1L, and the A2. I aimed them at a pond in the corner of my backyard, about 25-35' away. The ML-1 had by far the best overall coverage, as I was able to make out a lot of details in the large spill. The A19's output is far higher, but the beam is far narrower as well. The ML-1 is a warm tint (WH) which I prefer for outdoors work; the A19 looked silver/blue in comparison. The A2 had the third best beam pattern, more throw than spill, and the E1L is all throw with a tight little diamond beam pattern. If someone is looking for a tint similar to *X0*, this isn't it. However, if someone wants a great tint for outdoors, this is definitely it. A nice, warm vanilla tint.

Color rendition on the ML-1 was second to the incan A2. It was far better than the A19 or the E1L.

Craftsmanship is great. There is a GITD ring behind the window, a nice touch. It looks like a stock L1 until it is fired up. Then look out!

I don't have a runtime as I've only used it on-and-off for about 30 minutes, and the kids have run it for about 30 more tonight playing "flashlight wars."

Overall I am thrilled with this purchase. The runtime looks to be 3X that (at least) of the A19. The color rendition for outdoors use is the best I've seen in an LED. The beam pattern is a great combination for outdoors use, with that large and relatively bright spill. I prefer the size of the L1 as it fits in my big hands very well. I find the A19 and the E1L to almost be too small, in that my hand tends to cover part of the beam. I also love having two stages. The low is much lower than the high, low enough to use in the car at night, for example, to look at a receipt (my wife did this last night as I was driving) without blinding me, yet brighter than the stock low.

FWIW I do not have any horses in this race- that is, I don't own stock in Cree, I haven't even met Scott (yet), and I have paid for all of my lights and mods. Great work from a master. He's always done great work for me. This is what, at least my third light from you? The ML-1 Cree is a definite keeper.



Now, about the Kroma and SW02...

[Alin10123]

MS,
Just wanted to let you know that i've received the light.
My camera was low on batteries, so i'll try to get some pics up tomorrow when it's charged. At any rate, i noticed a beam diffuser sticker at the head of the light. Or at least something that looks like that. Did surefire put that there? or did you put that there? I was just curious. Will the beam look "ringy" if i take that thing off?

Thanks

[milkyspit]

MS,
Just wanted to let you know that i've received the light.
My camera was low on batteries, so i'll try to get some pics up tomorrow when it's charged. At any rate, i noticed a beam diffuser sticker at the head of the light. Or at least something that looks like that. Did surefire put that there? or did you put that there? I was just curious. Will the beam look "ringy" if i take that thing off?

Thanks

Alin, lately I've been adding the beam diffusing film to Milky L1 builds that use Cree emitters. The Cree inherently has a shadowy "raccoon eye" around the hotspot due to light blocked by the metal ring around the emitter's glass dome... the diffusing film reduces the effect to the point where it's almost unnoticeable, while not reducing overall output to any significant degree. I do a similar thing with LuxV builds to eliminate the donut hole from those beams. That said, you don't necessarily HAVE to use the film... try it without! If you remove the film gently, you should be able to reinstall it if you prefer the beam that way. There's no adhesive beyond the slight tackiness of the film itself, so no harm done to the ML1 lens.

[don_69sbo]

Scott-

pm sent

[Ralf]

Hi Milky,

maybe its somewhere mentioned already in this thread,
did you exchange the L1 electronics as well?

Cheers
Ralf

[milkyspit]

Scott-

pm sent

PM replied.

[milkyspit]

Hi Milky,

maybe its somewhere mentioned already in this thread,
did you exchange the L1 electronics as well?

Cheers
Ralf

Hi Ralf,

In general no, don't change the electronics. There have been one or two odd cases where they needed to be changed, mostly because the stock electronics weren't performing properly. I've also done a few resistor swaps in the tailcap to provide a super low beam for those who specifically wanted it... but that's generally not necessary, either.

[Ralf]

Thanks Milky,

I changed the emitter a long time ago as well and
thinking about give the new Seoul or some more
current a try ...

Cheers
Ralf

[litew8]

Milky Sent a pm, to see what you can do to improve a new style L1. Al

[milkyspit]

Milky Sent a pm, to see what you can do to improve a new style L1. Al

PM replied... uh, quite some time ago. Just wanted to mention.

[slaps]

PM sent about getting my ML-1 Seouled...

[milkyspit]

PM sent about getting my ML-1 Seouled...

PM replied.

[benchmade_boy]

so milky what is the runtime of a ML-1 with P4 Cree in it?

[milkyspit]

so milky what is the runtime of a ML-1 with P4 Cree in it?

Should be about the same as this, just brighter...

[milkyspit]

Time to update this Colorometer again...

The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Seoul and Cree)

Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white)
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white)
LuxIII TWOH
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly)
Seoul P4-USVOI
LuxIII UXOJ
Cree P3-WC (close to the Lumileds XO tint)
LuxIII UWAJ (pure white)
Seoul P4-U-6500K
LuxIII UYOJ
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white)[/QUOTE]

[Blindasabat]

Thanks Scott, nice reference! I will have to try to fit more Cree P4 WH instead of SSC P4 in more lights when I upgrade to get the warmer tints.
Does the bottom of the chart tend toward blue tint, colorless, or what other tints? Just curious, as I prefer the warm (yellowish, incan-like) end of the spectrum anyway. My UW0J ("French vanilla" white) ML1 still rocks my socks off.
I was considering a Seoul P4 (USV0I) upgrade, but maybe The Cree is better for me. How does that Cree P4 WH fit in the old style L1 head and how does it work with the old style 20mm optic? The optics are what I am using in my ML1 now.

Time to update this Colorometer again...

The Milky L1 Colorometer! (including Seoul and Cree)

Cree P4-WH (warmest: beige-white)
LuxIII UWOJ ("French vanilla" white)
LuxIII TWOH
Lux1W SWOH (rich white, hotwire friendly)
Seoul P4-USVOI
LuxIII UXOJ
...
LuxIII TYAH (coolest: frosty white)