I'm not getting 1W from Tektite LPR-113™, Are You?

EngrPaul

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According to the data sheet, this unit is supposed to draw 250 mA at 6V for 1.6 Watt. I bought it from LED-Replacement.com

Here is where the specification is listed.

I'm using 4 brand new alkalines, and I measure only 100 mA. :ohgeez:

I've checked this with two different DMM's and 4 different flashlights with 4 different sets of batteries.

The only thing I can't check is how another bulb from the same brand works, because I only bought one.

CAN ANYONE MEASURE THEIRS?

The color is the most green-tinted flashlight I have. What does that mean?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

qip

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why would you want that in the first place ....you shoulda bought my everled and do a seoul mod to it to use it for 2-6 cells :lolsign: my shameless plug
 

EngrPaul

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I bought it for a camping-style light before the Seouls came out. Before the Crees came out. I've been asking questioning Tektite about the performance for many moons now, and they keep putting off giving me any sort of explanation.

I'd like to use the light as intended, but it's dim.
 

LEDninja

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Both my L1P and L0P-SE on high is brighter than my LPR-113 and LPR-2. The LPR-113 is brighter than my L0P-SE on medium. My LPR-2 is much greener than my LPR-113. Both moch more yellow than my other luxeon lighrs. They are either warm white LEDs of underdriven or both.
Dispite the dimmness when I look at my Dorcy focussing lantern by accident, there is enough light to hurt my eyes.

You are not alone.
Tektite LPR-2 Luxeon LED bulb dimmer than SMJLED
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=123346

I saw a post where a Tectite bulb was measured ar 0.6 watt but I can not find it again.

Rememner the Tectite bulbs were developed when the advice I saw on CPF was to drive Nichia 5mm LEDs at 15mA or less despite the 20mA spec. Now lots of people are driving them at 30mA. Also there was no need to overdrive the Luxeons back then because they were much btighter than the competition - the LEDcorp bulb used in the Turtlelite (Dorcy 4AA 1 LED floating lantern/ cool blue) with a MJ modified Nichia BS 5mm. And American manufacturers are much slower to update their products than Fenix. Took M@g over 20 years.
 
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ace0001a

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I have the 3-cell version of this. Was wondering if it can be taken apart or not to do an emitter swap. The tint that comes out of mines is of typical LuxI white and isn't all that bright. I'm just taking a guess, but it sounds like 250mA would be really low. I think I've noticed before on some direct drive Luxeon flashlights I have that when the batteries start getting low, the tint goes "green". Still, I'd like to take mines apart just to see if the emitter can be swapped.
 

EngrPaul

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Thanks for the valuable information LEDninja.

Sounds like I have confirmation they run it at 0.6 watt but sell it as 1.6 watt.

No wonder they don't say anything when asked. They would have to admit they lie.

Don't you hate it when your 300 horsepower car only has 100?
 

LEDninja

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Don't blame the poor engineers. It's the marketing department. When they see 42 lumens at 350mA on Lumileds spec sheet theyill claim 42 lumens. Terralux does that too. So did Fenix in the early days. Fenix seems to allow for optical loses now so the numbers are less out of whack.
L1P
Claim 42 lumens Measured 28 lumens.
Much better now
E1
Claim 12 lumens measured 11 lumens
L0D-CE high
Claim 50 lumens Measured 46 lumens
 
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EngrPaul

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Yes, please don't blame the Engineers :)

It's their legal and ethical responsibility to have a reasonably accurate specification sheet for the products they sell, no matter which portion of their operation writes it.

The Fenix'es are not rated at 3X the power they produce.
 

LEDninja

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I was thinking of getting a LPR-3 (3 cell 4.5V) to replace the LPR-113. Since the the Tectite bulbs are way underdrinen and I am using NiMH (4.8V) I don't think I will fry anything.

I came across a TerraLUX PR bulb I was not aware of. TLE-1F . For 2 to 9 volt flashlights and lights using 2 to 6 batteries of any size. The picture shows a domed Luxeon instead of the side emitter of the Tectite bulbs. Got mine yesterday.
The TLE-1F is noticeably brighter than the LPR-113 but not a doubling of lumens. Tint on mine is easily the yellowest outside the warm white household bulbs I have (V0?). With most of my flashlights it produced a doughnut hole. The only light it worked with was a 4AA stubby Dorcy Illumunator with a faceted reflector. I did not try it with my MagLED as I already have a Mag 3W upgrade in that. When I compared the bulb to other ones I have (LPR-113, SMJLED PR) the LED was a lot closer to the flange than the other bulbs. This means the LED is not in the focal point of fixed focus flashlights producing the donut hole beam pattern. I am quite disappointed in this as TerralLUX has in the past taken great care in ensuring the LEDs are at the focal point of fixed focus flashlights (QuadSTAR (TLE-3)).
With the easy availablility of Mag's upgrade bulb the market for 3rd party LED bulbs for Maglights is much reduced. As this bulb does not work properly with fixed focus flashlights I do not see where this bulb fits in. TerraLUX needs to stretch the front body of the bulb so the LED is at the focal point of fixed focus flashlights.
Did a search on CPF and only found a post where someoue was selling their TLE-1F on B/S/T.

I think I will order a Tectite LPR-3 after all.
 
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LEDninja

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Got my LPR-3. Took Canada Post 9 days to deliver the EXPEDITED PARCEL from Saskatoon to Hamilton!

The LPR-3 on 3 cells (Sunbeam carbon zinc) is much brighter than the LPR-113 on 4 cells. Either Tectite is now much less conservative in the design of their bulbs or Lumileds is making more efficient LEDs or both. Brightness did not change much on 4 NiMH. like the TLE-1F the LPR-3 has a very yellow tint (?V0). Not as warm as a warm white Luxeon.

(brighter) MagLED 3W > LPR-3 > TLE-1F > LPR-113 (dimmer)

Since I think I am slightly overdriving the LED I hope the LED does not smoke and I don't melt the bulb holder.
 
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