GatLight V3 - Carbon Fiber / Titanium with Cree XR-E

[Eric242]

Wow, both of them are beauties! Now I am getting really excited, hopefully it won´t take too long for my tux to arrive over here in germany and hopefully the customs don´t hold it up.

Judging from those pictures I woulnd´t be able to make my mind for a Ti or Tux.

Eric

[Argent60]

It would've been crazy (financially speaking), but now I'm thinking I should have both both kinds.
Excellent work!

Argent60

[kiely23+]

real sexy...

[amphipolis]

An assembly facility like that seems very fitting for a light this cool. It doesn't look like a factory, it looks like a temple of science.

Thanks for the pictures, Walter. You have produced an amazing light.

[Phredd]

THEY LOOK TOTALLY AWESOME!!!! I can't wait -- sooooo close now.

It would've been crazy (financially speaking), but now I'm thinking I should have both both kinds.

Well I am crazy. I couldn't choose either, so I ordered both.

Phredd

[AndyTiedye]

I am looking forward to the arrival of my Ti. It will be joining my Al v2 and my SS/TiN v2.


I have to admit that the tuxedo version looks nice too… must resist…

[M.TEX]

Wow it's amazing ! they look VERY NICE !

So that's a job well done ! let's just wait another week and I should have my V3...

Good Job Walter and Kyle sign me up for another
Project ! Any light from you guys is a MUST HAVE !

Count me in any day , any time

[greenlight]

wow, I like the look of the knob, it's nice and beefy.

Does the clean room do anything to protect the parts? They all seem to be exposed, anyway.

[Stillphoto]

Incredible, hopefully I'll get to see one of these in person sometime.

[mobile1]

Glad you guys like it....

Update
Ok so here is the status... first it takes longer to assemble these beauties than we anticipated. To assemble the 40 parts you can see here (the driver counting as one - even though it consists of over 40 parts itself - but we did assemble those already)



The machine shop was supposed to provide 2-4 people for assembly today which didn't quite happen. However after 2 days of assembly it looks like we can ship about 50-60% of the Titanium units to the warehouse this Monday... meaning it will likely get shipped out to you guys this coming week. Than we hope to wrap up assembly of the remaining TI units by the end of this coming week.

The Tuxedo units will go last. The reason for this is we test every unit for excellent conductivity and we noticed that some Tuxedo units are not perfect in that regard. Annodize is non conductive. As some might know, we have a primary electric path go from the back of the knob to the black-annodized housing in the back (so the knob thread is masked) than through the bars (so holes are masked as well) to the black annodized center section (another masking step for the holes). Masking these holes is a very delicate step - and isn't always perfect.

So we decided to add 2 extra steps on the Tux units (one being a milling operation) to achieve what we are looking for in regards to conductivity which is why those will ship last. I don't know whether we'll do anymore of those Tuxedos in the future. Making it all work, conductivity etc. takes a lot of time, masking, testing etc.

Anyway that's the schedule for now. Maybe we can speed up assembly, depending on how many people the company provides us with this coming week.

So to sum it up half of you guys should have your GatLights very soon. The Tux will go out last but since we likely won't be doing more of those they will be pretty unique.

Questions
Who gets -001-? Well our tradition has been that I'll get 001 and Kyle 002. However if we ever open up a Lumencraft Museum - the 001's would go in there

Clean room purpose? The room we do the assembly in which is in the photo will be a clean room in the future. Now it's not yet it's just built out.
For now we're just doing the assembly in that room.

The entire process is very different from the garage&kitchen operation of the last rounds. Every part goes through QC and is carefully tracked. So the entire process is very professional - not even mentioning the know how we have access to at this company. The result of all this can really be seen.

Anyway, still lots of work to do - f.e. almost 6,000 screws to screw - We were wondering today who ever came up with that idea to put 24 screws into such a small flashlight




PS Andy that SS-TIn coated GatV2 looks awesome... I wonder if its possible to get that coating onto steel - and coat some screws.. that would look awesome... if you ever plan to do some screws let me know I'd want a set.

[wvaltakis2]

So... I could be there in about... half an hour if you guys need an extra hand.

Save you some money on processing and shipping my ti


~Chip

[Phredd]

...it looks like we can ship about 50-60% of the Titanium units to the warehouse this Monday... The Tuxedo units will go last.

So, it could be a while before I get my Tux. If I'm not in the 50-60%, you could just send me the parts. It could be fun putting it together myself.

[Shurock]

Oh, so close.

Someone, please go on a limb and tell us the best rechargeable battery type and voltage to use. I know there are many options, but I just want one definitive choice by an expert. I want to have it ready when GLV3 arrives. I am guessing others would like to know as well. Can't wait to don that tuxedo.

Thanks.

Patrick

[Phredd]

I think it has to be 3 volts, not 3.7.

[DFiorentino]

I think it has to be 3 volts, not 3.7.

http://www.gatlight.com/Specifications.htm

3.7V (4.2V) Li-ion recommended. Primary CR123A used at reduced max brightness.

-DF

[Phredd]

I thought the V3 was designed for the 123 primary instead of the 3.7v rechargeable. I just looked back and found this:

Difference to the GatLight V2
The V3 will be
-brighter (Seoul P4 (250 Lumen instead of Luxeon 3 or K2 - 90-120 Lumen LED all MFG-Claims)
...
-The driver will be ideally suited for 123 primary lithiums 3V or 3V rechargeables.

Specifications

LED: Seoul P4 (240+ Lumen MFG claim)
OPTICS: narrow beam optics
BATTERY: 1 x 3V 123 Lithium Ion or 3V rechargeable (3.6V also work but you don't get lower brightness levels)
...

It seems there's a discrepency between this and the specs posted on their web site.

[Amorphous]

Did some basic search, and found the following posts that will answer the questions about circuit/driver and batteries:


Post - #479 ( 3/2/07 )
Just to clarify the battery issue. The variable brightness works just as well on 3.0V as it does on 3.6V. The only difference is that the output current will be limited to about 500 to 600 mA with the 3.0V. If you want to maximize the output current than we suggest that you use the 3.6V because you will be able to achieve about 1100 mA. However at this high of a current you cannot leave the light on for more than a minute or two. But keep in mind that the highest level with a 3.0V is still brighter than the max output of the V2! Thanks to the new LED.


Post - #498 ( 3/5/07 )
Let me give you a detailed description of 3.6V vs 3V batteries: Generally we spec the light to be used with primary lithium cells.. that is for the general public or simply people who are not that flashlight savy as most of you guys (to you we speced it as 3.6V and 3V below is why).

If you use the light with 3V primary lithium cells the maximum output power is about 600-700mA. The reason for that is the buck/boost chip we are using has a maximum current the chip can handle. Now the lower the battery voltage, the more current the chip has to pull. So if you use a primary lithium and shoot 700mA to the LED... the battery voltage drops from 3V to about 2V... this requires higher currents. If you factor in 123 battery voltage drop under load.. and the max current of the regulation chip you get about 600-700mA to the LED with primary lithiums.

600 or 700 mA is actually an ideal setting, because its a level where you can leave the light on safely for a long period of time. I noticed that quite a few builders (of 1x123 lights) ship their lights with these drive currents. Those who use higher currents tell you to only use it for a limited amount of time (f.e. the spy). Besides running the LEd at 1000mA compared to 700mA is not that much of a difference in terms of brightness, especially if you factor in the heat buildup and impact on brightness. So 700mA makes sense and we feel that you can give the light to an everyday user and he can run the light safely as often as he wants. The nice thing is that the buck/boost chip's max. current limit creates this limit so it wasn't even something we had to implement.

However we know that you guys want as bright as possible and want to run 1000mA or more even if it's not that efficient.. In order to do that, you put a battery in that has a higher voltage (f.e. a rechargeable 3.6V lithium ion). Since the voltage is higher, you won't ever hit the maximum input current of the chip even under load, so you max out at the max. current we set, which is 1000-1100mA. (**)




** And toward the end, the max current was set to around 800mA for effieciency and thermal considerations.

[Amorphous]

Walter / Kyle,
Awesome work !! I am so glad I've prepaid. Ha haaa.. ( Dodging from the Naysayers )
You see, we got to have faith, especially when you see innovations like this, I did when I first saw the first Version 1 Gatlight design back in 2005. Great job!
Love the whole entire project evolution experience you guys put together. From conception to physical realization, from start to finish, it's great to be part of this experience.


Amorphous

[Stillphoto]

It's called use what you have. Use primaries, woo hoo. Use Rechargeables, woo hoo, a bit brighter and warmer. Win-win for all!

By the way, the weave on the carbon is beautiful, I like the diagonal bias that you went with instead of lining it up more square to the light. Also, the machined finish is really superb.

I can only imagine what the employees are thinking...Used to putting together insanely cool mil-spec equipment, and now flashlights. I guarantee that was not something they saw themselves doing! They probably dig it though, a change of pace.

I think everyone can handle the longer build times when you make such concise posts documenting the process. Cheers!

[AndyTiedye]

PS Andy that SS-TIn coated GatV2 looks awesome... I wonder if its possible to get that coating onto steel - and coat some screws.. that would look awesome... if you ever plan to do some screws let me know I'd want a set.

That is a stainless steel Gatlight under the TiN, and the screws are coated too.
Modamag arranged for the coating
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=163656

The coating is most commonly done on steel. Check out the drill bits in any good hardware store.
You'll find some with TiN coating (which should also give an indication of how tough it is!)

[skalomax]

Ok, I want one.

Where can I get one? will these be shipped from CONUS?
thanks

[Miciobigio]

Great job !!!!

[Phredd]

Ok, I want one. Where can I get one?

There's a link near the top of the first post.

[The Coach]

Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!!!
First McGizmo's, now GatLights, I'm going to die a poor, weak man.

[Derek Dean]

Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!!!
First McGizmo's, now GatLights, I'm going to die a poor, weak man.

Maybe, but between now and then you will have some awesome lights to play with!

[mobile1]

Half of the Titanium units have been sent to the warehouse, most of them by express mail, meaning they should be mailed out to you guys this week. You should get a tracking number when that happens so keep your eyes open.


Anyway Kyle and I are looking forward to hearing your comments on the V3... let's see who'll get it first...


Oh and by the way start taking photos as with the last round we'll again have a photo competition - the winner will get a free light - our next upcoming light - which will be again unique (and introduce some interesting features you'll likely haven't seen before )


Here are some photos of the GatLight assembly. Of course there are a lot more steps and sub assemblies (driver, knobs etc) than what you can see here. There are over 42 steps to assemble each light - NOT counting the driver assembly which in itself is complex.

The photos show the first step, building the center tube where the Carbon Fiber is epoxied to the metal parts using a special silicone based epoxy to provide submersible water sealing. Once it is all wiped clean and cleaned with alcohol. Second picture shows the bars being inserted. Than you can see the front screws to be tightened, optics and Oring placement, the back screws that need to be tightened, driver insertion and fastening, than battery, Than we do a thorough function test of all features. The last picture shows the matching of the box with the light's serial number, before the light assembly is completed.



To answer the question regarding shipping. The lights will ship from Toledo, Ohio.

[hivoltage]

TOLEDOThats like a 2 hour drive from me!!! The lights look awsome guys. No matter how nice they are, I am carrying mine....no Shelf Queen for my Gatlight. I already have a holster made for it.

[The Coach]

Maybe, but between now and then you will have some awesome lights to play with!

That's true, and since I recently got my 25th Strider, when Death comes for me, he's going to have a fight on his hands.
Now, back out to the mail box.

[TigerhawkT3]

Half of the Titanium units have been sent to the warehouse, most of them by express mail, meaning they should be mailed out to you guys this week. You should get a tracking number when that happens so keep your eyes open.

Oh and by the way start taking photos as with the last round we'll again have a photo competition - the winner will get a free light - our next upcoming light - which will be again unique (and introduce some interesting features you'll likely haven't seen before )

Will do!

[276]

is this a one time deal or should i break the bank and get one now???