Coleman 4AA Exponent® Pack-Away®

[LowBat]

I would check my batteries too except I gave my lantern away as a raffle prize at the last flashapalooza. I can't see the lantern drawing any current when stored as the electrical contacts (the two metal support poles) are disconnected when the lantern is in the closed position.

[SilverFox]

Hello Sigman,

I "may" have shown it off a little too much...

Tom

[SilverFox]

Update:

I just checked my batteries and they all tested at 100% on the ZTS. I will go another couple of weeks and check again.

Tom

[Lunal_Tic]

Update:

I just checked my batteries and they all tested at 100% on the ZTS. I will go another couple of weeks and check again.

Tom

Thanks for testing this out Tom.

-LT

[SilverFox]

Update:

All 4 cells are still showing 100% on the ZTS tester.

I am now thinking that I just used up my first set. If there is a draw on the cells with everything shut down, it is very little and is not an "issue."

This test has completed and now I am going to get back to using my lantern.

Tom

[daveman]

Thanks for the going through the trouble for us, Tom.

[mrmike]

Anyone know an easy way to disassemble the lantern without damaging it?

I have an idea to reduce the glare that I'd like to try, but it looks like once the clear dome is slid into the double walled body (at the factory); there seems to be no way to get it off without permanently breaking some of the plastic.

[DM51]

I disassembled mine a while ago, and stuck some diffuser material on the inside of the dome to try to get rid of those atrocious artifacts. It didn't work well, and the light from it looked a bit yellow and some of the artifacts were still there despite the film.

To be honest, I've now completely given up on it. The Coast lantern is a far better unit.

[luminiferous]

Anyone know an easy way to disassemble the lantern without damaging it?

I have an idea to reduce the glare that I'd like to try, but it looks like once the clear dome is slid into the double walled body (at the factory); there seems to be no way to get it off without permanently breaking some of the plastic.

I agree that a diffuser immediately inside the globe is not the way to go. To the best of my recollection, if you want to get the globe off, you need to carefully wedge a soft plastic or nylon tool in between the bottom outer casing the globe itself. I used a wide nylon screwdriver I own that is intended for adjusting certain types of variable inductors.

There are tabs at the bottom of the globe that point outward toward the bottom casing. It's necessary to flex the globe inward from the bottom housing to get these tabs past their stops. I vaguely recall having to move one side at a time. I think I started with one of the sides. This is a tricky operation and it was the most difficult part of disassembly.

Here's a shot of the disassembled globe so you can get an idea of what to expect.

[mrmike]

thanks luminiferous!

Living somewhat in the suburbs, power outages are common. As a college student who needs to cram in the wee hours of the morning, this can be a big deal. We had an ice storm a few weeks ago, lost power for about 6 hours, and I needed to study all night. Thankfully someone has a bunch of flashlights.

Although the flashlight collection was a saviour, the glare from the emitters while trying to read a textbook is really hard on the eyes. I wanted some sort of compact lantern I could set on my desk to study by; did some searching, and obviously found the Coleman which is -almost- perfect. It really is well made, but again the glare from the emitter off the smooth reflectors feels like it's melting a hole in my brain.

Someone here mentioned painting the conical reflector white which is a good idea; although the reflective silver would transmit more light if I could find a way to disperse the light better.

I used to work for an art materials company, and we sold supplies for professional sign painters. Some would use Scotchlite reflective glass beads for lettering, which are microscopic, clear glass beads that catches light from all angles and has terrific reflectivity/visibility. It's the same material used on highway signs and on running shoes. Great stuff (but insanely expensive). You can get generic at some art/craft shops, industrial supply companies, or Ebay (just google for "reflective glass beads). The non-3M brands are 98% as good and a heck of a lot cheaper.

I took one of my lamps apart (and broke it somewhat in my haste), but I decided to sacrifice one, and not worry about neatness just to find out if this crazy idea had any merit. I used 5-min epoxy and brushed it on like a paint, then poured the beads on top.

It's deceiving in the picture, but the beads are perfectly clear, that yellowish/browish color is something my camera did:






You can see with/without beads here:



Stock on left, reflective beads on right:






It doesn't get rid of the artifacts, but it's perfectly comfortable to look at; much easier on the eyes!





Again, stock on left, beads on right:


It's actually quite a success, and easy to do; although taking the dome apart is tough (like lumeniferous pointed out). If I did it again, I'd take my time so as to not crack the case or scratch up the dome, and I'd use a slower setting epoxy (like the 2-ton at Walmart) to have more time to paint a nicer/thin layer on the chrome before applying the beads.

Hint... if you do something like this, put some bits of tape on the top/bottom of the lantern to mark the orientation; so you don't get your polarity wrong when you put it back together like I did:
"Why won't my light turn on? What's that burning smell? Uh oh..."

[DM51]

mrmike, that is a very clever idea, and it makes a big improvement.

Did you consider applying the beads to the entire inside surface of the globe/window? If that could be done, it might eliminate the artifacts altogether.

[mrmike]

DM51 Did you consider applying the beads to the entire inside surface of the globe/window? If that could be done, it might eliminate the artifacts altogether.

Yes... but it would make the globe unable to slide down anymore, there wouldn't be enough space to squeeze inside the walls of the base.

Note that the beads need to lay on top of the surface to work as intended (reflect properly). When they letter something like a fire truck, the beads aren't mixed in the lettering enamel; they paint first, and apply the beads on top of the paint; they have to stick out like a wart to catch/diffuse the light.

You did get me thinking, if you covered the dome anyway, although they wouldn't reflect because the light source would be inside, and what you're illuminating is outside, you're right; they'd sure make for a heck of a good diffuser. Well... let's find out!

Instead of taking it apart and covering the inside, I put them on the outside (it'll be stuck open forever).







I have no way to test what the lumen/output difference is with the beads. How about the "can I read a textbook in a power outage test"?






Let's compare artifacts... wow, a picture is worth a thousand words.

[DM51]

D'OH! I should have thought about the problem of closing it. But wow, what a MASSIVE improvement with the diffusion beads there! Well worth not being able to close it, IMO.

[daveman]

It is noticeably dimmer than it was before though.

[Kankujoe]

I have grandchildren. They seem to go through socks like a hot knife through butter. I picked up some old socks and cut the feet off. I slide the sock over my lantern and when I want diffused light I simply slide it up. It gives a very nice soft diffused beam. If you are venturous, you can use some colored socks.

The white sock on the lantern makes it more visible in the dark, it does not scratch the lamp, and it is washable if it gets dirty.

If you want to play around a little... try sliding the sock only half way up, or only half way down. This gives you some diffused light as well as some with artifacts.

Tom

What a great idea! Thanks for posting it. This is a great solution to the artifacts and to evenly diffuse the light!

I also tried a white plastic Walmart bag... it too diffuses the light and eliminates the artifacts.

[black06]

luminiferous would it be possible for you to post a photo of your Glorb XB next to another lantern? I am thinking about getting one but did not like the "harsh" light my Glorb projects. I recently bought two Black Diamond Orbits and have been happy with them but would like to see if Brunton improved on the Glorb. Thanks in advance.

[luminiferous]

luminiferous would it be possible for you to post a photo of your Glorb XB next to another lantern? I am thinking about getting one but did not like the "harsh" light my Glorb projects. I recently bought two Black Diamond Orbits and have been happy with them but would like to see if Brunton improved on the Glorb. Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but I know longer have my Glorb XB. I gave it away. There's been some very good mods done to it. See this link for the mods, where you can also see beamshots of it.

If you don't mind "bluish" light, the Rayovac 1 watt Sportsman Xtreme (70 lumen) is a great little lantern. It has all the same features of the 300 lumen, which I also have, but it's size is the same as the Glorb. I can post beamshots of it next to my 4AA Pack-Away and the Rayovac 300 lumen Sportsman Xtream if you're interested.

[black06]

luminiferous thank you for the quick response.

guess i'll stick with my Orbits.

i do prefer the bluish tint vs. the orange incandescent look.

i can only describe that it looks "cleaner" than old school incandescent tint allowing you to see into the shadows better.

[LowBat]

Coleman has a new model (as of March 2010) that has the frosting included. Link here.

[Locoboy5150]

There is a company named Ruchuang that markets the same 4 AA LED light that Coleman sells as the Pack-Away:

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sk...p_(4xAA)-29907

Though I don't need another lantern as I love my Coleman Pack-Away, I do like that carry case that comes with the Ruchuang version.

[kevinm]

D'OH! I should have thought about the problem of closing it. But wow, what a MASSIVE improvement with the diffusion beads there! Well worth not being able to close it, IMO.

I added wax paper to the outside of the lantern lens. It still closes and there are no artifacts now!

[argleargle]

I added wax paper to the outside of the lantern lens. It still closes and there are no artifacts now!

You're a scholar and a gentleman.

I have a Coleman 4aa pack away, the eye glare and the artifacts made me hurt. My options were to hang it from my neck, above my head, or duct tape it to the front of my hat to avoid the pain. Unacceptable for a $30-light. Since this is CPF, I'm learning that we don't junk them, we mod them!

Your super-easy no-disassembly wax paper mod suggestion was spot-on. Why didn't I think of that?? This lantern is now *EXACTLY* what I was looking for (for the past 4 years.) It now has replaced three lanterns. Gonna get another one!

+1, would read again. BRAVO! I love this place...