Modded a SL Survivor LED with an SSC P4.

[Gnufsh]

edit: Clip is back on, still no pictures yet, sorry (I have no idea where my camera charger is). Expanded mod description.

I put a SSC P4 (USV0I) in my SL Survivor LED with a copper spacer. I started by removing the reflector, which simply unscrews. To get at the light engine, I first had to remove the clip, which can be done by pushing the metal bar attaching the clip through with a small phillips screwdriver or similar poking device. This exposes the two screws that hold the light engine in place. Take these out and the light engine can drop out the bottom.

I simply de-soldered the old LED and soldered on the new one with a copper spacer from the SS inbetween it and the heatsink. I used AS5 on the thermal interfaces.

I was hoping that it wouldn't be necessary since the reflector didn't rest on the stock led, but I had to sand the reflector ever so slightly for ideal focus and to get it to screw on all the way.

The beam is much brighter, with about the same beam profile. In addition, I like the warm tint much better (it's good for outdoors/steam cutting). I'll update with beamshots when I find my camera charger. I will also post impressions of smoke cutting next time we do a live burn (or have an actual fire). The beam from the Lux III did an excellent job of cutting smoke, and I'm hoping the brighter (but still about as tight) and warmer beam should do even better.


edit: this next problem was solved:
I am having a problem getting the spring-loaded clip back together. I had to take it off to get to the screws to drop out the light engine. Now I can't get it back together. I'll take a picture this evening. Any ideas would be great.

[boef800]

The solution of this problem I've come up with is as follows:
look for something what you can use as spacer.For example a metal pin which has roughly the same dimensions as the original pin(I mean the axis of the clip) but is shorter in so far that it doesn't reach over the limits of the metal assembly where the pin goes in.Or you use two little pins which are long enough two hold the spring together with the metalframe.Then you can assemble the spring with the metal frame/holder just like it's supposed to be but without the clip yet,then put the clip on,hold/secure it in the correct position by one hand and push the "dummypin" out by pushing in the original pin from one side.Maybe it's a bit fiddeling,but in the end it works.
Sorry for the cumberstone description,I hope you can understand it good enough.For more complex things then day by day chatting my english is to limited.

Greetz,Alex

[Gnufsh]

The solution of this problem I've come up with is as follows:
look for something what you can use as spacer.For example a metal pin which has roughly the same dimensions as the original pin(I mean the axis of the clip) but is shorter in so far that it doesn't reach over the limits of the metal assembly where the pin goes in.Or you use two little pins which are long enough two hold the spring together with the metalframe.Then you can assemble the spring with the metal frame/holder just like it's supposed to be but without the clip yet,then put the clip on,hold/secure it in the correct position by one hand and push the "dummypin" out by pushing in the original pin from one side.Maybe it's a bit fiddeling,but in the end it works.
Sorry for the cumberstone description,I hope you can understand it good enough.For more complex things then day by day chatting my english is to limited.

Greetz,Alex

Thanks for the description, It sounds like a good idea. In the end, my brother fixed it while I was at work (working 11+ hour days 7 days in a row doesn't leave a ton of time for modding).

Your english sounds (reads?) fine to me, and I hope to be reading more of your posts in the future.

[boef800]

Thanks for the description, It sounds like a good idea. In the end, my brother fixed it while I was at work (working 11+ hour days 7 days in a row doesn't leave a ton of time for modding).

Your english sounds (reads?) fine to me, and I hope to be reading more of your posts in the future.

...then your brother must have read my tutorial.I've done the seouling to my survivor too a few days ago,it's really a good bit brighter now I think.oh yes,11/7 sounds bad and familiar,I feel with you.

greetings,alex

[srvctec]

for pics

[SmokeDiver]

Would this be something you would condisder doing for a fellow CPFer, if the right materials and financing could be arranged?


How much better is the SSC P4 than the Luxeon III that in their now? Any measurements?....Thanks..

[ernsanada]

I just did the mod with a SSC-P4.

I am stuck at that clip. If anybody has a picture on which way to put the spring I would appreciate it.

Thanks!

[ernsanada]

I finally got the clip on!

The L shaped spring faces open end towards the top

I put the pin that holds the clip in on the left. On the right I used an end of a drill to hold the right side.

I used 2 screwdrivers, long with small tips to force the L shaped bend over the stop on the plastic clip. It takes some finese to push the screwdriver down on the left and try to use your right hand to force the L shaped part over the plastic stop.

Once that is done I used a small hammer to tap the pin through. Once it starts on the other side I had to use a larger hammer to force the pin through.

This is a picture that might help explain things. I wish I could have took step by step pictures but it is hard when you have 2 screwdrivers in your hand.

[boef800]

ernsanada,
what do you feel about the seouled survivor?
Not a bad amount of light on low for around six hours in an quite robust package,isn't it?

Alex

[ernsanada]

ernsanada,
what do you feel about the seouled survivor?
Not a bad amount of light on low for around six hours in an quite robust package,isn't it?

Alex

The beam is a lot brighter than the 3 Watt Luxeon that was in there. No more of that slight green tint. I also made sure I centered the SSC P4.

Now I really like the Survivor.

[ernsanada]

Changed out the 3 Watt Luxeon which was off center and had a slight green tint to a SSC-P4.

Survivor 3 Watt Luxeon @78"



Survivor SSC-P4 @ 78"



Survivor SSC-P4 @ 78" Stepped down exposure.

[KingGlamis]

Is it just my monitor or does the 3 watt Luxeon look brighter and with a better spill?

[softfeel]

I don't think the shutter speed is the same for the different pictures.

The first one (luxeon) is 1/8 of a second and the second (SSC p4) one is 1/36 of a second.

I don't think the photos were taken at the same time or even with the same camera.

When you download the photos you can get this information by right-clickin them.

[ernsanada]

Is it just my monitor or does the 3 watt Luxeon look brighter and with a better spill?

The pictures were taken with a different camera.

From actually seeing both lights in person the SSC is brighter and has more side spill than the Luxeon.

[ernsanada]

I don't think the shutter speed is the same for the differnt pictures.

The first one (luxeon) is 1/8 of a second and the second (SSC p4) one is 1/36 of a second.

I don't think the photos were taken at the same time or even with the same camera.

When you download the photos you can get this information by right-clickin them.

I returned the first digital camera I had. It was a Sony DSC W1, 5 meg. point and shoot. The Sony had a broken battery door. It is a very bad design that about 30 others had. I found a website and there were many others with the same problem.

I bought it from Costco a little over 2 years ago. Costco took it back and I got a full refund. Costco return policy is now 90 days for digital cameras, cell phones, TV's, computers anything electronic.

I used the refund and had to pay only $23.00 for a Nikon P5000, 10 Meg. point and shoot digital camera.

I took the Luxeon beam shot with my Sony and the SSC-P4 with the Nikon.

[Gnufsh]

Sorry I haven't been on for a while to help. Replaceing the clip is the most difficult part of the mod, thanks for your post of a pic. THis is an excellent mod to increase the performance of of the survivor led, and I love it. Mine lives on my turnout gear at the volunteer fire department now.

[Gnufsh]

Well, I bought a neutral white K2-TFFC and swapped it out with the SSC P4. The neutral white is awesome, cuts through smoke better and better color rendering outdoors. I believe the new versions of this light (advertised as having a "C4" LED) use the K2, so it should be an easy swap on those as well. IMHO, the neutral white LED and the warmer tints are very helpful in fire/ems/rescue.

edit:
Also, don't forget to remove the copper spacer. I still just used Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound and held the led down while I soldered it to to keep pressure on the thermal joint. I used a bit driver with no bit in in to push down on the led and center it without putting pressure on the dome.

[wechnivag]

I have tried using a XR-E in the SL Survivor LED, it gives an awesome hotspot.

Only thing is the reflector needs to be trimmed about 2mm to get the XR-E in deep enough to the focal point.

Currently waiting for a XP-G to see how it works in the Survivor LED reflector. Imagine the sheer output of the XP-G with the awesome hotspot of the Survivor.

[wechnivag]

Finally got my XP-G after a 2 week wait. The beam is incredible!!
I'll let the pics do the talking.

Old and new.


ISO 100 1 sec exposure


ISO 100 1/4s exposure


ISO 100 1/25s exposure


I reckon the reflector needs to be trimmed about 1-2 mm to get the die in the correct focal point.