Unique Surefire

[bombelman]

Yellow, from under which rock did you come crawling ?

FluPIC info here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=151572

[yellow]

how to contact goldserve? Anyone has a link to his e-mail, seems his PM box is full.

wow, nice, thank You for stealing my time to read these 2 pages ( )
unfortunately there is also no info on how to contact goldserve when his PM box is full (same when following all links, no contact info, but much concerning the diferent boards)

gonna try PM again.

PS: the drivers from the shoppe dont work, dont ask me why (this year I already tried bb, nexgen, gd and downboy. bb works best, but I am currently switching from 2 cell Ni-Mh to one 18650 setup - nothing works good. BB still best but showing some kind of direct-drive-like current regulation)

@ cmacclel: question to powering the lamp,
I understand the driver can be hooked between switch and battery to power up, but how do You change the levels. Original setup might use a pushbutton. Did You drill a hole somewhere into the body for this, or ... ?
The SF tailcap switch wont work for making battery connection as well as level selection (?)

[cmacclel]

wow, nice, thank You for stealing my time to read these 2 pages ( )
unfortunately there is also no info on how to contact goldserve when his PM box is full (same when following all links, no contact info, but much concerning the diferent boards)

gonna try PM again.

PS: the drivers from the shoppe dont work, dont ask me why (this year I already tried bb, nexgen, gd and downboy. bb works best, but I am currently switching from 2 cell Ni-Mh to one 18650 setup - nothing works good. BB still best but showing some kind of direct-drive-like current regulation)

@ cmacclel: question to powering the lamp,
I understand the driver can be hooked between switch and battery to power up, but how do You change the levels. Original setup might use a pushbutton. Did You drill a hole somewhere into the body for this, or ... ?
The SF tailcap switch wont work for making battery connection as well as level selection (?)

I bet if you did a search on Flupic you would find all there is to know

The Flupic can use any switch, reverse clicky's are better. When you power the light on you have about 800ms to click on and off again to change to the next mode. After 800ms it locks into that mode.

Mac

[milkyspit]

The Flupic can use any switch, reverse clicky's are better. When you power the light on you have about 800ms to click on and off again to change to the next mode. After 800ms it locks into that mode.

Mac, that's the most succinct description of how to use a FLuPIC that I've ever seen!

[dizzy]

Mac, that's the most succinct description ...

I have to admit, I had to look up that word.

[chevrofreak]

that belongs here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=153590

[Aepoc]

Scroll down to see what I said... I got a little carried away with the mouse button.

[Aepoc]

That top down shot of the head almost brings a tear to my eye. Such a beautiful work of art.

[r3d33m3r]

Dude that is a H&K USP COMPACT !!!!!!! Damn nice piece of equipment, oh and the light too.
Regards.

[cmacclel]

I have to admit, I had to look up that word.

I just had to look it up myself


Mac

[nein166]

Regarding the glow inset what epoxy product do you use? I have the GlowInc powder just need a suggestion on epoxy to get my light glowing.

[yellow]

as far as I understand, there is Your heatsink where You fixed emitters and the driver, placed inside the light (is this aluminium?).
How do You manage to get the negative driver contact to the body?
"Only" pressed down by bezel?
Seems I get constant bad connection probs with that thin spring steel rod pushing against the FL-body, I use for this

[Regentag]

Incredible work, Mac... just when things were getting boring, you raise the bar and hit us between the eyes!

Well done!

I have GOT to get me one of these!

[2sparky]

Haha just a little late on finding this but I see you never posted pictures of the disassembled body so we could see how you made more threads. maybe you could put these up or PM me some pictures.Much appreciated thanks.

[cmacclel]

Haha just a little late on finding this but I see you never posted pictures of the disassembled body so we could see how you made more threads. maybe you could put these up or PM me some pictures.Much appreciated thanks.

The light has been out of my hands for months. As for the adding of threads I just slight bored the tail end and pressed in a new section about .500 long with more threads.

Mac

[marcdilnutt]

That is sweet. How did you get the bezel off the M3 head? I have been trying to get the one off mine for ages and have given up. It wont budge no matter how much i heat it. What am i missing?

Well It's definetly One of a kind

-LU10 Kit modified. I had to add about 10 threads to the tail threads in order to fit a tailswitch.....not fun
-3x Cree XR-E P4 WG tint
-MCR17XR Reflectors
-17670 powered
-Tri-Flupic Driver - Currently set at 20ma Low, 850ma High, 2.3 amps Burst
-SW02 Tailswitch
-Custom Heatsink
-Heatsink potted with Epoxy / Glow Powder

[cmacclel]

Heat and a good grip

Mac