DX "HASTO" LED Headlamp with Seoul Upgrade

[EngrPaul]

I get a bunch of questions about the Headlamp, that I modify to use a Seoul P4 U-Bin / W0 color, and sell (see my signature).

Well, here is a picture review. If you have questions, let me know. I intend to get some current readings later.

The headlamp features a 1W setting, 3W setting, and dual-LED red blinker.

Front:


Back, notice two magnets which hold the unit against a metal cabinet, etc.


Straight-ahead shot, with blinking red LED's


Switch is on one side, the black button.


The battery compartment is on the opposite side:


Unscrew to expose battery pack:


Battery Pack slides out:


1W setting, running on 3 AAA NiMH:


3W setting, running on 3 AAA NiMH:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (Low-12 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (Med-72 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:


REFERENCE PHOTO: Fenix P1D-CE (High-135 lumens) running on 3.0V Lithium primary:

[Vikas Sontakke]

The beamshots are for *un-modded* HASTO, correct?

- Vikas

[EngrPaul]

No, the beamshots are for the modded version running NiMH batteries, what I would expect most people would be using. It would probably be brighter running Alkaline or Lithium e^2. It's probably 90-100 lumens on high with NiMH according to the photographs (your eyeballs may vary)

[adirondackdestroyer]

Wow, very impressive!


Have you modded a PT EOS with a soul or cree yet? If so how are the results? I have a SXOH modded EOS with reflector and would love mine to get the Cree/P4 upgrade!

[EngrPaul]

The other headlamps I have modified are Dorcy and Brinkmann. No Apex yet.

[EngrPaul]

Here's the front of the package, for more info about the stock application. The back of the package just shows how to change the batteries.

Where it says "Normal LED", substitute "Water-Clear red LED, flashing only"

[Vikas Sontakke]

No, the beamshots are for the modded version running NiMH batteries, what I would expect most people would be using. It would probably be brighter running Alkaline or Lithium e^2. It's probably 90-100 lumens on high with NiMH according to the photographs (your eyeballs may vary)

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world :-)

- Vikas

[IdiotsAbound]

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world :-)

- Vikas

He put a Seoul in the lamp, not a Cree.

I have the same headlight from DX and I am just waiting for the 3 U-bin Seouls I ordered to show up. I am looking forward to modifying my Hasto with the Seoul.

[EngrPaul]

Looking at your reference medium (72 lumen) and high (135 lumen) photos, your estimate of around 90 to 100 is very reasonable.

How is the general construction quality of the headlamp, for example would the plastic last battery changes?

It looks like a hell of a deal as this is the *only* Cree headlamp available anywhere in the world :-)

- Vikas

It seems very sturdy to me for a plastic headlamp. I guess many of them are plastic for light weight. There are no weak points succeptable to breakage that I can tell. I've messed with about a dozen of these, none have been defective and the battery cartridges work without a problem.

[BugLightGeek]

any chance of making the red LED's NOT blink?

[alphazeta]

That looks gorgeous. I also happen to have the same light(unmodded).

I have a quick question. Upon the clicking, the light I have does not switch between 1W & 3W modes. The light output is at 1w for both modes. Any suggestions on how I should proceed on fixing this? Perhaps the traces on the circuit are poorly done?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

(and of course after ordering a handful of cree stars for a fixed lighting project just this morning, I promptly put in an order for a seoul thanks to this thread)

[Minjin]

It seems very sturdy to me for a plastic headlamp. I guess many of them are plastic for light weight. There are no weak points succeptable to breakage that I can tell. I've messed with about a dozen of these, none have been defective and the battery cartridges work without a problem.

I was eyeing these up because they looked, from the pictures , to have an aluminum heatsink. Are you saying they are entirely plastic?

[EngrPaul]

Yes, there is a metal heat sink. I have not pulled the headlamp completely apart to access the driver circuitry.

[EngrPaul]

I have begun doing a relative brightness runtime using 1000 mAh Powerex NiMH cells. I will have 3W results soon, 1W results will probably be tomorrow.

I am logging measurements manually every 5 minutes using a solar cell, loaded with 490 ohm resistor, and DMM.

[EngrPaul]

[Bogie]

any chance of making the red LED's NOT blink?

Yea thats what im intrested in & keep finding Headlamps with blinking red's. I have a Ray-O-Vac 3in1 but want somthing better but really need steady red

[jar3ds]

how much does this mug weigh?

Also, I agree... the red LEDs need to be able to be constantly on... someday headlamp manufacturers will understand the importance of red light...

[EngrPaul]

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[EngrPaul]

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[ManBearPig]

I swapped out the Luxeon in my dorcy headlamp last night with a cree and the results were terrible. It looks like I need to order one of these and an SSC led on my next DX order. Thanks!

[IdiotsAbound]

I am wondering if it would be possible to modify the Hasto to take 1-AA battery by taking out the voltage converter from an Elly and transplanting it in the Hasto and modify the battery tube to fit a single AA cell?

Any opinions on that?

[FastSkiing]

Can someone tell me whehter Seoul Upgrade from DX will work ??? Is it the right one to get ????

Thanks in advance

[EngrPaul]

You can buy a HASTO and a Seoul U-Bin star and do it yourself. The ones at DX are fair, I prefer the ones from Photon Fanatic (but you have to buy $20 min).

The stars from DX use inexpensive thermal grease and are usually not seated right. And once I got some with backwards polarity.

I also recommend thermal compound for behind the star, I did my upgrades with Arctic Silver.