Last edited by IanT61; 03-14-2009 at 11:23 AM.
Light is the activity of what is transparent - Aristotle
Its a bit of a one way mode as the black plastic centering ring needed some surgery to take the P4 and the lens has to have a few millimeters taken off because of the shoulder on the P4 but it was worth it.
Can someone please explain it to me what is REGULATED stand for on the EOS, because a few days ago I play with my EOS and realized, that the output current continuously dropping with battery input voltage,...
So REGULATED could only mean that it has different brightness levels,Ö
It is regulated up to the point that the battery voltage falls below about 3.5 V. Then output falls continuously with input voltage. This link has runtime graphs and links to other runtime graphs:
I donít think that is true, because charts are showing RELATIVE LIGHT INTENSITY and not output current.
Newer the less, the naked eye can't see the difference for some time, but this is definitely NOT regulated output current driver.
I don't understand your point. I haven't seen how they set up the runtime testing, but I'm sure they are using some kind of instrumentation light meters to record light intensity in a light box, not the naked eye. If light intensity on the graph is staying horizontal for the first 180 to 200 minutes for NiMH and 5 hours+ for lithium, that is what they mean by regulation. The negative sloping part that starts after the horizontal part is not regulated because the batteries are no longer providing enough voltage.
A non-regulated light would not have a horizontal part in a runtime graph. For example:
This is what happens when the mod-bug bites and you don't have all the right parts...
I ended up modding my remaining Eos with a Cree Star:
Yeah, I know, my soldering today wasn't stellar...
Turns out I didn't have a suitable optic in my mod box for Cree emitters... OK, actually I do have Cree optics, but all were too tall to fit in the Eos, or if modded, there would've been a large gap around the reflector and the edges of the window.
I did have, however, some old TerraLux Luxeon reflectors for the minimag. In comes the sandpaper, and this is what I ended up with:
...with the added problem that the total optic length went from 13 to 11mm (left pic: normal stack height on the left vs. my Cree mod on the right). I grabbed one of those plastic washers that come with CD/DVD stacks and, using an exacto-knife, I cut a washer to size (right pic: washer on top of the Cree mod). A glo-ring worked OK, but it was hard to keep in place and neatly positioned around the reflector (a tad of glue might help, but... I didn't have any).
You can (kinda) see the washer here against the light's window (:
Because the reflector job didn't yield the most optimum results, the resulting beam is a little on the "interesting" side of things...
However, for outside use, or to get driver's attention while I ride my bike (primary goal here) it's acceptable.
OK, so there you go for 30 minutes of modding and not having the right components. Proves not all mods have to me done in a lathe and using a micrometer.
I recently modded a 4x level EOS (Rebel) to UV. I used DealExteme's 1 Watt 395-410nm LED and a 17mm IMS reflector. Very nice beam pattern, in my opinion, with bright spot and good spill. Can see very far with this setup. Would be ideal for night fishing, certain auto repairs and hands-free outdoors exploring for fluorescing minerals, insects, etc. My only concern is how well the stock plastic lens will hold up to the UV light.
Last edited by coors; 01-18-2010 at 01:53 PM. Reason: content accuracy and spelling corrections
Nice that EOS mods are still going strong
I made a heatsink from a 3/4" copper plumbing connector, easily found at Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Lowes etc for 50 cents. Take a pipe cutter or hacksaw and cut off 2 rings the same height then trim them into C-shaped clips. Cut a short strip of copper sheeting, bend it 90 degrees and use thermal epoxy to attach underneath the star. Apply thermal compound then simply clip into place, everything fits inside the tight EOS package neatly.
This light still has the glass feedback diode intact but I've never noticed it actually working. After running HI for 30 mins on freshly charged Eneloops the sink gets very warm transferring heat away from the LED, but without any air moving inside the EOS case the cooling ability is ultimately limited.
Overall I'm happy with the results and feel it's a worthwhile mod, not that it's the end of the world without a heatsink but at this price you really can't go wrong either
That's a great idea for the heatsink, and well executed.
I've done several of the P4 mods, and have always epoxied a penny (filed smooth) on the back side of the star. On some of them, I left the diode intact and on some the diode broke so I removed it. I've never noticed that it affected output either way. I'm not sure the drive levels of the EOS are high enough to warrant the use of the diode at all, especially when even a small heatsink is employed.
[QUOTE=tibim;1987750]The PT EOS is a reliable and durable headlamp with many great features. However there are a few areas where it can be improved upon, namely the optic and the LED.
The PT EOS produces a beam of light by channeling the output of the LED through an optic. This is adequate for most users, however the produced beam lacks sidespill. In the case of a headlamp sidespill is especially useful as it allows you to light up a larger area for close up work. By removing the optic in favor of a reflector we are able to produce a nice smooth beam with lots of sidespill while still retaining a good central hotspot.
The other item we can improve upon is the LED. The PT EOS comes with a Luxeon I LED which produces nice bright output, especially for a headlamp. However this LED is somewhat outdated and more recent LEDs can now produce twice the amount of lumens at the same current draw. This is quite an improvement.
By modifying these two things we are able to make a great headlamp even better. The modification is not difficult and the results are spectacular; well worth the effort put into it.
-Drill with small drill bit
-Soldering Iron & Solder
The first step is gaining access to the circuit board & LED assembly.
Using a screwdriver, loosen the screw on the back of the headlamp to gain access to the battery compartment. Remove the batteries.
You will now need to seperate the battery holder from the headlamp housing.
The battery holder is secured to the housing using two rivets, one on each side. These are visible once you have removed the batteries.
Using a drill with a small drill bit, drill into each rivet until you are able to pull the battery holder from the headlamp by using your fingers.
In the following picture I have drilled out the rivets and am seperating the battery holder from the headlamp:
After you have the battery holder removed, you will see that on the other side of it is mounted the circuit board and LED/optic assembly:
The optic and "optic holder" can be removed using only your hands to allow access to the LED:
The "star" that the LED is mounted on seems to be superglued to the PCB, but I was able to seperate it fairly easily by just pulling up on it with my fingers:
Now we have access to everything and can begin our modifications.
To remove the old LED you must de-solder the red and black wires from the + and - contacts on the star. You can also take the easy route and just cut the wires at the star.
Once the old star is detached, set it aside. It should still be a good and functional LED and you never know if you may use it on a project some day.
Now take your Seoul LED and solder the red(+) and black(+) wires to the contacts marked + and - respectively on the star. Pay special attention to the two notches on the bottom of the optic holder to assure that you are soldering the wires to the star in such a way that they will align with these notches when the optic holder is installed. If you do not do this correctly the wires will keep the optic holder from being able to be flush with the star.
Once you have finished it will look like this:
Now we are ready to begin installing our new reflector.
Basically the Fenix reflector will fit perfectly and securely into the stock optic holder with minimal changes. The first modification you need to make for the reflector to drop in is to file or dremel down the vertical ridges inside the optic holder. You will also want to remove the plastic that connects from side to side across the bottom of the optic holder. This will allow the new reflector will come down all the way on top of the LED and focus properly. I used a pair of scissors for this task. Pay special attention here and make sure it is not possible for your reflector to touch the solder blobs on the star, causing it to short. This will only be an issue if your solder blobs are too tall.
After you have the reflector inside the optic holder you are ready to secure everything together, but there is one more issue to address.
In stock form the PT EOS has a thermal sensor behind the star that detects when the LED is running too hot and cuts down the current to keep it from overheating. Once you install the Seoul star you are left with a gap between the star and the thermal sensor unless you replace the blob that is on the bottom of the original star.
Keep in mind the Seoul LED is more efficient and runs much cooler than the Luxeon III in the headlamp originally. I did not attempt to connect the star to the thermal sensor and I have run it for extended periods of time with no ill effects. It is quite possible that with this new cooler-running LED and relatively low current output of the EOS driver(~300ma on high) there is no additional heat management necessary.
However, it would definitely not cause any harm to use some sort of heat transfer material on the bottom of the new star thus connecting it to the thermal sensor in the same fashion as the stock star. I have also heard of people sanding down and gluing pennies to the back of the star to act as sort of a heatsink, which I would recommend as a simple way to help dissipate some excess heat.
Really a good share!
There's only 1 piece of copper attached underneath the star in that photo and I plan on adding more at 2 and 6 o'clock around the edges. I was surprised how hot the SSC P4 ran at 1 Watt, even with just 1 piece you could feel the heatsink getting hot to the touch after 30 mins on hi (the star was lifted up off the glass diode to eliminate any circuit feedback so the light was at max the entire time).
coors - I'm still using that metal reflector you sold me a while back and it's a really nice combination of spot and sidespill for bike helmet duty, maybe I'll get around to doing the external battery pack mod next...
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...d.php?t=209642 and would like to try these out with the EOS and this reflector. Earlier in this thread, one fellow used a Fenix reflector with the P4 and his images led me to believe that his reflector may even be better than the ones that "download" sold (the ones we have).
I had previously upgraded my EOS from the stock optic and SWOH Lux to a wider Carclo 15degree and the LED to a Lux3 SV1H for better tint and color while camping. I consider the 15 deg optic the perfect beam for my uses camping. It has a decent amount of throw and a wide, wiiide corona.
Taking the color aspect further a couple of weeks ago I dropped in an SSC High CRI SSR(I think) tint emitter with the same 15 degree optic. The beam is the same, but the color is now even better. Brightness is not a lot better, but I couldn't compare back to back. I can't wait to get a much more efficient XP-G (warm of course!) in there as the SSC high CRI is only S2 bin (60-70L/W).
Has anyone put a different driver in there? I don't think any normal CPF drivers will work with the switching. All normal (DX, Kai, Shoppe, Fenix, etc) drivers depend on off cycles to change modes, while the EOS uses a signal switch, not a power controlling on/off switch. I'd love to put a low-med-high driver in this.
I love the remote power stuff. I'll never do it, but I'd like to convert it to single or double AA or 14500.
I decided to pull the UV-LED back out and start with the heatsink experimentation. Not wanting to upset the heat-sensor, I cut this simple copper sink (filed penny, 1969) to lay parallel and about 1mm away from it and it's leads. I'm wondering if the EOS would still work if I removed the heat-sensor completely. Anybody know?
This is just the start, as I don't have any SSC U3SVN emitters yet and I'll probably be sweating one to a copper disk, then. After taking the above photo, I put a thin layer of Arctic Silver grease over the sink, pressed the SSC USWOH star onto it, then the holder.
Here's the shot with the Rebel-Optic/SSC P4 USWOH (f2.0_1/25th sec):
Here's the Rebel-optic and Cree XP-E R2 WG (f2.0 1/25th sec):
Here's the Cree XP-G R5 w/ Ledil RS Optic (f2.0 1/20th sec, but farther away)
Here's a shot with the "download" Seoul reflector/SSC P4 USWOH (f2.0_1/25th sec):
The heatsink shown will be modified further by silver-brazing upright sidewalls, like "mosport" has shown. Thanks again, mosport!
Last edited by coors; 03-09-2010 at 09:42 AM.
Thank you, very much! I'll have to redo my heatsink's base, then.
I'm looking to put some warm LED's in an EOS or two. Any suggestions for which ones work best, and where to find? Thanks!
Just kind of curious if anyone has tried modding one of these things with a XP-G?
Might need to make a new driver to drive them properly though. I wonder if it would be possible to stick in another circuit board on top of the stock one and somehow boost the current from the stock board to best drive other LED brands. Could use some thin copper clad and cut a circle in the middle so it fits overtop the LED.
Probably need a capacitor to store the required current. Not sure what effect it would have on battery life or fluctuations until the capacitor would be charged... Just thinking outloud really so if this is outlandish please disregard.
Last edited by DeNomad; 02-09-2010 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Thought about it a bit more
No need to change the driver (even if you could, it's not like you can drive an LED in the Eos very hard, since the light doesn't have an external heatsink).
Of course, you could just wait a couple of weeks for the 70-lumen Eos to be released, maybe it comes with the XP-G???
True that. I also emailed brightguy. He is expecting the EOS 70 lumen model in "about 7 days" so we are looking at Feb 17th.
I added a beamshot to my post, somewhere up this page, for the Rebel-optic/Cree XP-E R2 WG set. The optic that comes with the EOS-Rebel is deeper than the older Luxeon-optic and it's optimized for focus with the Rebel emitter. The die height of the Cree XP-E/XP-G if not exactly the same as the Rebel is very close, so focus is "perfect" and the modification is as easy as desoldering the Rebel and soldering the leads to the XP-E/XP-G. I still haven't ordered any XP-Gs on 20mm stars, yet, but I have every confidence that they will give amazing output with the stock Rebel-optic.
I have a spare Rebel LED and an older PT EOS, I cannot wait to try this. I think I might stick with the optic though and if it turns out too narrow then try a reflector.
I gotta go check my temperature, I think i caught the flashlight modding bug...
FOR SALE: Peak LED SR450A,
Another EOS mod, for an older 25-lumen EOS-Tactical. This one entails a cut down and ground to shape McR27 reflector and neutral K2-TFFC star. No chicken head movements to see things clearly with this bright, wide spill. At 1-meter/40" the hotspot measures 12" and the perfectly even luminosity of the spill reaches across 64", from this same distance. The shape of the spill is exactly the shape of the opening, where the filters are held. By opening the filter door fully, on it's hinge, vignetting disappears and you get the full circle of light from the reflector.
*Update* I removed the filter holder that blocks so much of the beam and retested. With the filter holder removed, the light @40"/1-meter from a wall produces a spill beam of 105". For comparison, a small handheld flashlight with the same emitter and an unmodified McR20 reflector @ 40"/1-meter produces a 48" wide spill beam. This is by far the most satisfying EOS mod that I've tried, to date.
Last edited by coors; 12-13-2011 at 04:34 PM.
has anyone done a XM-L yet?