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yclo
Flashaholic*
Very interesting, I hope the LS's that are on the way to me won't have this problem.
If they do however, I might be interested in this.
YC
If they do however, I might be interested in this.
YC
It looks like you have about .100" but boreing out the bottom and leaving a nub in the center is not trivial. With the battery out, how far down will the head screw? Make sure there aren't any further issues with the tube getting tube locked in the head or the shoulder hitting the raised section of the holder. In other words, confirm that the rest of the geometry will allow your modification to work as anticipated.
Good luck and bummer!
- Don
Good luck and bummer!
- Don
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The head will turn 3.5 turns totally with the battery out.
With the battery in...it turns 1.5
It looks like the HUMP in the bottom is perhaps larger than necesary.
I have been getting a fair amount of private email concerning this problem.
I perhaps did not make this clear.
I DEARLY LOVE THIS LIGHT.
I WILL NEVER RETURN THE HEAD....IT IS PERFECT.
THE LIGHT IS ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY WHITE..hint of violet...VERY PLEASING. I have had 4 LS white lights and this is by far the NICEST!
If I can make it work, I will be happy. This is beautiful little light. I will post how the mod goes.
KenBar,
You will triumph!!
Worse case, your machinist can bore the bottom flat. He can then drill and tap through the rear bulkhead and insert a short 1/4'x20 set screw. You can screw this in until it contacts the battery as needed. You could epoxy behind the set screw to fill in the cavity and make the light waterproof. You could also have the machinist put in a knobbed set screw and this would become your switch...........
You have a first class LED, driver and flashlight body. You are very close! You could always use a SF E1 to host the LS.....................
Don't return the Head; sounds like you got a keeper! If you want, I can get my Arc clickie 123 tail piece back and send it to you until a better solution arises.
- Don
You will triumph!!
Worse case, your machinist can bore the bottom flat. He can then drill and tap through the rear bulkhead and insert a short 1/4'x20 set screw. You can screw this in until it contacts the battery as needed. You could epoxy behind the set screw to fill in the cavity and make the light waterproof. You could also have the machinist put in a knobbed set screw and this would become your switch...........
You have a first class LED, driver and flashlight body. You are very close! You could always use a SF E1 to host the LS.....................
Don't return the Head; sounds like you got a keeper! If you want, I can get my Arc clickie 123 tail piece back and send it to you until a better solution arises.
- Don
cman light
Newly Enlightened
I jsut received my LS1 400mA with the green board and my LS1 just barley stayed screwed on, so if anyone dares to try this fix it worked quite well.
All you need is a dremel and a steady hand, I just used a small grinding bit and took about a sixteenth of an inch from the nub in the battery pack. After I got the desired amount of turns (about 2 1/2 turns to the light came on) I got a polishing bit and smoothed out the battery nub.
If your light is too easy to turn you can try switching o-rings from other battery packs, they seem to vary in thickness from the manufacturer.
All you need is a dremel and a steady hand, I just used a small grinding bit and took about a sixteenth of an inch from the nub in the battery pack. After I got the desired amount of turns (about 2 1/2 turns to the light came on) I got a polishing bit and smoothed out the battery nub.
If your light is too easy to turn you can try switching o-rings from other battery packs, they seem to vary in thickness from the manufacturer.
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