Soldering Jig for the Aged and Decrepit of Sight

PhotonFanatic

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When you've got a driver already installed in an cannister and you are only replacing the LED, there isn't much you can do to improve your lot--you just need good eyes, a steady hand, and good equipment.

But if you are making new modules, then everything is fair game and given my abilities, I prefer to make life as easy as possible for myself.

Hence the attempt at a soldering jig designed merely to help with the soldering of wires onto the LED prior to insertion into a converter module.

First, I wanted to be able to just press the soldering iron against the wire and apply solder when it is hot enough. I didn't want a third hand holding the wire, or the LED. After some thought, feeble though it may be, I decided that soldering the wire onto the leads while the LED was upside down would be easiest. Just needed a jig to pull it off. Lathe to the rescue! :D

First, I made two bores, one to clear the dome and the other to clear the black plastic encapsulation, yet shallow enough so that the leads would not contact the brass:

BoredHole.jpg



And this is with an LED in place--notice the slight clearance between the leads and the brass body:

LEDinPlace.jpg



Only problem with that is that the LED will lift up when one presses down on the wire on the lead. I had thought about using a rubber band to just hold the led down, and that's what the hole was for--slide a rod through and just loop the band over both ends as well as the LED. To be honest, that may work just fine, but I haven't tried it yet.

Instead, I wanted something that would not only hold the LED down, but also hold the wires in position. So I made a cap to fit over the base, with two holes drilled in the sides for the wires to enter:

Here is a shot with one wire in place:

WireinPlace.jpg




And here's anothe view of the wire entering the jig:

WireEntranceHole.jpg



Tomorrow I'll give it a try and see how it works. Note that in the true PhotonFanatic tradition of never, ever making anything right the first time, that the cap wasn't made perfectly. While doing the final bore to reach the milled cut-outs, I went too deep, mainly because with the piece spinning in the lathe, I couldn't see that I had already reached the right depth! Talk about poor eyesight. :)

Any comments, suggestions, etc., are welcome. There's always something to improve.
 

modamag

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Cool! :twothumbs

I really like the wire holder

May I recommend Aluminum instead of brass to make it harder for splash solder to stick.
 
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gadget_lover

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I like it. I think there is also room for the opposite design, where the wire holder is placed over a right side up LED that is affixed to a heat sink.

How do you plan to get the wires out of those holes without stressing the LED legs?

Daniel
 

Norm

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gadget_lover said:
How do you plan to get the wires out of those holes without stressing the LED legs?

Daniel
I think the cap comes off leaving the LED and wires free to be lifted out.
Norm
 

PhotonFanatic

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gadget_lover said:
I like it. I think there is also room for the opposite design, where the wire holder is placed over a right side up LED that is affixed to a heat sink.

How do you plan to get the wires out of those holes without stressing the LED legs?

Daniel

Daniel,

True, re the opposite design, just as long as you are always using the same size heatsink. With this design, you are working with fixed sizes of the LED dome and plastic base, so you don't have to worry abou the size(s) of the heatsink.

As for how to remove the wires, it helps to remember that most converters and their 'cans' are fairly short, or limited in height. For the module that I'm assembling, for instance, the entire length of wire needed is only 18mm. The wires are pulled into the brass cap when both wires have been soldered in place--there is enough flexibility in the wire to do that, especially the Teflon coated variety. The wire shown in my last photo was not cut to length, so it is way too long.

Norm,

Not quite re the wires, but you have given me food for thought. There's nothing saying that I couldn't mill a slot equal to the wire diameter. :D

Jonathan,

6061Al version on its way. Good point, although I never splash any solder around. Nope, not me.
 
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Robban

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Oh how I envy you guys who have the tools and skill to make your own equipment. Nicely done sir.
 

Icarus

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Great idea Fred! :twothumbs
but like Jonathan said why not use aluminum to prevent solder to stick. :whistle:
.
.
:oops: ... didn't see your answer to Jonathan's suggestion... :ohgeez:
 
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kenster

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For the aged and decrepit of sight?!? :rolleyes: I can`t even see your pictures so...... :nana: :laughing: Very cool Fred! :twothumbs Well, until it is Aluminum you only get one of those. :thumbsup: :whistle:

Also, I was making a drawing.:grin2: Should I Email it to you? :duck:

Ken
 
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bombelman

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nice, nice...
I used to do the wires on the converter first, then on the led...
This is a different aproach. I like the creativity... How about a universal
circuit board soldering jig.. :)
 

PhotonFanatic

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kenster said:
For the aged and decrepit of sight?!? :rolleyes: I can`t even see your pictures so...... :nana: :laughing: Very cool Fred! :twothumbs Well, until it is Aluminum you only get one of those. :thumbsup: :whistle:

Also, I was making a drawing.:grin2: Should I Email it to you? :duck:

Ken

No problem, Ken, just send me all your $$ and I'll send one to you. :whistle:

Sure, e-mail is fine for sending me stuff, even money. :D
 

kenster

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PhotonFanatic said:
No problem, Ken, just send me all your $$ and I'll send one to you. :whistle:

Sure, e-mail is fine for sending me stuff, even money. :D

You funny guy, eh? :rant: OK, I`ll send you an Email with a drawing I made of funny money. :nana:

Happy to send you a PayPal for one of these though! :rock:

Ken:grin2:

EDIT:

Quote: While doing the final bore to reach the milled cut-outs, I went too deep, I couldn't see that I had already reached the right depth!

They make these cool measuring devices so that doesn`t happen. :whistle: Even works for the aged & decrepit of sight I believe. ;) :crackup: :duck:
 
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PhotonFanatic

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Ken,

Yeah, I've got one of those fancy thingamajigs to measure the distance--problem was my eyes didn't believe what the DRO was showing, so I kept on going.:lolsign:

Well, I've decided to improve the soldering jig by making the top screw onto the base, That way one can control exactly the amount of pressure on the LED base. Why leave a simple thing simple--complicated is always more better, no? :D
 

chasm22

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Fred,

Is there any chance of a production run? I'd sure like one.

Chuck
 

PhotonFanatic

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chasm22 said:
Fred,

Is there any chance of a production run? I'd sure like one.

Chuck

Chuck,

Once I've 'perfected' it in-house, I'll make a small number for others.
Then if the feedback is good, perhaps a small run could be done, including anodizing them.
 

rcnuk

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I'd greatly appreciate one these jigs.:drool: Please count me in if you do decide to make a run.
Thanks!

PhotonFanatic said:
Chuck,

Once I've 'perfected' it in-house, I'll make a small number for others.
Then if the feedback is good, perhaps a small run could be done, including anodizing them.
 

pmath

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Very elegant! I made a similar one out of "perspex" it lets more light through which helps. I don't have a picture unfortunately, but will try. Mainly I was worried about scratching the surface of the emmitters.

Peter
 
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