The Savage Dorcy II (high output)

orionlion82

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
296
A bit about saftey:

now, if it wasnt obvious allready, this is far too hot a bulb for a plastic dollar store flashlight host.

A design like this is not intended to be run for more and a minuete or so, just for amusement's sake. it is a novelty and a lesson in a bright cheap flashlight.

I have only been brave enough to run it untill the plastic lens barely began to smoke, but if anyone chooses to make something like this, it must be understood that the power supply for this light is essentially unlimited, unlike a finite battery source.

this means that the potential for generating heat is allso for the most part unlimited, and the only safety aspect is literally the hands of the operator.

keep away from fools and children at all costs and unplug when not in use.


This one means business.

You don't want to meet it in a dark alley.

It will make your cree light cry like an inadequate 3 year old.
(my L2D has threatened me with divorce twice already)

It is a corded model, and combined with its accessories - the power source is now big, mean and flexible. No more puny AAA alkalines soldered together.

The cord is approximately 25 feet long, with an 18VDC power brick after about a 6 foot 120AC grounded cord. The power brick is massive- much bigger than an 18VDC one found on most laptops. My strippers tell me the DC cord is #16 and is probably a special safety cord of some sort.

why?

It was made to run a heater. Thats right, in its former life it powered an 18VDC HEATER - or more specifically an electric blanket.
It is so powerfull, it not only fried what was likely a PWM temperature controller (i spliced it out, it was on the DC side, about 8 feet from the end) and charred the associated molex connectors at the blanket connection, but it actually survived it completely intact. I knew I would have a use for it someday so i kept it.

what does this mean?

You can take your light, and plug it into a hundred foot orange cord if you want to.

No 120AC power? No Problem.
Add in a 100W cigar lighter inverter, and a cigar socket assembly with bare leads - and run it on 12 or 10 or even 15VDC!!!

...and since youre still making AC power, go ahead and slap a 100ft orange cord on the AC side The losses wont be that bad!

Will it be efficient?
Nope. Thats not the point.

will it melt after a few minuets use?
Probably.

could it burst into flames if improperly operated?
Seems possible.

Is it a buttery smooth flood with massive spill and an excelent transition into warm hotspot?
Wouldn't you like to know...

How did i did it?
Drilled a hole in the center of the tailcap.
fished the wire through the center of the spring.
Tied an underwriters knot about 8 inches down, pulled the slack back, and now ive got a spring-loaded strain relief.
The rest was just soldering.

I did use heat shrink this time.

Extended Details on the lamp:
Malibu ML20W16C 20W 12V
Lamp stamped BAB FLOOD 12V20W B115

And how did i fit the lamp originally?
Pulled out the reflector, bulb, and socket.
Superglued the lamp to the lens, and the lens to the bezel.

Later on in the day, I'll even do the multimedia thing so you can see for yourselves.

It's really not so savage anymore. Its now comperable to the 6'5" 280Lb doorman an a club, but in a cheap suit and worn out sneakers.
 
Last edited:

orionlion82

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 21, 2006
Messages
296
Bit of an update:

i am REALLY in love with a 12V MR-16 flood at 18V. (with some amps)

only thing is its melting the lens, bezel, and insulation off the wires.

so awesome, but SO DANGEROUS!

the lens has actually degraded to a textured one - great diffusion!
 
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