Long John
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hello
After some weaker light mods, today I'll present you a very bright light.
The Barbolight U-15
The light is developed as a very sturdy diving- and special-task light, like security-, police- and firefighter tasks.
Therefor it has some certificates and is dive-rated up to 200 meters.
The HAIII coating is perfect, without color-mismatches and the knurling of the body and tailcap is aggressive but excellent, works also with thick gloves.
The head is finned, beside the useful cooling-factor, the look is very nice.
It has a twisty-tailcap with momentary pushbutton, which works smooth and easy to activate.
It is easy to carry in a belt-holster or with a lanyard around the neck, the weight is 360gr incl. 2 rechargeables.
The light works with 2x18650 LiIon's or 3x CR123 primaries and spacer cell.
The light is DD (direct-drive) and works in stockform with 4x Edixeon-Led's. The reflectors looks like high quality McR20.
The Led's are connected 2x series x2 parallel.
The good and reliable is:
when one circuit (Led) will brake, the other 2 Led's will still work, so you will be not in the darkness.
In stock form, with the 4 x Edixeon's, the light was very bright.
Since I'm not a diver, I can't say anything about the usefulness about the different wave-lengths under water, but propably the tint of the Edixeon's will deliver its full potential there.
But my personal taste doesn't like the tint of these Led's, so I decided to swap the ermitters.
The build quality inside is the same excellent way like at the outside.:twothumbs
The Led's are sitting on a 1,5mm thick copper-heatsink and are connected to a PCB-board.
A very nice and reliable idea is the +contact from the batt. to the Led-connections. It's a stainless steel screw, sitting isolated by plastic-spacers, inside the head, coming from the direction of the batt.-tube.
A nut will come from the headside and connect the +pole with the PCB-board.
The 2 Led-circuits are protected by 2 resistors (2Watts).
Here is a picture of the parts (I forgot to show the board):
For a perfect focus with the SSC's which I implanted, I had to sand down the reflectors. It needs a while, but works perfect with 300grid sandpaper......and bladders at my fingers.
After installing all the parts inside the head, I fixed the nut with 2part-epoxy. This way I was and will be able, to unscrew the +contact-screw from the outside.With a bike spoke, I can push out the front window (5mm thick) after taking out 1 O-ring, through the hole for the screw.
The spoke will meet the window in the middle between the reflectors, so a small scratch (damage) of the window doesn't matter at this location. Since I had to do this often while this mod, I glued a GID-blob onto the window.
Due to the shortening of the reflectors, the right distance from the window to the reflectors was gone.
I thought a while about this problem.:thinking:
I got 2 ideas:
1. a second heatsink underneath the original one (about 0,7mm thickness). I prepared one, but I didn't liked the idea of a weaker thermal path.
2. fixing the reflectors at their perfect position.
I choosed idea 2.
I found at my stuff a 2part-knead-paste. Perfect for this fixing.
It is stabile up to 130 degrees and will not get in trouble by heat, because the contact is at the reflectors and the PCB-board, not at the heatsink.
Here the light for size-comparison, from the left:
2D-Magmod, U-15, LumaPower M1
Now to the performance:
The output is incredible.:rock:
I measured with fresh cells 1,1 amps.
The head of the light gets good warm, but not hot, and the Led-tint is stabile.
The heat transfer works excellent, like the whole light.
The beam is perfect, like all multiple Led-beams. A bright hotspot with a smooth transition into the side-spill, very bright too.
Without any artefacts and a very white tint, without tendency's in any direction.
Compared to my bright Trilux-Magmod, this light is playing in another league. HID-lights up to 14watts are no rivals and the U-15 will be able to compete into the mid-class HID's.
Some outdoor beamshoots:
LumaPower M1 on high, distance to the door is 20m:
Trilux-Magmod on high, same settings and distance:
U-15, same settings and distance:
More afar, distance to the frontwall at the house: 70m
LP M1 on high:
Trilux-Mag:
U-15:
The runtime with fresh LiIons will be about 1 1/2 hour with max. output followed by several hours degrading output.
Due to the reliable construction, there is no reverse polarity protection, so be careful by loading the cells.
I can highly recommend this light. It is the sturdiest light I've ever seen, with a perfect building quality and first class parts.
It is unbreakable by normal use and will reliable work in any rough conditions.
Due to the single stage, very bright output, it can be useful to compain a second light, less bright, depending on the tasks.
It is not cheap, but every cent worth.:thumbsup:
Best regards
_____
Tom:wave:
After some weaker light mods, today I'll present you a very bright light.
The Barbolight U-15
The light is developed as a very sturdy diving- and special-task light, like security-, police- and firefighter tasks.
Therefor it has some certificates and is dive-rated up to 200 meters.
The HAIII coating is perfect, without color-mismatches and the knurling of the body and tailcap is aggressive but excellent, works also with thick gloves.
The head is finned, beside the useful cooling-factor, the look is very nice.
It has a twisty-tailcap with momentary pushbutton, which works smooth and easy to activate.
It is easy to carry in a belt-holster or with a lanyard around the neck, the weight is 360gr incl. 2 rechargeables.
The light works with 2x18650 LiIon's or 3x CR123 primaries and spacer cell.
The light is DD (direct-drive) and works in stockform with 4x Edixeon-Led's. The reflectors looks like high quality McR20.
The Led's are connected 2x series x2 parallel.
The good and reliable is:
when one circuit (Led) will brake, the other 2 Led's will still work, so you will be not in the darkness.
In stock form, with the 4 x Edixeon's, the light was very bright.
Since I'm not a diver, I can't say anything about the usefulness about the different wave-lengths under water, but propably the tint of the Edixeon's will deliver its full potential there.
But my personal taste doesn't like the tint of these Led's, so I decided to swap the ermitters.
The build quality inside is the same excellent way like at the outside.:twothumbs
The Led's are sitting on a 1,5mm thick copper-heatsink and are connected to a PCB-board.
A very nice and reliable idea is the +contact from the batt. to the Led-connections. It's a stainless steel screw, sitting isolated by plastic-spacers, inside the head, coming from the direction of the batt.-tube.
A nut will come from the headside and connect the +pole with the PCB-board.
The 2 Led-circuits are protected by 2 resistors (2Watts).
Here is a picture of the parts (I forgot to show the board):
For a perfect focus with the SSC's which I implanted, I had to sand down the reflectors. It needs a while, but works perfect with 300grid sandpaper......and bladders at my fingers.
After installing all the parts inside the head, I fixed the nut with 2part-epoxy. This way I was and will be able, to unscrew the +contact-screw from the outside.With a bike spoke, I can push out the front window (5mm thick) after taking out 1 O-ring, through the hole for the screw.
The spoke will meet the window in the middle between the reflectors, so a small scratch (damage) of the window doesn't matter at this location. Since I had to do this often while this mod, I glued a GID-blob onto the window.
Due to the shortening of the reflectors, the right distance from the window to the reflectors was gone.
I thought a while about this problem.:thinking:
I got 2 ideas:
1. a second heatsink underneath the original one (about 0,7mm thickness). I prepared one, but I didn't liked the idea of a weaker thermal path.
2. fixing the reflectors at their perfect position.
I choosed idea 2.
I found at my stuff a 2part-knead-paste. Perfect for this fixing.
It is stabile up to 130 degrees and will not get in trouble by heat, because the contact is at the reflectors and the PCB-board, not at the heatsink.
Here the light for size-comparison, from the left:
2D-Magmod, U-15, LumaPower M1
Now to the performance:
The output is incredible.:rock:
I measured with fresh cells 1,1 amps.
The head of the light gets good warm, but not hot, and the Led-tint is stabile.
The heat transfer works excellent, like the whole light.
The beam is perfect, like all multiple Led-beams. A bright hotspot with a smooth transition into the side-spill, very bright too.
Without any artefacts and a very white tint, without tendency's in any direction.
Compared to my bright Trilux-Magmod, this light is playing in another league. HID-lights up to 14watts are no rivals and the U-15 will be able to compete into the mid-class HID's.
Some outdoor beamshoots:
LumaPower M1 on high, distance to the door is 20m:
Trilux-Magmod on high, same settings and distance:
U-15, same settings and distance:
More afar, distance to the frontwall at the house: 70m
LP M1 on high:
Trilux-Mag:
U-15:
The runtime with fresh LiIons will be about 1 1/2 hour with max. output followed by several hours degrading output.
Due to the reliable construction, there is no reverse polarity protection, so be careful by loading the cells.
I can highly recommend this light. It is the sturdiest light I've ever seen, with a perfect building quality and first class parts.
It is unbreakable by normal use and will reliable work in any rough conditions.
Due to the single stage, very bright output, it can be useful to compain a second light, less bright, depending on the tasks.
It is not cheap, but every cent worth.:thumbsup:
Best regards
_____
Tom:wave:
... :thumbsup:
