MM L1P 3W Better Mod Possibilities?

BobbyRS

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Dec 21, 2005
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I have an old L1P that I had MillerMod add his L1P circuit and a LuxIII led to a couple of years ago. It has been an outstanding light and I don't want to get rid of it to make room for something new. Instead I am looking for a great mod for this to help keep up with the emerging led lights.

One possible solution i have been thinkging about is the new 4-mode driver from RV7 (here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166132&highlight=L1P) and adding a U-bin Seoul P4 to it from DX (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2026).

Does this look like a much better way to go or does anyone have any other possibilities?

How about the new Rebel 3w or KLC8 like the ones from DX (here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4622 and http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4282)?

Thanks!
 

datiLED

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I have an old L1P that I had MillerMod add his L1P circuit and a LuxIII led to a couple of years ago. It has been an outstanding light and I don't want to get rid of it to make room for something new. Instead I am looking for a great mod for this to help keep up with the emerging led lights.

One possible solution i have been thinkging about is the new 4-mode driver from RV7 (here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166132&highlight=L1P) and adding a U-bin Seoul P4 to it from DX (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2026).

Does this look like a much better way to go or does anyone have any other possibilities?

How about the new Rebel 3w or KLC8 like the ones from DX (here: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4622 and http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4282)?

Thanks!

If you like the light, and want to get the most bang for your buck, use a Seoul US*OH from PhotonFanatic. You can choose from VO (warm white), WO (neutral white) or XO (ultra white, occasionally leaning toward cool). If the driver has been upgraded to perform with the Lux III, then the Seoul will really impress you.

The DX Seoul LED is fine, but the PhotonFanatic LED's have a lower Vf (forward voltage) and will generate slightly more lumens at a given current. I also like the fact that I can get them in two, or three days. They are also packed incredibly well, so I know that I will never have to try to get a replacement for an LED that has been damaged in transit.

When I get a chance to complete the P1 Seoul upgrade tutorial, it will be very similar to your L1P. You can simply follow along, as the lights will require the same reflector modification and a small copper shim under the LED for a good focus.

datiLED
 

BobbyRS

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Dec 21, 2005
Messages
267
If you like the light, and want to get the most bang for your buck, use a Seoul US*OH from PhotonFanatic. You can choose from VO (warm white), WO (neutral white) or XO (ultra white, occasionally leaning toward cool). If the driver has been upgraded to perform with the Lux III, then the Seoul will really impress you.

The DX Seoul LED is fine, but the PhotonFanatic LED's have a lower Vf (forward voltage) and will generate slightly more lumens at a given current. I also like the fact that I can get them in two, or three days. They are also packed incredibly well, so I know that I will never have to try to get a replacement for an LED that has been damaged in transit.

When I get a chance to complete the P1 Seoul upgrade tutorial, it will be very similar to your L1P. You can simply follow along, as the lights will require the same reflector modification and a small copper shim under the LED for a good focus.

datiLED

Great. Thanks! I like the WO tint best. The MM ciruit I have, with a Lith-Ion, drives the lux with a current of around 1.2 amps, so I can't wait to see the difference!

Thanks for doing the tutorial. I look forward to it! All I should have to do it replace the emitter correct? Well, and add the copper shim. I thought the Seoul emitter was supposed to work well with the stock reflector.
 

datiLED

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Location
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Great. Thanks! I like the WO tint best. The MM ciruit I have, with a Lith-Ion, drives the lux with a current of around 1.2 amps, so I can't wait to see the difference!

Thanks for doing the tutorial. I look forward to it! All I should have to do it replace the emitter correct? Well, and add the copper shim. I thought the Seoul emitter was supposed to work well with the stock reflector.

The stock reflector needs to have 0.030" lathed from the back to allow the Seoul to sit higher for proper focus.

In this picture, you can see that both reflectors are completely yellow from the reflection of the phosphor on the LED die. That is a good indication of having the LED "focused".

Picture015.jpg


The light on the right is a Fenix P1, while the light on the left is a Jil 1.3W UP.
 

BobbyRS

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Messages
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The stock reflector needs to have 0.030" lathed from the back to allow the Seoul to sit higher for proper focus.

In this picture, you can see that both reflectors are completely yellow from the reflection of the phosphor on the LED die. That is a good indication of having the LED "focused".

The light on the right is a Fenix P1, while the light on the left is a Jil 1.3W UP.

I am in no way questioning your modding ability here, but how big is the copper shim? Couldn't not adding the shim keep from having to lathe the reflector? I am assuming that the copper shim is for better heat control, but I really have no clue, which is why I am asking:).
 

datiLED

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The shim is 0.030" thick. It is used to account for the fact that the Seoul LED die sits 0.030" lower than the die height of a Luxeon LED. It is held in place by Arctic Alumina adhesive. AA is non conductive, which protects the Seoul from being shorted to ground.

The reflector is focused to a Luxeon LED. We need to modify the height of the Seoul and it's position in the reflector to have the same beam characteristics as the original Luxeon. That is the reason for removing the material from the back of the reflector.
 

BobbyRS

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Dec 21, 2005
Messages
267
The shim is 0.030" thick. It is used to account for the fact that the Seoul LED die sits 0.030" lower than the die height of a Luxeon LED. It is held in place by Arctic Alumina adhesive. AA is non conductive, which protects the Seoul from being shorted to ground.

The reflector is focused to a Luxeon LED. We need to modify the height of the Seoul and it's position in the reflector to have the same beam characteristics as the original Luxeon. That is the reason for removing the material from the back of the reflector.

Oh, ok. So the bottom of the emitter (slug) is conductive. I did notice that there is a small lip on the bottom of the reflector so it doesn't look too hard to do. Would you happen to know of any replacement reflectors (preferably OP) that fit into the L1P that will already work for this or any replacement reflectors at all?

Oh yeah, sorry to bug you with anohter question, but do you know of any replacement lenses? I seem to have some type of buildup or scratches on mine. Not sure what the size is. Thanks!
 

datiLED

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Messages
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Oh, ok. So the bottom of the emitter (slug) is conductive. I did notice that there is a small lip on the bottom of the reflector so it doesn't look too hard to do. Would you happen to know of any replacement reflectors (preferably OP) that fit into the L1P that will already work for this or any replacement reflectors at all?
Do not mess with the lip at the base of the reflector! You need to remove the material near the opening only. That is why it must be done on a lathe. That lip needs to stay in place.

The Seoul does not need an OP reflector to give you a nice smooth beam. That is one of the reasons that I like it so much for mods.

Oh yeah, sorry to bug you with anohter question, but do you know of any replacement lenses? I seem to have some type of buildup or scratches on mine. Not sure what the size is. Thanks!
The Fenix lenses have an anti reflective coating, so finding an exact replacement might be difficult. As far as mineral glass lenses go, try e-Bay in the watch parts section.
 

BobbyRS

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Dec 21, 2005
Messages
267
Do not mess with the lip at the base of the reflector! You need to remove the material near the opening only. That is why it must be done on a lathe. That lip needs to stay in place.

I hear ya. Sorry about that. :ohgeez:

The Seoul does not need an OP reflector to give you a nice smooth beam. That is one of the reasons that I like it so much for mods.

Ok, good to know.

The Fenix lenses have an anti reflective coating, so finding an exact replacement might be difficult. As far as mineral glass lenses go, try e-Bay in the watch parts section.

Yeah. Do you know the size of the lens?
 
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