Your LED flashlight dream . . .

techwg

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May 4, 2007
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United Kingdom
Ok, im curious. If you could have an LED light, either 1 cr123 or 2 cr123, what would you want it to do?

This would make a perfect light for me:

Large Lumens.. (fenix)
Large Runtimes (fenix)
Focus head from tight penetrating power beam to wide flood (mag)
totally waterproof (fenix rebel)
Crush proof (inova)
different brightness modes (fenix)
and to be generally sturdy and drop proof, and have thick type-III anodizing.


Whats your perfect flashlight got to do?:candle:
 

Hodsta

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Jun 14, 2007
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Sounds like a McG LunaSol but with Ti instead of HAIII.
 

meuge

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Jul 13, 2007
Messages
613
I deliberately chose fairly realistic specs...

Case:
1xAA/14500, Fenix P2D thickness, knurling.
Titanium Housing, matte carbide finish (at least 3mm thick)
Waterproof to 10m
Glass lens

LED:
Whatever manufacturer... 200lm/1A

Beam:
Fenix LxD line is perfect - intense hotspot + much less intense, but wide spill

Regulation: Fully regulated as described below

UI:
Twist + click, AKA Fenix, but 3 twist points
Closed -> Turbo (200) + Strobe (200, 10Hz)
Slightly twisted -> Very Low (1.5) -> Low (10) -> Medium (40) -> High (100)
Fully Twisted -> SOS Low (40) -> SOS High (200)

+ Memory function!
 

fluke

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May 20, 2007
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476
Location
London UK
LODCE size.
L0P Single mode.
P3DCE Rebel 100 output.
L2DCE on Lithium primaries runtime.

Sorted :drool::drool:
 

xiaowenzu

Banned
Joined
Sep 9, 2006
Messages
637
and to be generally sturdy and drop proof, and have thick type-III anodizing.

Then you'd probably want a Surefire or Novatac. They're the toughest light in the industry, designed for military uses... and fully water proof unlike most other lights. My dream light would be SF L1 CREE (amazing design and shape, I love the chiselled look) with E2L runtimes - CRAZY Regulation, it can run for more than 9 hrs on Max! I don't really like Fenix lights because they're all reverse clickies, as with other Chinese lights too. :eek:

Oh and something adjustable similar to my Surefire U2 - that would be the ultimate variable interface... so easy, so clean design. I'd welcome that.

And brightness, I'd want it to be brighter than the Polarian Helix 3000 Lumen HID! hehe, I can dream can't we?:nana:
 

techwg

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May 4, 2007
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I have a Surefire G2 with both lamp assembalies. I dont like the size and incan's are not for me. im not buying bulbs for a light. Its bad enough we need to buy batteries. Thats why i like fenix LED lights, powerful and small. and long runtimes. If SF make a really good led one, it will probably be way way expencive for me and be larger than i want.
 

WildChild

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Apr 26, 2005
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Québec, Canada
I have a Surefire G2 with both lamp assembalies. I dont like the size and incan's are not for me. im not buying bulbs for a light. Its bad enough we need to buy batteries. Thats why i like fenix LED lights, powerful and small. and long runtimes. If SF make a really good led one, it will probably be way way expencive for me and be larger than i want.

E2L is what you need! ;) 9h flat runtime + diminishing, 45 lumens is bright enough for many uses, throws like the L2D-CE on Turbo (to my naked eye) but spill is a lot dimmer, spill is very useful for close range. And leave a PM to user OpticsHQ, you will get a good price.
 

Gryffin

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Feb 16, 2005
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Ohio
Ok, im curious. If you could have an LED light, either 1 cr123 or 2 cr123, what would you want it to do?

What you state is actually pretty close to my idea of a perfect "do it all" general purpose light.

There are good reasons for every form-factor out there, from Photon-style keychain lights to HID lights that require a shoulder strap; but for a "do it all" light, the 2xCR123A / 18650 size is a good choice. (I know you specified 1xCR123A / 2xCR123A, but the size difference between 2xCR123A and 18650 is negligible, and the the latter has a real advantage in flexibility and runtime.)

It'll fit in a jacket pocket, or pants pocket in a pinch, or be unobtrusive on a belt; yet is capable of good runtime (decent size batteries), good throw (generous reflector), and good ergonomics (hand-filling size).

Variable output is a must; more specifically, a wide enough range of output to handle situations from arms-length at night without ruining night vision, to throwing illumination 100m into the woods. The usual two-levels (with a resistor wasting energy on low) won't cut it; fully-regulated, controlled-current, multi-level drivers have made it to the *** market (thanks, Fenix!), so the technology is there; there's no reason to settle for a single, or even dual, output level.

Speaking of throw, focusability would be a great feature. I have a few lights with ungodly throw, but the spot is so small that it's of very limited usefulness in the Real World. Sometimes you need to fill up a room, not project a tiny-but-bright spot.

All the manufacturers seem to be striving for the "perfect UI"; it's difficult to balance flexibility with user simplicity. But the most obvious need is one of the most neglected these days: momentary-on! It boggles my mind how few lights out there have a decent forward-clicky switch. Of course, a forward-clicky doesn't work easily with complex UIs, either...

As far as materials, titanium is exotic, strong and luxurious; but aluminum is still ideal for heat dissipation and light weight, and with a good HA-III finish, can still be tough and attractive.

The closest I've found yet to my ideal is the Dereelight CL-1H v2.0. The size is right, the ergonomics are good, the finish is excellence; the newest version sports a Cree Q5 emitter with three regulated output levels (about 1A current on High, for impressive performance), with a forward clicky; however, they gave up the focusing feature from the original 1.0 version, which I dearly miss. The original used a twistable ring near the head, SureFire U2-style to change levels, but only two levels.

So my dream light wold be something like a love-child of a Dereelight CL-1h and a SF U2: the momentary-on forward-clicky and superior output of the CL-1H v2, a couple more output level options like the U2, the U2's separate output level selector, the focusability of the CL-1H v1, the solid construction and HA-III finish of both.

Really, is that too much to ask for??
 

Flying Turtle

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Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Messages
6,509
Location
Apex, NC
I deliberately chose fairly realistic specs...

Case:
1xAA/14500, Fenix P2D thickness, knurling.
Titanium Housing, matte carbide finish (at least 3mm thick)
Waterproof to 10m
Glass lens

LED:
Whatever manufacturer... 200lm/1A

Beam:
Fenix LxD line is perfect - intense hotspot + much less intense, but wide spill

Regulation: Fully regulated as described below

UI:
Twist + click, AKA Fenix, but 3 twist points
Closed -> Turbo (200) + Strobe (200, 10Hz)
Slightly twisted -> Very Low (1.5) -> Low (10) -> Medium (40) -> High (100)
Fully Twisted -> SOS Low (40) -> SOS High (200)

+ Memory function!

Perfect specs. The only thing I might change, since I'm dreaming, is to make it AAA size and have it run at least an hour on high.

Geoff
 

adirondackdestroyer

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
2,018
My realistic dream light would be a Fenix P2D that has a mode selectable head like a U2 and it would have 4 modes (low,medium,high,turbo ) and a forward clickie. It would have a Q5 or better Cree and have perfect regulation on all modes.
2.5 lumens on low, 25 on medium, 75 on high, and 150-175 on Turbo.

Hard to beat this one.
 

aceo07

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Joined
Jun 24, 2005
Messages
554
Location
East Coast
Ok, im curious. If you could have an LED light, either 1 cr123 or 2 cr123, what would you want it to do?

This would make a perfect light for me:

Large Lumens.. (fenix)
Large Runtimes (fenix)
Focus head from tight penetrating power beam to wide flood (mag)
totally waterproof (fenix rebel)
Crush proof (inova)
different brightness modes (fenix)
and to be generally sturdy and drop proof, and have thick type-III anodizing.

Whats your perfect flashlight got to do?:candle:

With the exception of the focus head, your requirements are met very well by the HDS EDC.
 

datiLED

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May 9, 2006
Messages
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Location
Atlanta, GA
Think Fenix P1 that has been shrunk down to a CR2 size light. It could handle from 1.8V to 4.2V, have a Luxeon Rebel LED, a smooth reflector for maximum throw and decent spill, and have two or three levels of brightness. Low to high.

In other words, the perfect keychain light.
 

THE_dAY

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Nov 28, 2003
Messages
1,820
Location
sfv, california
my perfect flashlight would be an edc keychain light.

to keep it realistic, it would be a MillerMod's Arc aaa with cree xr-e R4...
 

knot

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Apr 5, 2007
Messages
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Location
SW Washington
A regulated 2x123 or 1x18650, 5 mode (low, med, high, strobe, SOS - with last memory), forward (momentary) clicker, SSC LED emitter, with a focusing 7438 Coast Lenser head and HA III anodizing would be the ultimate but then so would a Gatlight V3.
 
Last edited:

MattK

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Joined
Dec 30, 2004
Messages
3,027
Location
Connecticut Shoreline
I deliberately chose fairly realistic specs...

Case:
1xAA/14500, Fenix P2D thickness, knurling.
Titanium Housing, matte carbide finish (at least 3mm thick)
Waterproof to 10m
Glass lens

LED:
Whatever manufacturer... 200lm/1A

Beam:
Fenix LxD line is perfect - intense hotspot + much less intense, but wide spill

Regulation: Fully regulated as described below

UI:
Twist + click, AKA Fenix, but 3 twist points
Closed -> Turbo (200) + Strobe (200, 10Hz)
Slightly twisted -> Very Low (1.5) -> Low (10) -> Medium (40) -> High (100)
Fully Twisted -> SOS Low (40) -> SOS High (200)

+ Memory function!

A 1A light with Fenix P2D size/thickness built of titanium would cook your hand. Titanium has terrible thermal conductivity and a light that small, even made of a highly conductive material like copper would get BLAZING hot. Another issue is batteries; alkaline batteries cannot being to deliver that kind of current efficiently. leaving NiMh and Li-Ion as the only cells able to deliver the current required for ~3.5V @1A and even a great NiMh cell will be gasping for breath after like 10 minutes I'd estimate - you might get 15 out of a Li-Ion.

So, the light would be blazing hot, have a miniscule runtime and good regulation would be near to impossible given the voltage sag the batteries would see at those drain rates.

Sorry to burst the bubble. :/
 
Last edited:

meuge

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
613
A 1A light with Fenix P2D size/thickness built of titanium would cook your hand. Titanium has terrible thermal conductivity and a light that small, even made of a highly conductive material like copper would get BLAZING hot.
P2D doesn't seem to get that hot, running at >1A, as long as it's held in hand, so what's the problem?

As for Titanium being thermally inefficient, you got me there - I was merely trying to imagine something that would be both light and very strong. I suppose it would work to have a Titanium frame for strength, but construct the majority of the light from Aluminium.
Another issue is batteries; alkaline batteries cannot being to deliver that kind of current efficiently. leaving NiMh and Li-Ion as the only cells able to deliver the current required for ~3.5V @1A and even a great NiMh cell will be gasping for breath after like 10 minutes I'd estimate - you might get 15 out of a Li-Ion.
I meant AA as a size, not necessarily implying alkaline. It would be interesting to see if as the technology develops if ultracaps could be used instead of batteries, permitting nearly any drain rate.
 
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