2000xlt
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Who has done a solar power conversion or assisted with such.. what did it cost?? and what specifically does the solar pannels power?
Just curious...
Just curious...
solar power
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Pretty wide open question... I am going to assume you mean powering a home using solar panels?
Ok... Basically, if you want to use solar PV panels for your home, make sure you have conserved every watt of electricity you can first. That may include new Energy Star rated appliances (fridge, washer, drier, furnace, etc.). It may also include insulation, new double pane windows, skylights, CFL lights, etc.
If you have Air Conditioning, you may want to look for a "ground source" heat pump type (drill and/or bury pipe in the ground instead of using above ground heat exchangers--much more efficient)...
Also, monitor your electric bill, and purchase a "Kill-A-Watt" meter... Basically a 120 VAC volt/amp/power meter that you can use to monitor a single electric appliance (light a fridge, TV, stereo, freezer, etc.) to see what is consuming the most power in your home, how much you use, etc.
Now, we can talk Solar PV systems. First, you need a sunny location with no shadows from 9am to 3pm (at least). If you don't have that amount of sun, it may not really be cost effective to install solar PV panels (although, people still do it). Also, it depends on where you live and your local weather conditions on how much power will be generated over time (fog/clouds, kills a system; cold, clear weather, helps).
There are two basic types, one where the solar panels, through a charge controller, charges a bank of batteries. You either use the DC voltage (12, 24, or 48 vdc are the most common) directly for your needs, or you use a DC to AC inverter to create 120/240 VAC at 60 Hz (220 VAC at 50 Hz also available).
This first type is known as the "off grid" type installation. Meaning that if you are in a little cabin in the middle of no-where, or if you want to have power when the main AC lines are down, this is the system you would build.
The second type is known as the "grid tied" system... Basically, the solar panels connect to a special AC to DC inverter that then wires into your normal house wiring--and with enough solar panels, can actually turn your meter backwards.
This second type will not run if the power is out, but is the cheapest and most efficient method of creating 120/240 VAC power for most people.
You cannot tell a Grid Tied system is even running--all your appliances get the power from the main AC lines from your utility, just like normal. But when the sun is shining, the Grid Tied Inverter puts power back into your house wiring and, if there is enough power, actually back out through your meter and even will provide power to your neighbors.
Many (certainly not most) public utilities in the US will offer "net metering" options for solar (and wind) connected homes and businesses. Basically, for my utility, I pay them at the end of the month a minimum service charge (about $5.00) and if I use more power, I pay that amount. If generate more power than I use, I get a credit that goes "in the bank". I can draw or place money in the "bank" during the whole year (I can also go "negative" balance too). I either pay the bank balance (if negative) every month, or I can wait until the end of the one year and pay the negative balance. If, on the other hand, I have enough solar panels I can actually run positive balance too--and at the end of the year, if it is zero or positive, I don't own any extra money to the utility (other than the $5 monthly service charge).
So, you have to 1. find out if your utility allows connecting solar panels using the Grid Tied system; 2. see if they support monthly or yearly net metering; 3. check with your local building/planning department if they will allow solar panels; 4. check if there are rebates available (usually only for grid tied solar, not off-grid systems).
Now, how much does it cost? Well, a grid tied system will cost you about $10 per installed watt (peak power). $5.00 per watt is for the solar panels, and about $2.50 per watt for the grid tied inverter, and $2.50 per watt for installation (really rough numbers).
In California, there is a $2.50 per watt rebate--but it is getting harder to receive the money from the state (new program with significant paper work issues). And up to a $2,000 Federal Tax Credit. (again, rough values, and terms/conditions change all of the time--different from when I did mine 2 years ago).
My system is a 3kW peak CA PTC rated system (3,500 watts of solar panels). Generates around 400 kWhrs/month (summer more, winter less). I am in a relatively sunny area even though I am pretty close to the ocean (protected by coastal hills near SF California). Weather and location do matter.
My price per kW/hr--after rebates, very roughly $0.14 to $0.17 per kWhr (I have "time of use" metering and it runs from $0.09 to $0.30 per kWhr depending on time of day and season--average price is about $0.12 per kWhr at my usage level--basic tier, if I use more that 300 kWhrs/month, it will cost more).
Before rebates, around $0.25/kWhr (assuming everything lasts about 20-25 years).
If you are going off grid, because you need to purchase batteries (and replacement batteries every 5-10 years or so) and you would probably need a generator (fuel costs)--you are probably talking about $1.00 per kWhr (very rough guess) for your cabin power.
If you have high natural gas, propane, or other fuel bills (hot water, home heating, swimming pool, etc.), you might wish to consider installing a solar hot water (or hot air) system instead. The prices for these are about 1/4 the parts and installation costs (vs Solar PV electric), and the panels take up only 1/4 the roof space too (for the same "kWhr/Btu" heating vs solar electric). In the end, if you are conserving fuel or electricity--it is still money in your pocket (and conservation of resources).
There are a lot of details that I really just jumped over--but does this sort of answer your question?
-Bill
Ok... Basically, if you want to use solar PV panels for your home, make sure you have conserved every watt of electricity you can first. That may include new Energy Star rated appliances (fridge, washer, drier, furnace, etc.). It may also include insulation, new double pane windows, skylights, CFL lights, etc.
If you have Air Conditioning, you may want to look for a "ground source" heat pump type (drill and/or bury pipe in the ground instead of using above ground heat exchangers--much more efficient)...
Also, monitor your electric bill, and purchase a "Kill-A-Watt" meter... Basically a 120 VAC volt/amp/power meter that you can use to monitor a single electric appliance (light a fridge, TV, stereo, freezer, etc.) to see what is consuming the most power in your home, how much you use, etc.
Now, we can talk Solar PV systems. First, you need a sunny location with no shadows from 9am to 3pm (at least). If you don't have that amount of sun, it may not really be cost effective to install solar PV panels (although, people still do it). Also, it depends on where you live and your local weather conditions on how much power will be generated over time (fog/clouds, kills a system; cold, clear weather, helps).
There are two basic types, one where the solar panels, through a charge controller, charges a bank of batteries. You either use the DC voltage (12, 24, or 48 vdc are the most common) directly for your needs, or you use a DC to AC inverter to create 120/240 VAC at 60 Hz (220 VAC at 50 Hz also available).
This first type is known as the "off grid" type installation. Meaning that if you are in a little cabin in the middle of no-where, or if you want to have power when the main AC lines are down, this is the system you would build.
The second type is known as the "grid tied" system... Basically, the solar panels connect to a special AC to DC inverter that then wires into your normal house wiring--and with enough solar panels, can actually turn your meter backwards.
This second type will not run if the power is out, but is the cheapest and most efficient method of creating 120/240 VAC power for most people.
You cannot tell a Grid Tied system is even running--all your appliances get the power from the main AC lines from your utility, just like normal. But when the sun is shining, the Grid Tied Inverter puts power back into your house wiring and, if there is enough power, actually back out through your meter and even will provide power to your neighbors.
Many (certainly not most) public utilities in the US will offer "net metering" options for solar (and wind) connected homes and businesses. Basically, for my utility, I pay them at the end of the month a minimum service charge (about $5.00) and if I use more power, I pay that amount. If generate more power than I use, I get a credit that goes "in the bank". I can draw or place money in the "bank" during the whole year (I can also go "negative" balance too). I either pay the bank balance (if negative) every month, or I can wait until the end of the one year and pay the negative balance. If, on the other hand, I have enough solar panels I can actually run positive balance too--and at the end of the year, if it is zero or positive, I don't own any extra money to the utility (other than the $5 monthly service charge).
So, you have to 1. find out if your utility allows connecting solar panels using the Grid Tied system; 2. see if they support monthly or yearly net metering; 3. check with your local building/planning department if they will allow solar panels; 4. check if there are rebates available (usually only for grid tied solar, not off-grid systems).
Now, how much does it cost? Well, a grid tied system will cost you about $10 per installed watt (peak power). $5.00 per watt is for the solar panels, and about $2.50 per watt for the grid tied inverter, and $2.50 per watt for installation (really rough numbers).
In California, there is a $2.50 per watt rebate--but it is getting harder to receive the money from the state (new program with significant paper work issues). And up to a $2,000 Federal Tax Credit. (again, rough values, and terms/conditions change all of the time--different from when I did mine 2 years ago).
My system is a 3kW peak CA PTC rated system (3,500 watts of solar panels). Generates around 400 kWhrs/month (summer more, winter less). I am in a relatively sunny area even though I am pretty close to the ocean (protected by coastal hills near SF California). Weather and location do matter.
My price per kW/hr--after rebates, very roughly $0.14 to $0.17 per kWhr (I have "time of use" metering and it runs from $0.09 to $0.30 per kWhr depending on time of day and season--average price is about $0.12 per kWhr at my usage level--basic tier, if I use more that 300 kWhrs/month, it will cost more).
Before rebates, around $0.25/kWhr (assuming everything lasts about 20-25 years).
If you are going off grid, because you need to purchase batteries (and replacement batteries every 5-10 years or so) and you would probably need a generator (fuel costs)--you are probably talking about $1.00 per kWhr (very rough guess) for your cabin power.
If you have high natural gas, propane, or other fuel bills (hot water, home heating, swimming pool, etc.), you might wish to consider installing a solar hot water (or hot air) system instead. The prices for these are about 1/4 the parts and installation costs (vs Solar PV electric), and the panels take up only 1/4 the roof space too (for the same "kWhr/Btu" heating vs solar electric). In the end, if you are conserving fuel or electricity--it is still money in your pocket (and conservation of resources).
There are a lot of details that I really just jumped over--but does this sort of answer your question?
-Bill
Currently, many people use solar panels, which can be placed on a side of a roof to attract sunlight during the day to heat a small number of rooms and water. Citisolar Solar Power Queensland aims to gain the best rebate for quality products.
