I have two Luxeon III Star LED 3 watt flashlights (3D cell). Both lights are equipped with a deep cone lense and produce a bright, intense beam of light. The problem is, both emit an eye-stinging reddish tint. This red tint is a lot like the reddish tint often found in lights using multiple 5mm LEDs.
I need to replace the Lux III LEDs with better ones. But the Luxeon BIN and TINT chart doesn't show color. The code on the present LED is TXPJW (LXHL LW3C).
I believe a green/yellow tint is preferable, as this tint seems to contain more visible light and carries farther. The blue/purplish tint is great for it's pure, bright white light. But I found the voltage had to be increased in order to obtain a beam that could carry the same distance. Still, it's hard to choose between the two.
What Luxeon III Star BIN and TINT designations should I look for ?
What are the tints for each letter combination in the chart ?
The colorization in this chart is just what I needed, THANKS !
I recently went thru about 10 one-watt 3D cell flashlights, and found only 2 that had decent output and tint. After so much work, I kept a third with a pure white tint by changing the resistor. These lights are great, but only with a decent LED and proper alignment. My guess is, bad LEDs must go somewhere, a total of 5 of these lights were unacceptable.
From what I've read, codes may have been changed, maybe 3 times ?
I wonder if the code on the LEDs will hold true to the chart ? (..the LEDs that I have so far appear to).
Have been researching the Seoul LED ... possible trouble with installation, probably too bright, could be heavy on battery consumption. But it's a must have, must try, even if I can't use it.
The Seoul LED using the same power as a Luxeon LED should put out about twice the amount of light so battery consumption should be the same. The thing about the positive slug, a thin layer of Arctic Alumni or a thin piece of Mica will isolate the slug and prevent shorts.
May I ask the brand and model of light you are trying to modify.
A Super 1 watt Dorcy 3D cell (Lowe's), and a #95297 non-flashing, 3 watt Gordon 3D cell (Harbor Freight), running on NiCad batteries.
I had hoped to buy factory-assembled Seoul stars from PhotonFanatic, but these are sold out. The P4 stars I've been able to find, appear to suffer from poor assembly (DX). But if I can't find anything-else...
Well, maybe I'll wait.
I could buy emitters, but where would I find the PCBs and heatsinks ?
The light should already have a heat sink. Here's a thread(and a Post) about how to Seoul the Gordon. The Cree(P3,P4,Q2,Q3,Q4,Q5 in order of least efficient to most efficient) might also work but you'll get more spill light, less hot spot and a ring.