Whenever people agree with me I always feel I must be wrong
Another difference, although not one of significance, is the Cree LE uses the XR Can while the Seoul uses the E-Screw and associated can. (Aleph Light Engine Kit)
"For those who know, no explanation is needed. And for those whom do not, none is possible." They can take your money away, but they can't take your education. If a man's not worth his word then what's he worth?
GDuP Cree and GDuP Seoul Light Engines are available!
Amazing LE's people, come and get it! Wayne and Cindy are top class! now if only I had more Alephs in need of a GDuP...
Recieved my GDuP, thx again for fixing it for me Wayne!
There is A Weekend Special on GDuP LE while quantities last Sat-Tues, until tomorrow
Last edited by Ms_SS; 06-23-2008 at 02:25 PM.
Thanks for the great news.
I found and fixed a problem with the programming fixture for the GDuP that now allows me to re-program the board reliably.
I couldn't figure out why the fixture was so flaky till I started working on the SOBuP programming fixture. Before I installed the pogo pins I inserted a SOBuP and looking from the backside I noticed the pads didn't line up as planned. The board was shifted in one direction. I was able to track down where the shift was and corrected it.
Below is a picture of the SOBuP programming fixture. The key to success is to line up the acrylic orange top overlay the pogo pins since the circle in the acrylic is the key alignment to hold the board in place. If the acrylic top is shifted in the X or Y direction then the board when pressed into the fixture will mean the pads on the converter board will not line up with the pogo pins on the programming fixture. The programming board and acrylic are held in alignment by the 6 pin connector holes. When these are lined up the connector goes through the acrylic and is soldered to the programming fixture and that should line things up. In the picture below you can see I had to hog out the connector section of the acrylic so I could slide it around to make the alignment adjustment.
I then went back to the GDuP and found I had the same board shift relative to the programming fixture. I have since rebuilt the programming fixture and it works all the time with no fuss.
Now that I can do this reliably I plan in releasing new versions of the UI.
Also, some possible good news is I've ordered new blank anode boards that have holes to expose the pads on the converter board. I believe I can make a fixture that will plug into the back of an LE and be able to re-program the microprocessor.
More good news is the same code that runs on the GDuP runs the SOBuP as well so it will be easier to keep track of revision changes.
One of the UIs that will be available shortly is the no latch mode. The UI will always start on power up in low and can be cycled to the next level at any time. The timeout feature will most likely be removed so that the user can cycle at anytime. Of course a reverse clicky might be more appropriate for this application. The McClicky doesn't support this very well.
Regarding the SOBuP. I have one working proto and I am turning the board to correct some minor issues with the component layout and to tweek the circuit a bit.
I forgot to mention that I was planning on making two changes to the current GDuP UI.
The first was to move from 15 cycles to 30 cycles to enter calibration.
The second is the change the lead in, lead out of calibration ramping of the LED to be more visible.
I've been testing new code and only changing the lead-in, lead-out of the ramping sequence of the LED to now ramp down to near off. This ramping up and down is now more pronounced. The next thing to do is to add a small delay after each ramp up/down so that you see it ramp up and down, pause then ramp up then down. This should eliminate and make it such that it's is unmistable what it is doing.
Assuming the new anode board with holes work they will only be available in future runs of LEs. The current batch in stock is not re-workable to replace the anode board.
The SOBuP sounds very promising. Please don't forget those of us who carry a light for duty/defensive use and like the light to start on high (1–1.3A). I assume the programming is flexible enough to allow for this.
Either method is satisfactory as long as the light can reliably start on high.
For maximum flexibility, if the firmware will allow for only one UI, the memory function might be the best solution. If, for instance, I want to use the same light I carry opposite my HK for an alternate use, like hunting, I could memorize the low setting before starting out, rather than the high, so I don't blow out my night vision when I need the light on the trail or stand.
I presume this memory-start high is already available in the current UI.
The best solution for me would be firmware that includes both a four level UI (ultralow-->low-->medium-->high, in that sequence) with memory and an alternate UI without memory that always starts on high or, better yet, only allows high. That would cover all bases and eliminate the concern that my light has memorized the low setting during the last use when I need the subject to see stars, immediately, when I pull the light.
Maybe my needs are a bit atypical. I don't want the firmware to get too cumbersome, but I do like the idea of a two cell light that is accommodating enough in its interface to allow EDC in multiple scenarios.
Thanks for entertaining me.
The current three level which remembers the last state worked well for me. I used all the different levels when I was in Orlando and when we ate at the mexican place at Epcot the area had no lighting except at each table. I remember I pulled my A19 out and knew that it was probably not in low. To avoid blinding everyone I shoved the end into my palm and cycled through the levels to get to low so I could use it to look at the menu. I either use my palm or put my thumb over the end and look at my finger that glows red to determine the brightness level.
Since the converters I offer are different than most others in respect that they are calibrated to match the actual LED used these provide a more accurate current to the LED. Thus, there is a need to be able to re-calibrate the unit over time or on the occasion the UI gets confused. Re-calibrating the light usually gets the light working again in these situations.
Since that is already in place it would be hard to implement additional mode switching without additional complexity and I would prefer to keep the UIs as simple as possible.
One way around this would be to hard code the levels into the firmware so that it can't be changed. This could be accomplished with special procedures when the light is built and custom code is run to extract the calibration values. If calibration could be eliminated then the UI could accomodate mode changes or other features.
What I would like to avoid is having the light accidentally change states, levels or UIs. The best way to test this is to give the light to small child. It's amazing how a small child playing with it will put it in some mode that makes it inoperative.
I know I'm basing my strong opinions on this and it may not agree with a lot of other people.
I have a thought.
It's possible to move calibration from 15 to say 30 and use the count value that is more than 15 and less than 30 to enter menu mode where you could toggle through the menus and make appropriate changes.
With three brightness levels I have found that if you cycle completely around to figure out where you are at and don't reset the count. Then later pick the light up and cycle around again to determine where you are at. It only takes 5 or less times to use the light in this mode which is playing with the light and not using it that you would hit the count value of 15. I know I fiddle with the light all the time and have accumulated a count of 15 in no time.
An additional safety feature could be implemented something like where you cycle the count to 15 wait n seconds and then cycle off, cycle count to 5 and then wait n seconds. Cycle off and then the next time you turn it on it enters menu mode. This is a much harder sequence to enter accidentally and almost ensures a more rock solid approach to gain access to the menu functions.
It could blip the light for each of the 5 cycle counts and a double blip when you get to the required hold of n seconds in the second round. This will visually let you know you are sequencing into the menu mode.
When in menu mode I would propose that the current menu state be presented to the user.
Ie. The standard mode would cycle low, med, high, pause and then repeat
tapping would advance to the next level which could be reverse and the light would then would then cycle high, med, low, pause and then repeat. This would give you a visual indications of the actual menu state you are at instead of memorizing the actual menu states.
Some of the lights I've used I can never remember what the menu functions do. For me personally I can't remember how to use the lights as the menu functions I never remember.
I am stoked at the concept I just created.
Here's the new UI that I'm thinking of.
First off. The enter menu or calibration will be like a lock. It will require two keys to be set. A double key will ensure that mode change or calibration will not be entered accidentally.
To set the first key would require tapping the count to 15+ and then leave the light on for more than 3 seconds and less than 10. Leaving the light on more than 10 seconds resets all counts.
Once the first key is set you would then need to tap to a count of say 5 and then hold the light on again greater than 3 and less than 10. The light would blip after the required hold time to visually give you feedback that you have set a valid tumbler lock position.
the 2nd key could be 5 counts for menu mode and 10 counts for calibration.
Once in menu mode the light would present one of the following depending on the current mode it's in.
MODE 1: Standard low, med, high, remember last state.
Ramping low to high followed by a constant light of 2 seconds, pausing then repeating the sequence.
MODE 2: high, med, low, remember last state.
The light would ramp high to low followed by a constant light of 2 seconds, pausing then repeating.
MODE 3: Mode 1 without memory.
Ramping low to high , pausing then repeating the sequence.
MODE 4: Mode 2 without memory
The light would ramp high to low , pausing then repeating.
MODE 5: Single level high.
Mode 6: Single level medium.
To exit menu mode. Repeat key 2 sequence. 5 taps, hold on for 3 seconds. Light will blink letting you know it's set the mode.
Calibration will not require and exit sequence. Once it completes it will resume normal functionality.
How does this sound?
I love it! Brilliant.
Just wanted to give a status update.
I have a couple things to update.
Let's see... Importance first or most awesome first. Hmmm.
Let's try awesome first.
I have a jig template that I have used successfully to drill holes in the bottom anode board to gain access to the programming pads on the inside converter board and I have a programming fixture that I have now used for the past week or since I last posted to develop the new code. The fixture has proven to be very robust and stable. This means that existing GDuP will be re-programmable once the holes have been drilled out.
The second bit of news is I have just completed the first phase of implementation of the new UI. It's still in a very infant stage and needs a lot of testing and tweeking before it can be released. I don't have an ETA. It will launch when it's stable and don't know when that will be. A beta version might be available shortly for field testing if there are any beta testers out there .
Also, the same code will run on the GDuP or the SOBuP. That's great news since I won't have to maintain different versions for the different products.
I have new anode boards that have the additional holes for access to the programming interface. That should mean future LEs will be upgradeable without having to drill them out.
A side note is I have the fabs for the SOBuP and the SOB anode board. The SOB anode board has holes in it as well and should allow re-programming the SOBuP even as a LE.
The current UI is as follows. (subject to change)
First Key: Tap 7-8 times Hold the light on for the 8th or 9th time for ~1.5 seconds till it blinks. Must turn off light before 3 full seconds or everything is reset.
Second Key: Tap 5 times, hold on for 1.5 seconds on 6th or 7th for ~1.5 seconds till it blinks. Again, must release or turn off before the 3 second mark or everything resets.
After the 2nd key you then cycle through the menu turning the light on and watching what it does.
To exit the menu you need to repeat Second Key.
Currently I have 15 taps still calibration, but, that will move to a second key of 9 taps.
The menu is still as described above.
Since there are many other features like SOS, blink and other features I would like to hear about them and if they should be added to the current menu or a second menu.
About the first and 2nd key. Holding the light on for ~1.5 seconds on an exact count is not easy to do. Did you tap 7 or 8 times. To make it more friendly I have set a window allowing you to overshoot a count or two. For the 7 count, you can hold on 7,8,9 and they would all perform key one.
Key 2 is 5-7.
Comments, suggestions welcomed.
Sounds like as long as you hold for 2 seconds but less than 3 you've entered the key.
Doesn't sound bad, sounds hard to do by accident but simple enough if its intentional.
Now if you do enter both keys and it gets to the menu where your presented with a "blip" while holding or a "blip" after release???
Then press 5 times to get a menu flash-out of your current mode.
Or 10 for calibration... do we really need to do this? Is it just for making sure the forward voltage of the LED has not decreased as I hear is possible with a SSC P4?
Once in menu can we just press once to switch to the next MODE, I think my finger may be a little tired at this point
Sounds great I like your menu choices
I don't like SOS or strobe
I really love that my GDuP (SSC P4) has no visual "blip" once the level is on please keep that feature.
I've only managed to get into calibration once by mistake and got quite the show.
I'd be up for beta testing a new UI version theres a Aleph Mule in my collection that could use a light engine and be an unnoticable extra EDC.
The ease and facility with which the user can navigate from one menu to another is a concern of mine, as well. I can foresee switching between user menus frequently.
Any method of directly selecting a given menu once in menu mode (such as three taps to select menu 3) would be vastly preferable to waiting through a complete linear progression of menus.
Regarding alternate functions, I can see a personal use for a 12-15 Hz high-output strobe function, albeit a hidden one accessible through the "high only" menu by means of a gesture: tap-->tap-->press would initiate the strobe. The menu would reset on high after standard timeout.
Also, not to beat this drum again, but for me the high needs a drive current of at least 1A. Otherwise, please consider integrating into the UI a tactical/defensive menu that employs a burst level, preferrably at 1.2–1.3 A. As far as I'm concerned, this "burst only" menu could replace Mode 5 and include the "SmartStrobe" gesture (a term derivative of Milky's Acorn "SmartMax" feature) described above.
Also, upon further thought, I don't see much need for the Mode 6 "medium only" menu. IMO, there are few situations where you would need immediate, fail-proof access to a utilitarian medium level. If you did, you could rely upon the memory function of one of the other menus or quickly skip over the preceding level in the menu.
Other than that, my only other wish would be the inclusion of an ultra-low level into the menus for clandestine navigation/gear-check/night-reading use, somewhere in the ballpark of 1 torch lumen. I don't think four levels would be too cumbersome.
Just my thoughts for whatever they're worth. I'm very enthused over this project.
Again, thanks for entertaining my musings, Wayne.
Last edited by mfrey; 09-28-2008 at 05:39 PM.
mfrey I like your idea for getting a strobe into MODE 5, good for LEO
Also making the MODE 5 High at 1 amp is a good idea if possible
I agree that medium-only isn't needed and sacrificing MODE 6 for an ultralow-only mode would be fun but I'm not looking for 4 levels on a daily basis the low is already low enough. Thats why theres a milkycandle2 on my nightstand. I don't walk around (stumble) in the middle of the night with a $$$ light in my hand.
Without reading through this entire thread...... Can this board be used to make a sandwich and fit anyplace a sandwich fits?
Last edited by littlerm; 05-04-2009 at 11:07 PM.
You're probably busy, but if you have time I was wondering if I were to use this converter with alkalines (d most likely) do you think I'd be better with 2 or 3 cells? I think this converter has a great potential for emergency lights because of it's regulated output all the way down to 10ma, even more so when the SOBuP comes out.
siamo il rumore
Using the LED board, converter board and anode board to make a three board sandwich is possible. I have not made one, but, when I designed the GDuP I did measure the total stack and determined a sandwich could be made. My fixturing for two boards barely work to my acceptance level and I have decided it not worth attempting tooling for special jigs for a tri-board setup. Making one off should be no problem if one is careful.