Looks like only the Tri-flupic is $40
Looks like only the Tri-flupic is $40
Thanks guys for pointing out I restocked FLuPICs and Tri-FLuPICs on the store.
I also have 10x 0.77" Arc, Q3 boards I had built for the buyers in this thread. I didn't post to the store yet since there are so few I wanted those who posted the first crack at them. These are indeed priced at $25 a piece. Please refer to the first post for payment details.
In the near future I'll be able to figure out if I have some 10.5mm boards to offer as well.
PayPal sent for two Arc LS boards.
I'd like four .770" Arc LS boards.
Last edited by TranquillityBase; 05-14-2008 at 07:03 PM.
I try to ship the day I get paypal, if not I ship the next available date. Everyone gets a shipping email automatically through the paypal system *except* those who ship first class Intl. because I have to do that the old fashioned way and wait in line at the PO. I'm sorry for the oversight on my part, but your tri-FLuPIC was shipped about a week ago. Thanks
Received my Tri Flupic today Thank You, the D li-ion running a I have from KD seems to sag too much to achieve more than 2.6 Amps flat out running a P7. I have a pack consisting of 4 Eneeloop AA in series, is the voltage too high for the Tri Flupic?
4 eneloops will work just fine. I have a 1d mag set up witha tri-flupic that way. But I haven't measured the current, so I can't say what that will be.
I have a tri-flupic running with 4AA's (2000mAh Sony- low self discharged) to drive a P7. I have measure 3.6A going the the P7 in burst mode. However its starts flickering after about 20s with fresh batteries. Also I cannot set the user settable levels higher than the brightness setting 8, after that I get flickering. Quite annoying, it does not seem that I can make the most of that setting.
Has anybody had that problem?
It seems to be OK with a C size Li-ion, no flickering.
Does the tri-flupic need heavy heat sinking? I have stuck mine using adhesive thermal pads (adhesive pad on the chip side) on a piece of alumiminium glued with artic alumina on the P7 heat sink. Do I need to pot the tri-flupic rather than rely on thermaly conductive adhesive pads?
Does anybody know the efficiency of the tri-flupic in function of the batterie voltage and led Vf at the different settings?
Last edited by Luminous; 05-28-2008 at 01:40 PM.
The Flupic Drivers do not regulate current at 3.6amps. They do no regulate at all they provide a Max current with PWM dimming. A regulated light maintains the same EXACT brightness no matter what the input voltage is. The flupic just regulates the max current and changes the brightness through PWM based on the input voltage. It does not Boost or Buck.
Thanks for the replies Mac. Is a heat sink necessary for the TriFlupic?
As I understand it,the Tri-flupic does not regulate on burst,but the max output of each chip(x3) is limited to 1200ma.I think the output is dependant on the input voltage.With four NiMH output should be around 3.6a,with one Li-ion output will be lower,from observation.I am assuming this is because of the emitter Vf and the dropout voltage of the driver.
The max Vin is 5.5v according to goldserve.You will get the flicker on the high levels if the driver is not very well heatsinked.I had one(4xNiMH)that was marginally sinked and it flickered until I potted and remounted(w/AA) on a modified H22A heatsink.With this combination it has been solid.
Last edited by TexLite; 05-28-2008 at 09:53 PM. Reason: clarity
Thanks for your help.
I have potted the tri-flupic and it now works without flickering on all levels.
Just to clarify, the tri-flupic is only a dimmer? it does not regulate at all (even semi-regulate)? I am a bit confused.
I thought it was possible to have a flupic either set at 1A or 1.2A in Burst. Is the current limitation only with a particular voltage? If not, there must be some kind of regulation as the current limitation would be independent of voltage?
Last edited by Luminous; 05-29-2008 at 03:56 PM.
Anyone who knows more please correct me since I can't find the info. on the old threads, but this is what I remember:
FLuPICs are LDO buck boards with PWM dimming. When the burst is set at DD then it works just like a DD PWM controller (out of regulation). As long as Vin > Vf you have buck regulation unless you are in burst at DD.
I've been trying to place an order through your site for the past 10 mins. It's running extremely slow right now & I keep getting logged out due to some type of browser security check. Never had a problem ordering before.
I will just place my order through paypal.
PP cash sent for:
1x Flupic converter version 2.2 Standard Sammie 0.55"
1x Flupic converter version 2.2 Standard Sammie 0.55" 1amp burst
First class shipping.
Not sure if you have me down but as posted before, please put me down for two 10.5mm Flupics.
Thanks, I shipped your order. I'm sorry for the inconvenience as I admit the store can be a pain. We have a new store almost ready, I just need to put in the time to get it running.
Paypal sent for 3x 10.5mm Flupics.