Wow that was great, thanks for the response, but I have more questions!!!
I used Arctic Alumina. It does not conduct electricity.
I do not know about the Arctic Silver. I stopped using that when I began doing Seoul mods.
- artic silver is a non adhesive, it will not allow the LED to be attached to the round thing on the fenix head. I head though having this paste will distrubute the heat to the rest of the head
To attach the new Q5, mix a small batch of adhesive. (I recommend AA, but use what you feel comfortable with, and at your own risk.) Put a generous amount of AA on the clean pedestal, and goop it into the channel around the pedestal. Place the LED onto the pedestal in the same position as the original. Seat the LED into the AA. Rotate the LED back, and forth while pressing it down. Thread the reflector/lens part of the head onto the LED/bottom portion of the head and check for perfect centering of the LED. Adjust as necessary before the AA dries. You have less than 5 minutes, so work quickly. Before moving on, check to be sure that there is not continuity with the positive terminal of the LED and the head.
- if I assume I cannot use the artic silver, the adhesive will prevent the heat to be dissapated to the head of the led, which means it's not a good idea? What's an AA, is it thermal adhesive?
When the adhesive has completely cured, solder the wires to the LED. Use some paste flux and very thin solder to make the connections quickly. After testing the function of the light, mix another small batch of thermal adhesive and cover the leads. You could also use some Kapton tape on the back of the reflector to prevent a short to ground. put the light back together, and prepare to be amazed. The P2D that I upgraded with a WC tint Q5 had an average increase of 33% over the stock P4.
- when you say the adhesive must cover the leads, what do you mean?
why is it really needed?
- why do you use the kapton tape if I put the LED as before?
Thank you!!!!!