L1 Cree beam quality

SCblur

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I just picked up a Cree L1 yesterday, and I already own two ML-1 builds with different beam characteristics. I must say, I was less than impressed with the quality of the Cree L1 beam. There is a SIGNIFICANT dark ring that surrounds the hotspot, and many deformities that give the beam an overall 'rough and textured' look. Is this typical of the new Cree head, or do I have a dud? I only ask because I've read nothing but good stuff about it, and I didn't know if the issue was not a widespread one.

Thanks,
Josh
 

Kiessling

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Hi Josh.
The beauty of that beam on a white wall leaves to be desired. Some rings, some irregularities ... somelights more and some less I guess, but as it is so hard to capture on photos, this is difficult to tell.

However ... go and use this light outside. The beam is a miracle. Perfect ground coverage in medium distances, good reach and brightness, perfect field of vision. It rivals my U2.
This optic is one hell of a performer when usefulness is concerned. I am very very impressed with it. Just not on a white wall.

bernie
 

Valpo Hawkeye

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I agree with Bernie. Additionally, the level of the diffusing film varies from L1 to L1. It's not an artifact-free beam, but it works pretty well for me. However, if you have a beamshot, we can tell if it's normal or not.
 

seery

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Couldn't agree more with Bernie and Valpo on the points made. And like
Valpo, my L1's all have slightly different diffusion on the lens.

IMO there are (3) types of beams.

#1 - PLAY BEAM - Good to play with and that's qbout it.

#2 - USER BEAM - Not good on walls but kicks *** out in the world.

#3 - USELESS BEAM - Well this one is pretty much self explanatory!

The L1-cree has an amazing "user beam" as Bernie pointed out. Give it a
few runs out there and you'll be impressed.

Great light. Enjoy.
 

WildChild

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I had the same reaction with my E2L when I got it! I tought it was a bad one but after I playing much with it inside and outside, I stopped to see the imperfections. This is a great light! After getting the L1 that has the same exact beam, I knew it's the way it is supposed to be! ;)
 

The Porcupine

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Yup, the L1 has a perfect beam for real world, all round use. I had a bit of the same reaction when I first saw the beam from my Kroma. But that too works extremely well.
 

faco

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I had the previous L1 and sold it because of the narrow beam and the rings etc around the beam. When I got the Cree L1 I kind of felt the same as you but really don't mind now as its a perfect beam in real use and much better than the previous L1 (IMO)
Just don't point it on white walls..........:sssh: I still point it on white walls every so often :)
 

Flashlike

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My new L1 CREE has a somewhat "blotchy" hot spot at close range. The imperfections in the hot spot are more noticeable at a distance less than 6' or so and hardly detectable at a distance of 8' and farther.

I wonder how Milky's "Seoulmated TIR Optic" mod with the Seoul P4-USWOH emitter (approx. 91-100 lumen output) would look in comparison, and if any beam irregularities at close range? According to Milky's drawing and information (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175864) it sounds like it would be much better than the stock Gen 4 TIR optic.

This is a bit off topic, but I don't use the lanyard ring on my L1 CREE and would prefer to have it off there. I read another post where someone said it can be easily removed by using a small flat-blade screwdriver and gently prying underneath it then sliding it back off of the tailcap. My lanyard ring has two small grooves where it looks like it's been bonded together from the factory. It is a hard material and I think I would break it by trying to pry it off.
 

MarNav1

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It's not bonded nor will it break very easily. Just work something thin in there and it will open up.
 

cryhavok

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I put a Seoul P4 in my KL1 a while ago and posted about it here (with some beamshots)

My new L1 CREE has a somewhat "blotchy" hot spot at close range. The imperfections in the hot spot are more noticeable at a distance less than 6' or so and hardly detectable at a distance of 8' and farther.

I wonder how Milky's "Seoulmated TIR Optic" mod with the Seoul P4-USWOH emitter (approx. 91-100 lumen output) would look in comparison, and if any beam irregularities at close range? According to Milky's drawing and information (http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175864) it sounds like it would be much better than the stock Gen 4 TIR optic.

This is a bit off topic, but I don't use the lanyard ring on my L1 CREE and would prefer to have it off there. I read another post where someone said it can be easily removed by using a small flat-blade screwdriver and gently prying underneath it then sliding it back off of the tailcap. My lanyard ring has two small grooves where it looks like it's been bonded together from the factory. It is a hard material and I think I would break it by trying to pry it off.
 

Flashlike

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Marnav1--Thanks for the explanation on the lanyard ring, but try as I might I can't pry my lanyard ring off. I've got two very small screwdrivers and get either one of them between the ring and the tailcap tube--there is just not enough clearance. I even tried my thin pocket knife blade.

cryhavok--That mod you did on the KL1 head looks very nicely done! That was a great idea to use the Glowpoxy.

I'm not that skilled when it comes to detailed mods like that (especially on a $$urefire), so I'd rather have someone more experienced tackle the job.
 

Flashlike

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Marnav1--UPDATE!! I just got my lanyard ring off. I didn't realize that it was two half-rings that interlock.
Now if I could just find a big, fat glow ring that would fit in that groove?!
 

Flashlike

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270Winchester--You're right. The L1's beam isn't just for white wall hunting! This evening I took it outside and went on a short walk. The light output is impressive--that's for sure.
I'm just always looking for ways to make a good flashlight even better, and MilkySpit has a fine track record of doing just that.
 
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