Fenix Suggestions

I thought that the following offerings would probably enhance their bottom line:

1. Tactical: 2 & 3x123A lights, bodies a-la the custom Fenix tactical bodies they're selling now, + 40mm heads with Q5, for better throw. If they price them at the $100 range, they'll get lots of people excited.

Suggested UI: Tactical forward clickie, 3-stage bezel-twist selection - Low, Max, Strobe

2. EDC/Pocketable: 1xAAA light.

Suggested UI: 2-levels High/Low

3. Larger format: 2-C cell light with the same features as the L1(2)Tv2. Can even have a tactical model based on the same chassis... with a forward-clickie and strobe.

A lug type body for their 1xAAA light series (like Peak did...).

A 2xAAA lug type body for their 1xAAA lights which can stand 3.0 V.

A lights running on 3 or 4 AAA or AA clustered together side by side, so that the cylinder is only one cell long. And/or lights running on C or D cells.

Lower Low! it would save our night blindness and last even longer.

17670 and 18650 bodies with turbo head in the sold out olive color.

I was able to see this color in person, I have to say that is the best looking Fenix that I have seen. Of course, except for the SS L1.

Drop the strobe and sos function.

First the money maker... I want to buy some small lights for non flashaholics. So far with all the lights I've tested... I have to say Jetbeam C-LE v2 is very close, but Strobe and SOS ruin the UI for me.

So Fenix will make mucho, if they make a similar light, without the Strobe and SOS. It needs to have a very similar build quality, and most importantly the same price ($30 or less). They could get some major chain to carry such a general purpose light, IMHO it would have a wide demographic appeal.

Now that they are rich... they can make the enthusiasts an 18650 light, so we'll continue to love them and fund their leading edge 'premium' LED of the month editions. They won't make a lot of money on this because that is not a cell for many people at this point.

I'm waiting for my Olive Drab PD3, but if it is nice then they should put it on more lights.

That Silver was awesome; looks great on small lights. Existing natural looks great also on the smaller lights. Bring back the Silver for that General User light I talk about above.

Kill SOS on every light! Then start thinking about how the various UI can change to keep Strobe out of the way, but quickly and easily accessible.

OK they make some of the best general pocket lights. I'm not sure if they should branch out too far yet. I'd say they need a programmable light like the NovaTacs.

One market they should think about is the outdoor enthusiast, better than going for the LEO crowd, it has heavy hitters with US manufacturing. For the 'Adventurer' they need to beef-up the waterproofing, and build, get a low-low in there, try to get a RED light in there, make a headband so it can be used as a headlamp if needed.

Make Fenix Lego easier, or create a special series for Lego.

They should hire me as a part-time consultant; I could use some extra money to buy a few of those custom lights, find out what really works, and prevent another SOS.

OK, but overall I think Fenix makes great lights! :thumbsup:

StandardBattery said:

I'm waiting for my Olive Drab PD3, but if it is nice then they should put it on more lights.

Click to expand...

I was able to see the Olive Drab P3D in person and all I can say is, WOW! It's a beautiful color.

If you don't like it PM me.

there are a billion light offers with larger-head-than-body, and all of them suck in therms of Fenix' No 1 feature: good pocketability

most of the Fenix users (like me, of there were an 18650 model with LOW low) seem to like the change-level-with-switch feature, why change that?
Make the good idea bad to incorporate a two hands action?

till there is a low low and 18650, all my Fenixes will only see seldom use, when I led them around on hikes.

To get them into reatil shops would dramatically increase the sales numbers. Dont think they could meet the demand then.

PS: cant You all please stop that silly "get strobe and SOS out of the way"-claims?
Sure SOS is crap, a low herz blinking would be much better, but how the hell can these levels get "in the way"?

I'm with the 1X18650 P3D with the standard head and low/high/off via forward clickie.

StandardBattery said:

Kill SOS on every light! Then start thinking about how the various UI can change to keep Strobe out of the way, but quickly and easily accessible.

Click to expand...

How about this UI

Head unscrewed slightly - Super Low (2.5 lumens), Medium (15 lumens), High (60 lumens) , Turbo (200 lumens)
Head screwed on all the way - Strobe

With this UI you could access strobe on a single click or if you didn't want to use it you would never have to see it. To me this might be a perfect UI for general use and during an emergency.

Nitroz said:

17670 and 18650 bodies with turbo head i.....

Drop the strobe and sos function.

Click to expand...

+1

In the unlikely event that I am stranded on an island & need to signal to a passing ship, I will just SOS manually.

Also, if I see an attacker moving in for the kill, I'll simply leg-it. Fiddling around the UI for strobe mode is a possibility, but very unlikely IMHO.

18650 please.

frosty said:

18650 please.

Click to expand...

+1 for 18650.

Another 18850 thought:

Make an oversized LOD-CE type light built around a 18650 with an OP reflector to get the smallest possible 18650 light. Big enough for a protected 18650, also capable of running off 2 CR123s or RCR123s. Keep the long thread engagement of the LOx lights (7 full turns from first thread engagement to turn on in mine) so your have plenty of room to accommodate variations of battery length.

Hold a bare 18650 in your hand and note how SMALL it is. Easily pocketable if manufacturers just wouldn't put any excessive clunky mass (turbo head, clickie switch) around it when they design their light.

I personally like the LOC-CE UI, so I'd keep it or replace it with a low (10%)-med(30%)-high-strobe-SOS pattern UI. I wouldn't want a memory feature as I would keep forgetting.

Make a cheaper Civictor version (with type 2 anodize) if you can achieve a $$ reduction comparable to the original L1P-to-Civictor discount (25% ?). Again, I'd provide an alternative lug style body as an option.

Fenix should introduce fully knurled bodies on its 1x cr123 bodies, or the very least, on the heads of the P2D, P3D, and L2Ts, which are designed to be twisted. I don't think that'll cost too much (hyperion CE-R has it at $35), and it sure will add more grip and looks to the lights as well.

+1 vote for lower low (2-3 lumens would = approx. 240 hrs. runtime on P3D)


suggestion for all you strobe and sos haters and also for those of you who use or want just a hi/lo.
try using your light like this: set bezel 1/8th turn away from turbo, click on low, then side press the bezel to get turbo when you want it for short bursts, or use it as a twisty to hold one setting or the other. You then miss med, high, sos and strobe.


Why does turbo mode have only 2 settings and regular has 4 (maybe there is a good reason for this, does someone out there know?)... eg. P3D could have something like 3lumens, 30lumens, 120lumens, sos,... and then 215lumens, 75lumens, 12lumens, strobe.

And just for the hell of it, make a three-second "press and hold" that cycles the current bezel setting's levels (eg. order can change to 25, 110, sos, 3... then 110, sos, 3, 25 etc.) with fifth cycle choice turning off the strobe or sos settings.

This would give a great range of intensity choices AND make a SIMPLE way to program the ordering of light you want. You could still keep it simple by using the light as a twisty as described above, but yet just the way you want by jumping between just about any 2 of the settings... eg. mostly use only 3 or 75... or only 12 and 120 etc.

A lot of people would configure the light the way they want and then leave it that way almost all the time.

Someone correct me in saying this shouldn't increase the size of the light much, nor with a large lot produced, should the cost of the chip increase light cost much.

But if nothing else, give me a lower low... most of my fenixes are too bright on low setting as a night light for the kids, and almost too bright for reading.

Get rid of the turn on and switching flash.

Use a press and hold for one second to access strobe or SOS functions.

Add a last setting used memory at turn on.

Checker the majority of the bodies. The lights are too slippery.

Put a real LED in the LxTv2 series.

yellow said:

Sure SOS is crap, a low herz blinking would be much better, but how the hell can these levels get "in the way"?

Click to expand...

because if your on turbo and you turn the light off then on quickly (ie turning it off then realising you still need it on) you get the strobe so its in the way!

my ideal interface:

Tactical switch:
general: low (that is Low), med, high, SOS (just in case)
Turbo: Turbo

yes i know you would have to turn off and on to switch modes in 'general' but thats fine! and in 'turbo' mode it would take advantage of the tactical switch, that would give me all the brightness levels i need with all the userbility i need (i need more than just the 2 levels on the L2T).

A Civictor with a Cree or Rebel. The 1/4 inch shorter makes a big difference in pocketability.

Less bright and longer run-times on high mode. Trash the SOS and all those flashy thingies, because they are nothing but worthless little toys that get in the way.:devil: Low - Med. - High modes are all you really need, but make a few flashlights with those flashy thingies for the kids.