LOD CE head fits new Steamlight Microsteam body (tactical switch)

[bltkmt]

And here it is! You can see where I scratched up the Microstream's body a little.

Cannot see?

[jbviau]

Cannot see?

Hmm, should be fixed now. Not sure what I did to anger the Photobucket gods before. I want to see pics of other Fenixstreams, especially with mismatched colors! Black and red/orange, anyone?

p.s. Thanks to the OP and all of you for this great idea. It's my first successful mod!

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Picked up a Microstream today at Carter's Country and it doesn't seem to be a bad light in it's own right!

The clickie is hard enough to activate that it serves as a push on light.

ACTUALLY I think it would be more useful to me carried as my LOD is now, since I do carry an L1D as primary edc.

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Was asked whether Lith AAA or NimH AAA are good for this light (stock Microstream).

I figure the experts here can tell me!

[alibaba]

Was asked whether Lith AAA or NimH AAA are good for this light (stock Microstream).

I figure the experts here can tell me!

They will both work just fine. Mine gets about 2.5 hours on NiMH's and around 5 hours on lithium's. This light just LOVES the lithium's and that is what I carry (or my GF carries) in my light.


jbviau
Flashaholic







If you reverse the battery tube, in other words put the tailcap on the "head" end and put the LOD head on the "tail" end you can get rid of that gap.

[jbviau]

Yup, right you are. Thanks for the tip. Are you listening, jojobos? He has my Fenixstream now.

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

kewl! Now to get the head off the MS...

[alibaba]

kewl! Now to get the head off the MS...

Rubber strap wrenches on the body and head (or rubber bands) and gentle application of heat from a candle. you don't need to get it hot, just warm. Then all you do is do the twist...................

[Anto]

Got my LOD and MS in today.

Head was a PAIN to get off, I marred up the MS body pretty well.
The MS is a very nice light to begin with, the beam is not as ringy as the LOD and has a nice tint with no artifacts in the beam pattern. Brightness was as stated, between medium and high on the LOD, and it does throw further than the LOD.

Anyway, I addressed the problem people are having with the body being too long. I shaved off a few milimeters of thread on the MS body, allowing the o-ring to actually function as designed - to keep water out. I could have taken off a mm or so more, but I didn't want to risk the chance of cutting it too short. Some people say you can just turn the body around, but then the tailcap is sticking out too far.

You can do this at home if you have access to a dremel. Measure and cut carefully, and make sure it's even. A trick you can do is to put the body over the top of the cutting bit ,so the screw is facing the inside center of the body, and finish up like that. It allows for a more evenly distributed finishing grind.
After that, clean the threads with some 500grit sandpaper, wash off, and assemble!

Here's a picture below. Notice the shortened gap.

[Pima Pants]

I was so impressed with this mod that I purchased a second MS, the 2xAA model. The head came off easier this time after using a butane lighter to warm up the joint and defeat the glue. With the Fenix head on it, the light seems brighter than the 1xAA. I don't know by how much, but it is noticeably so.

[Pima Pants]

Well, I spoke too soon. Fenix head with 2xAA MS body causes some major flickering. Not too bad on the first setting, VERY bad on the lowest setting and absent on the highest. I've cleaned the contacts and changed batteries but it does it whether I use alkalines or lithiums.

Anyone have an answer?

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I have no way of telling you for sure but maybe the LOD is 1AAA for a reason?

[Pima Pants]

Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. Maybe I'm overdoing it by doubling up on the batteries.

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I've heard of people running them on 3.6V Li-Ions but losing the modes.

So I can't REALLY put my finger on anything about 2 batteries. It was just a thought.

[Pima Pants]

Your opinion is welcomed nonetheless.

[tsask]

I've heard of people running them on 3.6V Li-Ions but losing the modes.

So I can't REALLY put my finger on anything about 2 batteries. It was just a thought.

I run a 10440 on occasions in my L0DCE MicroSteam. It's been about 2 years with moderate EDC duty w/o a prob.
AA compatability woud be a plus. 2 AAs should mean longer runtime.

I would NEVER run 2 14500s with the L0D CE

[Pima Pants]

Thanks. Other than the flicker on low setting, it's fine. On high or strobe it is brilliantly bright.

By the way, my previous posts indicated "2xAA" when it should be "2xAAA".

[Pima Pants]

Never mind. (I thought I found a fix but it didn't work.)

[Cosmo7809]

I just received my microstream today. With in the first 10 minutes I was out side in the garage, using the worm clamp tip taking the head off. It worked great and the lod head fits great. Im thinking about buying the LD01 and putting that head on the microsteam and making that part of my new EDC. Its small enough where you cant even tell its here!

Thanks OP and everyone else who posted in this thread, very imformative!

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Glad you like it Cosmo! Mine has the head and tail on the other ends and clips lens down in my work shirt pocket!

[Abumustafa]

Yo my fellow Flashaholics has any1 else tried this setup out, is it as good as the MS or not as good!!!

Rollin, how does the switch feel is it hard to press or smooth an how durable do you think it is or does it feel like it will break afta awhile your feedback would be greatly appreciated thanks guys!!!

This fits. You have to cut the spring to bridge the gap. It works fine...

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I forgot mine along with my other pocket stuff like pen, marker and magnet today.

Switch seems robust enough.

[Abumustafa]

Playboy are you talking about the one from DX or the Microstream,

Any1 have both of them to compare both switchs an see which 1 is more robust, i know the Microstream will be brighter but there have been many complaints about the switch on it so a comparison will be great !!!

Thanx

I forgot mine along with my other pocket stuff like pen, marker and magnet today.

Switch seems robust enough.

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Mine is made with a Microstream I got at Carters Country (gun and knife store in Houston).

I switched ends and it fits together better that way. That is that the LOD head is on the tail end of the MS and the MS tail is on the head end.

As the MS is black and my LOD is natural it looks rather frankenstined!

I know not what DX thing you are referring to....

[Abumustafa]

This one here Playboy it is similer but mayb not as robust as the MS!!!

As Rolling has posted the pictures of his an it looks nice!!!

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10683
This one fits the LOD-CE also.

[Abumustafa]

Just wanted ask you fellas if any1 has tried this little AAA clicky on the LOD or LD01, the threads look about the same as far as i can tell, might order 1 an see if it fits like they say take 1 for the team

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2976

Any info will be appreciated
Thanx

[Pontiaker]

Got my LOD and MS in today.

Head was a PAIN to get off, I marred up the MS body pretty well.
The MS is a very nice light to begin with, the beam is not as ringy as the LOD and has a nice tint with no artifacts in the beam pattern. Brightness was as stated, between medium and high on the LOD, and it does throw further than the LOD.

Anyway, I addressed the problem people are having with the body being too long. I shaved off a few milimeters of thread on the MS body, allowing the o-ring to actually function as designed - to keep water out. I could have taken off a mm or so more, but I didn't want to risk the chance of cutting it too short. Some people say you can just turn the body around, but then the tailcap is sticking out too far.

You can do this at home if you have access to a dremel. Measure and cut carefully, and make sure it's even. A trick you can do is to put the body over the top of the cutting bit ,so the screw is facing the inside center of the body, and finish up like that. It allows for a more evenly distributed finishing grind.
After that, clean the threads with some 500grit sandpaper, wash off, and assemble!

Here's a picture below. Notice the shortened gap.

I also did this to get rid of the gap completely.I used my knife grinder/belt sander with an old worn 800 grit belt, no thread clean up needed afterward. Also it does not have to be perfect I think you just dont want to go too short or you will not have ground contact.I did it with my polished special edition stainless steel Fenix LDO1 I think?I will be blasting the black body tomorrow so it matches the stainless better. I dont care for the guarded cap on the DX light. Love the Streamlight clicky cap though! I dont realy like how long it makes the light...I just ran mine under really hot water and used rubber kitchen gloves for grip, works great. This is how I take apart all my sealed lights and SF heads too.
Matt

[DHart]

In anticipation of receiving my LD01 from Lighthound I decided to remove the head on my MS and beef up the engagement surface of the switch.

I was unable to remove the head with rubber covered pliers and vise, so I boiled the head for 3 minutes. The head then came off easily. And all looked fine... UNTIL I powered it up... the beam had become very ringy and rainbow-multi-colored... so the heat must have tweaked the reflector or lens enough to create the very colorful new beam. Not a big deal, as I plan to use the LD01 head on the MS body anyway, but I would have preferred that the MS head be left good as new. SO... word to the wise about boiling!!! Next time I would use the small hose clamp method and perhaps applying a little head with a lighter.

AS for the boot, as I tried to remove it, it got a small tear, so I used the tear opening to insert a small round rubber plug between the switch and the boot, then applied a little glue to help close the tear... that worked ok, though the switch still requires a significant depression to click to constant on.

So, I gained some knowledge in exchange for some losses... education isn't free! Fortunately the cost of a MS isn't much.

Now... can't wait to receive the LD01 to see if destroying the MS head was worth it all!

[DHart]

No sooner did I toast my Microstream head in the boiling water when the LD01 arrived in the mail from Lighthound... And along with it, some AW 10440 cells. I filed down the threads a little on the MS body so the LD01 head can sit right up against the flange on the MS body... topped off the 10440 and put it all together.... all I can say is W~O~W! The output is stunning for a single AAA light. Stunning for a AA light even! In my standardized ceiling-bounce test I recorded 4.8 EV from this thing.... just for comparison, some of my other ceiling bounce measures:

LD01 head on Microstream with 10440 ====== 4.8 EV
Jet III M with warm emitter & 18650 ====== 4.8 EV
Solarforce SuperBright Q5 & two RCR123's === 4.8 EV
Nitecore D10 R2 with protected 14500 Li-Ion=== 4.9 EV
Solarforce R2 4.2-8.4v lamp w/ two RCR123's== 4.7 EV
ConneXion X2 w/ protected 14500 Li-Ion ===== 3.7 EV

Clearly, the LD01/10440/Microstream is a handy, nice, and POTENT package. So, yes, toasting the original MS head was irksome for sure, but now that I have seen what the LD01 head can do on the MS body.... I couldn't care less about the MS head anymore.

P.S. Edited to add... now a few hours later, I'm really still in shock at the light that the LD01 on a 10440 puts out... gives me a totally new perspective on the diminutive AAA flashlight! Still in disbelief, I had to do another ceiling bounce test and sure enough, came back with 4.8 EV again. Seeing is believing.

[hotlight]

is the light still "waterproof" with this mod?