this_is_nascar
Flashaholic
This may be the 1xAA LED light I've been waiting for. The exterior of the Pro looks like the normal Proton, except its a bit taller due to the reflector in the bezel. The lobster-claw attachment that comes with the normal Proton is no longer part of the Pro package. The Pro comes with just a small split-ring, already installed. I've done no runtime testing on the Pro as of this time. The single Cree LED is centered in the reflector, with a small cutout to let the RED light come out the front. The RED LED is actually buried underneath, behind the reflector. It makes for non-true circle beam of the RED light, however its only noticeable if you're looking for it and it has not effect on using the light.
To me, this light is fantastic. I've always loved the UI (wouldn't mind a couple tweaks specific to my needs) of the LRI product line. The beam is looks like your typical Cree-based emitter, however, there's something about this little power-house that just makes it seem different. While this light is definitely more of a thrower than the flood-type light produced by the standard Proton, the Pro's beam is extremely useful. While being a great thrower, you don't lose as much spill/flood as you'd expect.
Not only is the Proton Pro a keeper for me, it's going to be a light to replace quite a few other lights. For those wanting a very useful, small, powerful light in a 1xAA form-factor, take a look at the new LRI Proton Pro.
Edit #1: Here's the 1st runtime graph on one of my units. This shows a Ray-o-Vac alkaline vs. an Energizer E2 lithium. For each test, the light was started at full brightness.
Edit #2: Here's a beamshot, comparing a 6xNichia Proton to the new 1xCree Proton Pro. Each picture was done in auto-exposure, in a partially lit room, with both lights on high. The lights were positioned about 4-feet from the off-white wall. The 1st shot, the picture was taken from a foot behind the lights. The 2nd photo was taken from three feet behind the lights. Each photo appears a bit more-blue than what my eyes really see. Like I said, I had the camera in auto-mode, with no flash.
I'll let you guys figure out which one is which. As you can see, while we say the Pro has more throw, you can not really say that it's lacking in flood or spill light. It's extremely useful.
Edit #3: I always like to do runtime of multiple units, to see the differences between them. I'm not about to measure all (5) of my Proton Pro's, but here's the comparision between (2) of the units. As will all advanced lights such as the Pro, the LED as well as the circuit allows for differences in runtime/brightness. In addition, whose to say that power is consistant amongst batteries also.
Edit #4: As requested, here's an updated runtime chart that shows the comparative differences between a REV1 Proton with the new Proton Pro.
Edit #5: There are not the best shots I've ever taken, but this somewhat shows what's inside the bezel. Be warned, if you unscrew the bezel ring, it's a PITA to get back on. There's a O-Ring on the non-ring part that you must clear, by 1st pushing the bezel ring back on, then screwing.
Edit #6: I found my Sanyo 2500 NiMH cells, so I thought I'd do a test. Here's the results. I don't like the huge drop in the 1st couple of minutes. Even worse, I don't like the weight of the light with the NiMH in there. It feels like you're packin' a hunk of pipe.
Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
Edit #8: This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.
I forgot to add............ after noticing the light was off when I got home, I metered the battery. It displayed .95 volts. When attempting to re-fire the Pro with the cell, it flashed on for a second or two tops, both a dim RED and dim WHITE.
Edit #9: Here's the runtime comparison of various niMH cells.
-- Ray-O-Vac Hybrid with a starting voltage of 1.35 volts, ending voltage of .89 volts.
-- Sanyo Eneloop with a starting voltage of 1.27 volts, ending voltage of .95 volts.
-- The starting voltage of the Sanyo 2500 was never taken.
All tests were performed until the RED LED came on, indicating it was time for a battery change.
Edit #10: Here's the niMH test again, after the Hybrids and Eneloops rested for a couple hours after being fully charged.
Eneloop @ 1.43 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.08 volts after test.
Hybrid @ 1.41 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.09 volts after test.
To me, this light is fantastic. I've always loved the UI (wouldn't mind a couple tweaks specific to my needs) of the LRI product line. The beam is looks like your typical Cree-based emitter, however, there's something about this little power-house that just makes it seem different. While this light is definitely more of a thrower than the flood-type light produced by the standard Proton, the Pro's beam is extremely useful. While being a great thrower, you don't lose as much spill/flood as you'd expect.
Not only is the Proton Pro a keeper for me, it's going to be a light to replace quite a few other lights. For those wanting a very useful, small, powerful light in a 1xAA form-factor, take a look at the new LRI Proton Pro.
Edit #1: Here's the 1st runtime graph on one of my units. This shows a Ray-o-Vac alkaline vs. an Energizer E2 lithium. For each test, the light was started at full brightness.
Edit #2: Here's a beamshot, comparing a 6xNichia Proton to the new 1xCree Proton Pro. Each picture was done in auto-exposure, in a partially lit room, with both lights on high. The lights were positioned about 4-feet from the off-white wall. The 1st shot, the picture was taken from a foot behind the lights. The 2nd photo was taken from three feet behind the lights. Each photo appears a bit more-blue than what my eyes really see. Like I said, I had the camera in auto-mode, with no flash.
I'll let you guys figure out which one is which. As you can see, while we say the Pro has more throw, you can not really say that it's lacking in flood or spill light. It's extremely useful.
Edit #3: I always like to do runtime of multiple units, to see the differences between them. I'm not about to measure all (5) of my Proton Pro's, but here's the comparision between (2) of the units. As will all advanced lights such as the Pro, the LED as well as the circuit allows for differences in runtime/brightness. In addition, whose to say that power is consistant amongst batteries also.
Edit #4: As requested, here's an updated runtime chart that shows the comparative differences between a REV1 Proton with the new Proton Pro.
Edit #5: There are not the best shots I've ever taken, but this somewhat shows what's inside the bezel. Be warned, if you unscrew the bezel ring, it's a PITA to get back on. There's a O-Ring on the non-ring part that you must clear, by 1st pushing the bezel ring back on, then screwing.
Edit #6: I found my Sanyo 2500 NiMH cells, so I thought I'd do a test. Here's the results. I don't like the huge drop in the 1st couple of minutes. Even worse, I don't like the weight of the light with the NiMH in there. It feels like you're packin' a hunk of pipe.
Edit #7: While I'm waiting on the donor Sanyo Eneloop cell to arrive (thank you Paul <LED_Thrift>), I've decided to perform a wall-clock runtime test of the Pro on its lowest WHITE LED setting. This test is using a Duracell 1xAA alkaline cell. The Pro produces very useful light on it lowest setting, so I'm curious as to how long it will run. I took a baseline measurement on the light-meter, so I can get a percentage of light output drop as the test progresses.
Edit #8: This is an update to Edit #7, which will be added to post #1, as Edit #8. The test that started on 01/14 has ended today, on 01/24. I think this was a very useful test of the Pro on its lowest White LED setting, using a standard Duracell alkaline battery. Tonight, when I came home, the light was off. I know it was still on this morning at 06:00, so it must have died sometime after that. As of this morning, the light was down to about 50% brightness of the original output at the start of the test. That being said, we can say that the Pro, on a standard Duracell, will run approximately 230-hours constantly, producing very useful light. I really want to repeat this test using the RED LED on its highest setting. That test will have to wait. Right now, the Pro is running a test with the Ray-O-Vac Hybrid battery that was sent to me by LED_Thrift. After that, a test with the Eneloop will be performed. Both of these tests are being done on the highest setting, to compare with the Sanyo 2500 niMH test that I had already performed.
I forgot to add............ after noticing the light was off when I got home, I metered the battery. It displayed .95 volts. When attempting to re-fire the Pro with the cell, it flashed on for a second or two tops, both a dim RED and dim WHITE.
Edit #9: Here's the runtime comparison of various niMH cells.
-- Ray-O-Vac Hybrid with a starting voltage of 1.35 volts, ending voltage of .89 volts.
-- Sanyo Eneloop with a starting voltage of 1.27 volts, ending voltage of .95 volts.
-- The starting voltage of the Sanyo 2500 was never taken.
All tests were performed until the RED LED came on, indicating it was time for a battery change.
Edit #10: Here's the niMH test again, after the Hybrids and Eneloops rested for a couple hours after being fully charged.
Eneloop @ 1.43 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.08 volts after test.
Hybrid @ 1.41 volts after resting 2-hours after charge, 1.09 volts after test.
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