eidolen
Newly Enlightened
This mod started by attempting to open a heavily glued P3D which was a battle I lost. I ended up bending the pill section of the light while trying to get a good enough grip to unscrew it from the head. It wasn't horrible but more than I could live with so I decided to scrap the pill section and used the remaining pieces to host a Cree UV emitter I had laying around.
The emitter was purchased from the sandwich shoppe and came pre-mounted to a wafer thin board designed for the Aleph series light I believe. I had already removed it from that board and mounted it to a thicker aluminum mini Cree board for a previous host that didn't turn out to my liking. The mini board was also purchased from the shoppe.
The converter I used was an inexpensive 350mah CC device I purchased from Kai Domain. I took one of the AMC7135 chips from a second board and added it giving the ability to run at 700mah. I couldn't use the stock Fenix converter due to it's design for 2 cells and it's low battery warning feature. I already like this light alot and will probably upgrade the electronics in the future to provide regulation and at least 2 modes. The design gives plenty of wiggle room so it shouldn't be hard to upgrade in the future.
The rest of the parts were just stuff I had laying around and a 1966 copper penny. I sanded down one side far enough to solder on a piece of brass tubing that served two functions. First it allowed me to chuck the penny in my drill for easier sanding and polishing, and gave more surface area to carry away the heat. Actually it served even further as a wiring channel and a guide pin to mate to the converter pill.
There are still a few things I'd like to do to improve on the design but I must say I am really happy with the results. Appearance wise I added a GITD switch cap and reflector O-ring and had already planned on polishing the head down to bare aluminum which was the original reason in disassembling the P3D in the first place. You can see in the pictures where I did a test sanding on the head to see how difficult it would be to remove the factory coating.
Well this is my first posted mod so please be gentle.
Lapped both the penny and emitter board
Different views of the pill components
The converter board and assembled pill designed to be same size as a CR123
Grounding ring attached to pill, GITD O-Ring, another view of pill
Some comparisons for size. 1D Mag host machined by Ledaen and my NovaTac 120P
A beam shot at about 4 feet
Well I got sidetracked before finishing this post and managed to finish the polishing of the head. I used the old P3D pill section to help chuck the head in my drill for polishing. The unexpected benefit of this was that the emitter which was generously epoxied to the pill broke free perfectly. What looks like a mylar washer around the emitter is actually epoxy.
Another modification I had to make was to sand down the protruding ring on the back of the reflector as well as the body of the light where it meets the reflector. Since I was not using the Fenix pill section, the body and the head would not mate without leaving a very large gap and only grabbing a few threads. By sanding the body tube down to the top of the threads and the back of the reflector flat, the two pieces were able to mate without the slightest gap.
I think I'll swap tail caps with my P2D soon to match the GITD O-Ring.
Action shot. =P
Full Res Picture Gallery and Other Builds
Thanks for looking
Eidolen
The emitter was purchased from the sandwich shoppe and came pre-mounted to a wafer thin board designed for the Aleph series light I believe. I had already removed it from that board and mounted it to a thicker aluminum mini Cree board for a previous host that didn't turn out to my liking. The mini board was also purchased from the shoppe.
The converter I used was an inexpensive 350mah CC device I purchased from Kai Domain. I took one of the AMC7135 chips from a second board and added it giving the ability to run at 700mah. I couldn't use the stock Fenix converter due to it's design for 2 cells and it's low battery warning feature. I already like this light alot and will probably upgrade the electronics in the future to provide regulation and at least 2 modes. The design gives plenty of wiggle room so it shouldn't be hard to upgrade in the future.
The rest of the parts were just stuff I had laying around and a 1966 copper penny. I sanded down one side far enough to solder on a piece of brass tubing that served two functions. First it allowed me to chuck the penny in my drill for easier sanding and polishing, and gave more surface area to carry away the heat. Actually it served even further as a wiring channel and a guide pin to mate to the converter pill.
There are still a few things I'd like to do to improve on the design but I must say I am really happy with the results. Appearance wise I added a GITD switch cap and reflector O-ring and had already planned on polishing the head down to bare aluminum which was the original reason in disassembling the P3D in the first place. You can see in the pictures where I did a test sanding on the head to see how difficult it would be to remove the factory coating.
Well this is my first posted mod so please be gentle.
Lapped both the penny and emitter board
Different views of the pill components
The converter board and assembled pill designed to be same size as a CR123
Grounding ring attached to pill, GITD O-Ring, another view of pill
Some comparisons for size. 1D Mag host machined by Ledaen and my NovaTac 120P
A beam shot at about 4 feet
Well I got sidetracked before finishing this post and managed to finish the polishing of the head. I used the old P3D pill section to help chuck the head in my drill for polishing. The unexpected benefit of this was that the emitter which was generously epoxied to the pill broke free perfectly. What looks like a mylar washer around the emitter is actually epoxy.
Another modification I had to make was to sand down the protruding ring on the back of the reflector as well as the body of the light where it meets the reflector. Since I was not using the Fenix pill section, the body and the head would not mate without leaving a very large gap and only grabbing a few threads. By sanding the body tube down to the top of the threads and the back of the reflector flat, the two pieces were able to mate without the slightest gap.
I think I'll swap tail caps with my P2D soon to match the GITD O-Ring.
Action shot. =P
Full Res Picture Gallery and Other Builds
Thanks for looking
Eidolen
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